with a view to the picturesque, or with

PIG PURE. a desire to cater to the traveler who desires to study scenic beauties from the car "The crowning custom of the native Hawindow, it cannot be denied that a trip waiian is gastronomic. Floral reveleries, on the Oahu Railroad, for instance, is an the dance, the cresting wave and music intensely interesting experience. It is have part in his pleasures and pastimes, more than probable that, in time, every recreations and amusements, but the feast, one of the islands will be griddled by the Luau, claims the supreme interest. coast lines, belt railroads to be fed by tap It was ever so from the days when his lines to the interior.

ancestor wandered leaf-clouted along the The roads and highways of Hawaii, and sandy shores of these dream islands and especially of Oahu and the island of Ha- the custom, derived from tradition, is exwaii and Maui, are of splendid material, pressed in the mental and physical cravand seem to have been built by expert en- ings of these people. The Luau is the gineers. The census of 1908 gave 259 thing in native Hawaiian. It is the clicars imported into the islands in that max, the end, the purport of all festiviyear, thus showing that the automobile is ties. It is a part of all ceremonies, and in use pretty generally, as it is now es- on the program of all celebrations. The timated that there are nearly seven hun

Luau is the barbecue in tropical settings. dred cars in the islands, an increase of It is a feast elevated to the dignity of more than 100 per cent in one year. The ceremonial rite and most delightful. report for 1908 gave a total investment of The pig is now the victim. It was the $525,550 in automobiles, in Honolulu dog in the days of yore, not the common alone, and the report of the dealers in ac- yelping variety, but a special species, fed cessories showed over $100,000 in goods upon a special diet and fattened for such on hand for that year. The stages to occasions. With the killing of the fatted various points of interest are commodious, pur era I have nothing to do. It has and the drivers are unusually expert, passed with the days of the swan that while the supply of saddle horses seems graced the mahogany in the era of the absolutely inexhaustible. The native Ha- brimming ale mug and wassail acclaim. waiian loves, next to swimming, horse- "Now the pig is the thing, and to be back riding, and the climate is exceeding- certain it was pure pork and that I would lv inviting to the lover of equine sports not be a victim to an exceptional rever-horse and man do well. Every means sion to the custom of serving the favored of getting from place to place is afforded canine, I, in days that are gone, a guest on the islands by railroad, by stage and by at the feast, came to exercise vigilant inthe use of a saddle horse—where the road spection. The earth oven was dug to a becomes a trail.

depth of several feet, and into it was Between the islands the water transpor- piled the dried wood. The sticks were tation is in the hands of the Inter-island deftly placed so as to allow for draft and Steamship Company. This company owns escape of smoke during the burning. The 15 vessels, with a carrying capacity of pit, or oven, was lined and piled about from 52 to 300 passengers each.

The ac- with rough faced, jagged coral rock, which commodations are good, and the service is were heated to an almost crimson hue, excellent. The traveler should know that and then the pig-surely it was pork; it wireless stations connect all islands. grunted and it squealed-was led in to

The tourist will have more than one oc- execution. The deft severance of its main casion to attend a Luau or native feast, blood artery, and in a few minutes his pigbut the feast of to-day and the feast of ship's day was over. Then the servitors yesteryear is one and another thing. of the feast grasped the livid stones from

I have asked Mr. Francis Hartwell, the molten pit, and using them as scrapone of my friends, who visited the IIa- ers, ground off bristles and hair from the waiian Islands nearly eighteen years ago, hide of their victim with the deftness of to supplement my story of Hawaii for the the vereran butcher with the razor-like tourist with a description of a Luau in knife. the early 90's.

"In two minutes the natives had the skin a clear and pinky hue. That the opera- content has overtaken the land. The voltors found discomfort in the livid stones cano is still, and the heroes are gone to was displayed by the frequent plunging of their accounting. their hands into water to get relief from Another race has come forward, just the sting of the heat. Then the pig was as the conquerors have come in the past, further submitted to a polishing from from far Kahiki, Samoa. This is a race blocks of pumice stone. He was cut open of another color, and it is the follower of and thoroughly cleaned. The porker was Captain Cook and the Spanish navigators then placed upon the heated rock pyre,

and the others. And, in the succeeding over a paddy of tea leaves about an inch struggles, the Hawaiian gradually takes thick to prevent burning, and his interior the place of a philosophical onlooker—a filled with the hot stones. Potatoes and complacent observer of the agitations of fish previously prepared by wrapping in his energetic successor. The white man koa leaves were piled about the roasting invites people from the Orient and the pork, and over it all reared a mound of Occident, and truly as the poet sings, Hatea and banana leaves.

waii becomes a sort of prize for “all who More heated coral rock was piled upon would share her mother-love." that, and a dressing of earth surmounted In the song of Mr. Philip Henry Dodge, the pyre of ceremonial meats. The occa- "The First Aloha,” we have the idea in sion was a holiday of import to the family rhyme: of my host, and he had invited many to partake of his joy and bounty.

