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The Aquarium is one of the most interesting of all places in Honolulu to visit -for you will there find that Nature has been as lavish in her gift of color under as over seas. The fish of the Sandwich Islands are of a most varied kind, and as grotesque in shape as they are varied.

It is impossible to give an adequate description of these wonders of the deep, in words alone, for they beggar in their colorings any description by the pen. The aquarium itself is situated very picturesquely in a small glade of palms, and the building is quite artistic in its architecture. It is said that there are 400 varie

ties of fish in Hawaiian waters. The color is most bewildering, and orgy is the word best befitting it. There are violent contrasts from pale pink to black, and from the brightest green to purple. Here you may see giant octopii, the star spangled banner fish, which has stars on its head and red white and blue stripes down its body. Then there is the dragon fly fish, a most peculiar inhabitant of the deep. which walks the bottom of the tanks in preference, and who is so averse to swimming that it sails through the water on outspread wings four times the size of its body. There are in this aquarium from 600 to 1000 fish on exhibition, representing approximately one hundred varieties.

The names of these fish are as curious as their coloring and shape, and to attempt to study the nomenclature in the native tongue would either bring on a the Hawaiian complete mastery of language or lock-jaw.

For instance, apart from its scientific name, we have the humuhumu nukunuku apua'a. This fish is about eight inches

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The Honolulu Post Office building

long and has four blue stripes alternating with jet black, extending from eye to eye: its fins and tail are pale blue, except the fin at the gills, which is jet black with a scarlet crescent at the base, a large jet black band extends back to the lower fin, just back of the tail. The back is brown and is divided from the black side band with a brilliant yellow band about onequarter of an inch wide. The belly is pale white, almost silver. The lips are pale yellow, and there is a suggestion of a painted blue moustache of a sickly hue. So, you see that the fish is itself as curious as its name, yet it is one of the least interesting of the specimens in the aquarium.

In "doing" Honolulu, it is necessary to take in the schools and school system, and the charm in it lies in its cosmopolitanism and its high standard of scholarship. Much of the excellence of the schools is due to the early missionaries who brought with them, whatever else they may have brought, a high ideal in the educational line. Since the American occupation, or Americanization, of the islands, the schools have prospered as never before, and it cannot be denied that the territorial legislature has provided liberally in this direction. In Honolulu there is one institution of an educational character standing head and shoulders above all others. This is the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum of Polynesian ethnology and natural history. The Princess Pauahi died in 1884, and this building was erected and the museum founded in 1889 by her husband, Mr. Charles Reed Bishop. Here is gathered the history of Hawaii and here.

one may study the Niebelungen of the South Seas. From every land under the Southern Cross, and from Hawaii, Mrs. Bishop during her lifetime had gathered an unequaled collection. Mrs. Bishop's collection of Hawaiian effects and the relics and heirlooms of the deceased kings and the aliis of ancient days came to her. by right of birth; and formed the nucleus of the collection. Since the death of his wife, Mr. Bishop has added many collections of Hawaiian and Polynesian origin, by purchase. Besides this, there have been many additions made by the Government and by private parties.

Here one may find, outside of the historical element, a varied collection of the products of Hawaii, from the earliest times to the present. Here are the beaten kapas, the mats made of grass and the idols and kahilis, the symbol of royalty, stone implements of the earlier ages,

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The Nuuanu Pali. Here Kamehameha the Great finally conquered over his enemies and drove them to destruction over the edge of the precipice

weapons, dresses and household utensils: the most beautiful helmets made of feathers, and necklaces and cloaks in the iridescent plumage of rare birds.

at Waikiki. It was on my first visit to the islands; and I had a devouring ambition to visit all of the spots mentioned by every son of adventure since the days of Captain Cook. I had become saturated by conversation, and by reading with Stevenson and Stoddard and others, and it was the things they had told me that I was living over again. At Sans Souci I sat in the same chair Stevenson had occupied, and I looked out upon the same sea from out the same tangle of wistaria. Paul Neumann was there and George Lycurgus, and they told me stories of the old monarchy and the good old early days. Neumann was a character, one of the early figures in modern Hawaiian history, and a very patriotic man. Crabbed and crusty to the stranger, he unbent most charmingly to any one he liked. Story followed story; finally "Greek George" and Neumann ran out the string and left me to the contemplation of the scenery, and, for the first time, that fascinating morning I was recording personal impressions; living again as myself, and not as the poets and adventurers who had preceded me to this care-free, tumble-down spot. Looking out upon the bay of Honolulu, I saw something I have never seen, before or since, elsewhere. By some strange freak in refraction or reflection the sea had taken on the most wonderful iridescence, and the long space of water between the beach and the reef and beyond was streaked with the most entrancI well remember one certain morning ing colors the eye of man has ever con

