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ties of fish in Hawaiian waters. The color is most bewildering, and orgy is the word best befitting it. There are violent contrasts from pale pink to black, and from the brightest green to purple. Here you may see giant octopii, the star spangled banner fish, which has stars on its head and red white and blue stripes down its body. Then there is the dragon fly fish, a most peculiar inhabitant of the deep. which walks the bottom of the tanks in preference, and who is so averse to swimming that it sails through the water on outspread wings four times the size of its body. There are in this aquarium from 600 to 1000 fish on exhibition, representing approximately one hundred varieties.

The names of these fish are as curious as their coloring and shape, and to at

tempt to study the nomenclature in the R. W. Filler, General Superintendent

native tongue would either bring on a Hilo Railroad, and C. E. Ferguson, the

complete mastery of the Hawaiian Overland Monthly Commissioner, going language or lock-jaw. over the line in Mr. Filler's auto. This

For instance, apart from its scientific picture was taken on one of the big sugar

name, we have the humuhumu nukunuku plantations. Left Hilo at 10 a. m., re

a pia'a. This fish is about eight inches turning to Hilo at 6 p. m.-on rails all


the way

around the tendrils of your heart until it will walk with you and wake with you and dream with you and beckon you back to the lazy latitudes.

I have heard the "Ahi Wela” in the jungles of the Philippines, and I have come upon a lone exile of the Far East, beguiling the long hours of the sun-baked day with the songs of a

more favored tropic land.

The Aquarium is one of the most interesting of all places in Honolulu to visit —for you will there find that Nature has been as lavish in her gift of color under as over seas. The fish of the Sandwich Islands are of a most varied kind, and as grotesque in shape as they are varied.

It is impossible to give an adequate description of these wonders of the deep, in words alone, for they beggar in their colorings any description by the pen. The aquarium itself is situated very picturesquely in a small glade of palms, and the building is quite artistic in its architerture. It is said that there are 100 varie

Queen's II ospital and avenue bordered

with Royal palms and cactus

one may study the Niebelungen of the South Seas. From every land under the Southern Cross, and from Hawaii, Mrs. Bishop during her lifetime had gathered an unequaled collection.

Mrs. Bishop's collection of Hawaiian effects and the relics and heirlooms of the deceased kings and the aliis of ancient days came to her · by right of birth; and formed the nucleus of the collection. Since the death of his wife, Mr. Bishop has added many collections of Hawaiian and Polynesian origin, by purchase. Besides this, there

have been many additions made by the The Honolulu Post Office building Government and by private parties.

Here one may find, outside of the hislong and has four blue stripes alternating

ue stripes alternating torical element, a varied collection of the with jet black, extending from eye to eye: products of Hawaii, from the earliest its fins and tail are pale blue, except the times to the present. Here are the beaten fin at the gills, which is jet black with a kapas, the mats made of grass and the scarlet crescent at the base, a large jet idols and kahilis, the symbol of royalty, black band extends back to the lower fin, stone implements of the earlier ages, just back of the tail. The back is brown and is divided from the black side band with a brilliant yellow band about onequarter of an inch wide. The belly is pale white, almost silver. The lips are pale vellow, and there is a suggestion of a painted blue moustache of a sickly hue. So, you see that the fish is itself as curious as its name, yet it is one of the least interesting of the specimens in the aquarium.

In "doing" Honolulu, it is necessary to take in the schools and school system, and the charm in it lies in its cosmopolitanism and its high standard of scholarship. Much of the excellence of the schools is due to the early missionaries who brought with them, whatever else they may have brought, a high ideal in the educational line. Since the American occupation, or Americanization, of the islands, the schools have prospered as never before, and it cannot be enied that the territorial legislature has provided liberally in this direction. In Honolulu there is one institution of an educational character standing head and shoulders above all others. This is the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum of Polynesian ethnology and nat- One of the picturesque features in the ural history. The Princess Pauahi died cosmopolitan population of Hawaii is the in 1884, and this building was erected quaint groups of children of Nippon. The and the museum founded in 1889 by her Japanese are thrifty and, without them, husband, Mr. Charles Reed Bishop. Here the sugar planter would have a hard time is gathered the history of Hawaii and here

gathering his crops


The Nuuanu Pali. Here Kamehameha the Great finally conquered over his ene

mies and drove them to destruction over the edge of the precipice

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weapons, dresses and household utensils : at Waikiki. It was on my first visit to the most beautiful helmets made of the islands; and I had a devouring ambifeathers, and necklaces and cloaks in the tion to visit all of the spots mentioned by iridescent plumage of rare birds.

every son of adventure since the days of There is plenty of sport in Hawaii. The Captain Cook. I had become saturated jockey club of Honolulu and that of Hilo by conversation, and by reading with are institutions, and jockey club races call Stevenson and Stoddard and others, and for .an outpouring of the entire popula- it was the things they had told me that I tion. Yachting is popular, and the whole was living over again. At Sans Souci I people take sides in the races, the cities sat in the same chair Stevenson had ocbeing practically deserted whenever a cupied, and I looked out upon the same yacht race is the order of the day. Swim- sea from out the same tangle of wistaria. ming is a passion, with the native, and the Paul Neumann was there and George Lystranger soon falls a willing victim to curgus, and they told me stories of the old the practice. Waikiki is well calculated monarchy and the good old early days. to develop a devotion to swimming and Neumann was a character, one of the surf board riding which soon blots out early figures in modern Hawaiian history, all other kinds of amusement. Lately and a very patriotic man. Crabbed and surf board riding has been brought into crusty to the stranger, he unbent most prominence by an innovation in the rid- charmingly to any one he liked. Story ing of the board, while standing. This followed story; finally “Greek George” is a most difficult feat for the white man and Neumann ran out the string and left and calls for ability in balancing and me to the contemplation of the scenery, many are the ludicrous attempts of the and, for the first time, that fascinating novice while trying to assume the position morning I was recording personal imof the king of the deep. Indeed, it is pressions ; living again as myself, and not quite difficult enough to take a position on as the poets and adventurers who had prethe surf board, which much resembles the (eded me to this care-free, tumble-down ironing board of a New England wash- spot. Looking out upon the bay of Hoday, and, watching your opportunity. nolulu, I saw something I have never seen, take a flying leap at a white comber and before since, elsewhere. By some rush beachward at vertiginous speed. To strange freak in refraction or reflection ride to the shore from the reef on the the sea had taken on the most wonderful curling summit of an ocean billow is a iridescence, and the long space of water most thrilling experience.