"When Hawaii lay an infant “In course of the hours the light that In its ocean mother's care, shone from every eye signaled the well- All the family of Nature baked feast was due. The native chefs

Longed that mother-love to share. arose and deftly removed the leaves and carth, releasing the savory odor of the

"Hark! the mother caught its murmur, roasted porker. The potatoes and fish

Wrapt in her sweet sea tone, were removed, and the victim placed in

Passes “Aloha” to the breezes, smoking glory on a mat of tea leaves. As

Echoed it from zone to zone. if by magic the roast was torn bone from hone, and piled in appetizing mass of convenient size for the guests to handle.

“Come ye to Hawaii's cradle, There was raw fish, the favorite relish of

Learning there the meaning sweet;

Hear the kind Aloha whispered, the nativè, the ever present poi, and from

With it one another greet. the jugs were poured copious libations of okolehau. As it was evening, the older guests partook of awa, of opiate effect,

"How it stirs the heart in home-land, and they had scarcely eaten of their share

How it draws from distant scenes! when, like the lotus votaries, were in the All the blessings one can wish thee, land where roast pork abides upon

the

That is what Aloha means.": hoof and potatoes and yams grow cooked

There was dancing by the Truly, the newcomer comes soon to love dusky belles and beaux to the thrumming the land and the people, and the very

rhythmic though melancholy air seems to be filled with the virus of strains of the race by the orchestra play- hospitality and kindliness.

And so

it ing on the ukudele.

comes to pass that they do greet one an"It was jollity and gavety, but decorous, other with Aloha, and to the Caucasian as and the pig-yea, I affirm it was-was to the brown man it has come to mean good.

the same thing. “All the blessings one

can wish thee, that is what Aloha means." After the turbulence of the first few It was Stoddard who told me of it first, years of Hawaii, in modern times, we have and then, when I experienced the unusual, an ineffable peace and a drowsiness. a long I made a mental apology to the poet who sleep and a pleasant awakening. The days lilted lays of the lazy latitudes. of war were over, and now peace and sweet Stoddard's lines :

for ready use.

of the

“I long for a palm thatch cover, Where chattering parrots hover,

I hate these dreary fields and folk, An: sigh for a South Sea lover,"

"Sleep sweetly, Hawaii, cach cloud as it

flies But brings thee a message of love from

the skies."

were written of Samoa, but they might as

And then, in the last stanza, the minwell be dedicated to Hawaii, for it is sure

strel sings: ly the land of the dolce far niente and sweet dailyings. Italy and Spain are uncouth and rough in their wooings com- "Calmly rest, with sunbeams smiling pared to the soft, languorous advances O'er the dimples of thy face, made by the Hawaiian climate in winning Clasped amid the loving waters the newcomer. The very air seems to Of thy mother's fond embrace.

caress, and the eye is pleased with the “Sleep sweetly, Hawaii, so trustful and delight of a color panorama that is un- strong; equaled the world over.

All Nature is singing thy glad cradle Again sings the poet in his "Sleep song.” sweetly, Hawaii”:

It seems as though it had always been "Robes of verdure, closely clinging a glad cradle song! As though all the

Round thy form in tender grace, family of Nature longed that mother-love Weave the beauty of thy garments,

to share." Cloth of gold and leafy face.

When the ancients left the shores of the

fabled Kahiki, in their war canoes, they total population of the mid-sea group be-
sought a land that was even fairer than ing estimated at about 165,000.
theirs, and found it; and when they About 65,000 are native and about 100,-
reached the islands of the mid-Pacific sea 000 are foreign born. There are only
they praised the Gods of the winds and about 15,000 Caucasians in the islands,
the gods of the waters in loud acclaim, and the rest of the population is composed
and they beat the great drums and sang.

of about 60,000 Japanese and a mixed
Then they sent word for more to come and race, composed of half-breed Porto Ricans,
share with them the blessings of the new Portuguese, Chinese and a few negroes. Of
land, and each race, in its conquest of the the latter, at the time of the last census,
mid-sea isles, stretches back over the eddy- there were only 233 in the whole group.
ing waters its beckoning hands and sings There is one thing that should always
Alohas to the dear ones far away, calling, be remembered about the Hawaiians.
ever calling-

They were not what might be termed un

The island of Oahu on which Honolulu civilized at any time in their history, since is situated has the largest population of known to the white man. They were, in any in the group, but Hawaii, which is by a measure, barbarians, it is true, but, even far the larger island, is a close racing sec- at the time of Captain Cook's coming, ond, and it is dependent on development they had the customs of a civilized people, whether this big and fertile island does and furthermore they at no time have not outstrip all the others in population, shown any of the signs of being a wantonly as it already does in production. There are dirty, wicked or malicious people as many now estimated to be in the neighborhood of the people of Africa and Asia. As an of 60,000 people in Oahu, and Hawaii is evidence of their goodness of character, it estimated at 50,000, while Maui has about is pointed out that their language contains 25,000 and Kauai about 20,000 souls. The no word which is the equivalent of what