There is plenty of sport in Hawaii. The jockey club of Honolulu and that of Hilo are institutions, and jockey club races call for an outpouring of the entire population. Yachting is popular, and the whole people take sides in the races, the cities being practically deserted whenever a yacht race is the order of the day. Swimming is a passion, with the native, and the stranger soon falls a willing victim to the practice. Waikiki is well calculated to develop a devotion to swimming and surf board riding which soon blots out all other kinds of amusement. Lately surf board riding has been brought into prominence by an innovation in the riding of the board, while standing. This is a most difficult feat for the white man and calls for ability in balancing and many are the ludicrous attempts of the novice while trying to assume the position of the king of the deep. Indeed, it is quite difficult enough to take a position on the surf board, which much resembles the ironing board of a New England washday, and, watching your opportunity, your opportunity, take a flying leap at a white comber and rush beachward at vertiginous speed. To ride to the shore from the reef on the curling summit of an ocean billow is a most thrilling experience.




templated. It seemed an aqueous rainbow it was a violent exposition of the chromatic scale limned in the waters of the bay-deep purples and blues of varying shades, and light greens and reds and scarlets, and the whole seemed like the fantastic dream of some master painter of theatrical scenes. I was struck by it, and I suppose, just as others have, stood gazing at it in open mouthed wonder.

I heard a chuckle behind me, and I turned and found old Paul looking at me with a most quizzical expression on his face, and he addressed me in his queer dialect: "It is the golor of the water you are going to make endusiasdic remarks about. O! but you are very young and you are wondering over the thing it cost you moneys and a drip across the sea to see, when you could easily have the same effect every day in San Francisco in an ardistic pousse gafe!" I I was brought back to earth, almost as quickly as though I had been given a cold douche.

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It is only in late years that the routes of the tourist have been laid in the remote sections of the various islands of the Hawaiian group, but since the American has planted the stars and stripes on its shores Hawaii has been made known as never before to the traveling public.

In order to properly understand the significance of the Yosemite Valley or any of the well-traveled picturesque places of the mainland, there is always some historical fact attached to give added interest. We

all know that the Yosemite is named after an enormous grizzly bear who made his last stand against the Indians in the fastnesses about the celebrated falls. And so it is in Hawaii, nearly every one of the beautiful and sometimes overpowering pieces of scenery is associated with some historical fact that gives food for thought. The history of these islands is of an absorbing character, and as full of interest as the ancient legends of the Kalavala of the Norseland. The story of the Kamehamehas should be told by some one who could do it full justice, and the material is there for a tale that is as wonderful as the tales of Walhalla.

Every island has its entrancing story of bloody feud and factional warfare, and every island would furnish a theme center for a Wagnerian opera. The island of Maui is one on which was waged the fiercest battles of the Conqueror, and it was on the famed field of Pani-wai-o-Iao where was fought the great battle between the sons of the King of Maui, Kahekili, and Kamehameha the Great.

You may sit on the lanai or porch of a fine modern hotel situated right on the historical spot, and you may revel in retrospect while gazing out over green lawns and at lovely flowers. The Hotel Maui Annex is at Kapaniwai, and is connected with Wailuku by a splendid carriage road. Here you may secure a competent guide, and with saddle animals you may make the trip by a mountain road to the Iao Can


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Senator Clark, of Wyoming, is reported as having cried out, in a moment of ecstacy, that the Iao Valley was "the Yosemite of Hawaii." Senator Clark is a man not unused to the grandest mountain scenery, and yet one would think that, if in search of a simile, he might easily have found one more apt. The Iao Valley stands alone, and the comparison to the Yosemite is apt only to convey an idea to such travelers as have never seen anything else. Certainly such a comparison

does not prepare the observant tourist for the magnificence of the scenery which unfolds successively in the canyons of Iao. It is a succession of kaleidoscopic views, a succeeding vista of mountains and waterfalls that is certainly not excelled except in the Himalayas. The foliage is of a different hue, and altogether the scenery is Hawaiian, and can be compared to that in no other land.

The Needle of Iao is a sentinel rock piercing the blue of the sky, and is one of the first of the natural beauties of the valley to catch the eye. It is a lofty pyramidal cone, and in the vernacular is Kukaemoku, the Needle.

There is a legend connected with the Needle that it is perhaps not idle to relate here, as it will permit the traveler to fix his memory on Maui and the Iao Valley.

"At the base of this noble perpetual sentinel to Iao Canyons lived, a few centuries ago, a most beautiful maiden. Her figure and form was so near perfection that a Raphael or a Michael Angelo might have selected her for a model representing a Hawaiian Venus. Her name was Luahinepii (climbing old woman), a name most unsuitable to a maiden so beautifully fair. She possessed, however, a voice so unpleasant and hideous that other maidens, jealous of her unsurpassed natural beauty, made fun of her.

Luahinepepii had a lover who lived at the beach near Pankukalo. Other maidens looked upon him as a possible suitor, but like all true lovers he turned a deaf ear to their entreaties.

"The rival belles met and agreed to circulate a report in this wise: 'Ua lohe-ia ko leo kapu e ko ipo i Moe-aloha (Your sacred voice has been heard by your lover at Lover's-dream.) This soon reached the ears of Luahinepii. She felt deeply these to her most humiliating words. In her frantic moments she sought to end her life and to free herself from the cares and woes of this deceptive world. But unlike fair Dido of old, who after stabbing herself with her lover's own sword, placed herself on a funeral pyre to free her mind from the pangs of disappointment caused by a faithless sweetheart, Luahinepii scaled to the top of Kukaemoku, called Nanahoa, and from its dizzy height dashed herself headlong to the valley beneath, and

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