between the beach and the reef and be

vond was streaked with the most entrancI well remember one certain morning ing colors the eye of man has ever con




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templated. It seemed an aqueous rain- all know that the Yosemite is named after bow: it was a violent exposition of the an enormous grizzly bear who made his chromatic scale limned in the waters of last stand against the Indians in the fastthe bay-deep purples and blues of vary- nesses about the celebrated falls. And so it ing shades, and light greens and reds and is in Hawaii, nearly every one of the beauscarlets, and the whole seemed like the tiful and sometimes overpowering pieces fantastic dream of some master painter of of scenery is associated with some historitheatrical scenes. I was struck by it, and cal fact that gives food for thought. The I suppose, just as others have, stood gaz- history of these islands is of an absorbing ing at it in open mouthed wonder. character, and as full of interest as the an

I heard a chuckle behind me, and I cient legends of the Kalavala of the Norseturned and found old Paul looking at me iand. The story of the Kamehamehas with a most quizzical expression on his should be told by some one who could do face, and he addressed me in his queer it full justice, and the material is there dialect: "It is the golor of the water you for a tale that is as wonderful as the tales are going to make endusiasdic remarks of Walhalla. about. Ö! but you are very young and Every island has its entrancing story you are wondering over the thing it cost of bloody feud and factional warfare, and you moneys and a drip across the sea to every island would furnish a theme center see, when you could easily have the same for a Wagnerian opera.

The island of effect every day in San Francisco in an Maui is one on which was waged the ardistic pousse gafe!” I was brought fiercesi battles of the Conqueror, and it back to earth, almost as quickly as though was on the famed field of Pani-wai-o-Iao I had been given a cold douche.

where was fought the great battle between

the sons of the King of Maui, Kahekili, It is only in late years that the routes and Kamehameha the Great. of the tourist have been laid in the remote You may sit on the lanai or porch of sections of the various islands of the Ha- a fine modern hotel situated right on the waiian group, but since the American has historical spot, and you may revel in retplanted the stars and stripes on its shores rospect while gazing out over green lawns Hawaii has been made known as never be- and at lovely flowers. The Hotel Maui fore to the traveling public.

Annex is at Kapaniwai, and is connected In order to properly understand the sig- with Wailuku by a splendid carriage road. nificance of the Yosemite Valley or any of Here you may secure a competent guide, the well-traveled picturesque places of the and with saddle animals you may make the mainland, there is always some historical trip by a mountain road to the lao Canfact attached to give added interest. We yons.





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does not prepare the observant tourist for the magnificence of the scenery which unfolds successively in the canyons of Iao. It is a succession of kaleidoscopic views, a succeeding vista of mountains and waterfalls that is certainly not excelled except in the Himalayas. The foliage is of a different hue, and altogether the scenery is Hawaiian, and can be compared to that in no other land.

The Needle of Iao is a sentinel rock piercing the blue of the sky, and is one of the first of the natural beauties of the valley to catch the eye. It is a lofty pyramidal cone, and in the vernacular is Kukaemoku, the Needle.

There is a legend connected with the Needle that it is perhaps not idle to relate here, as it will permit the traveler to fix his memory on Maui and the lao Valley.

“At the base of this noble perpetual sentinel to Iao Canyons lived, a few centuries ago, a most beautiful maiden. Her figure and form was so near perfection that a Raphael or a Michael Angelo might have selected her for a model representing a Hawaiian Venus. Her name was Luahinepii (climbing old woman), a name most unsuitable to a maiden so beautifully fair. She possessed, however, a voice so unpleasant and hideous that other maidens, jealous of her unsurpassed natural beauty, made fun of her.

Luahinepepii had a lover who lived at the beach near Pankukalo. Other maidens looked upon him as a possible suitor, but like all true lovers he turned a deaf ear to their entreaties.

“The rival belles met and agreed to cir

culate a report in this wise: 'Ua lohe-ia Toasting postal cards in a volcano fissure ko leo kapu e ko ipo i Moe-aloha (Your On the picturesque Volcano Road

sacred voice has been heard by your lover The Volcano House

at Lover's-dream.) This soon reached the

ears of Luahinepii. She felt deeply these Senator Clark, of Wyoming, is reported to her most humiliating words. In her as having cried out, in a moment of ec- frantic moments she sought to end her life stacy, that the lao Valley was "the Yosem- and to free herself from the cares and ite of Hawaii.” Senator Clark is a man woes of this deceptive world. But unlike not unused to the grandest mountain fair Dido of old, who after stabbing herscenery, and yet one would think that, if self with her lover's own sword, placed in search of a simile, he might easily have herself on a funeral pyre to free her mind found one more apt. The Tao Valley

Iao Valley from the pangs of disappointment caused stands alone, and the comparison to the by a faithless sweetheart, Luahinepii Yosemite is apt only to convey an idea scaled to the top of Kukaemoku, called to such travelers as have never seen any- Nanahoa, and from its dizzy height dashell thing else. Certainly such a comparison herself headlong to the valley beneath, anil

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