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"Life is far better fun than people it must be remembered that in order to dream who fall asleep among the chimney do justice to a land one must love it, and stacks and telegraph wires.

I do love Hawaii. I found on its shores

the only unalloyed hospitality I have HY IT SHOULD be al- ever found in the wide, wide world, and

loted to me to write of departing left behind the keenest regrets

Hawaii as a tourists of a long life of globe trotting. There W Paradise is more than must, indeed, be a wonderful charm in a

I can tell, for every land, entirely apart from its people, which time that I have vis- beckons to you across the intervening ited Hawaii has been years in subtle allurement and calls to for

time of you in startling clearness in moments 'stress. Once the alarums of war were in when your mind is receptive to waves of the air, and I came on a transport as a reminiscence. Then again there must be war correspondent; at another time I was a remarkable tenacity in the love given sent to the land of Aloha as a commis- such a land when, upon recurrent visits, sioner for the Southern Pacific Company expecting to find mighty changes, not in to gather together specimens of all the 'the physical aspect of town and country magnificent hardwoods of the islands, and so much as in the people themselves, and at no time have I ever visited them as a when knowing one is to be disappointed : tourist.

that the whole picture has been spoiled, "I will never leave the sea, I think; that a jarring rift will be found in the it is only there that a Briton lives: my lute, and your imaginings and fond repoor grandfather, it is from him that I in- membrances will find no counterpart in herit the taste, I fancy, and he was round

the reality. Then imagine your joy at many islands in his day; but I; please finding no change, that Hawaii is still God, shall beat him at that before the re- Hawaii, that the American, the foreign call is sounded

interloper, has not spoiled it all. To be It was Robert Louis Stevenson who sure, there are changes, but these are spoke the words in an attempt to explain greatest where they have wrought miracles a roving disposition, and I have headed in making humans of the money-grubbing this article with another quotation from new-comers, in innoculating them with the sweet singer of the South Seas be- the virus of the isles of the Blessed which cause it seemed to fit the case particularly will never leave them and which

will well: “Life is far better fun than people haunt them wherever they may roam as a dream who fall asleep among the chimney scented wind from the gardens of Araby. stacks and the telegraph wires." In this is Where does the tourist find his desire to found the editor of the Overland roam, and where did the wander-lust Monthly's apology for selecting me to spring from originally? Was it at the write of “Å Tourist's Paradise.” Also mother's knee, when lisping tongue and lip

The sunsets of Hawaii are world famed, and the Overland Monthly photographer has caught in black and white a beautiful picture in which it is not difficult to

imagine all the delights of a sunset sky. Cocoanut Island near Hilo

first heard of tales of lands of the far- the old heathen gods and heard in the disaway, of fairies who dwelt in islands so tance born on the moonlit air the soft fair as to test the powers of imagination?. croonings of an Hawaiian woman to the Or was it later when the boy and girl mellow notes of the ukulele. It was so were at one with the Swiss Family in that still that before the singing began I mythical island so blessed with all the ne- thought I could hear my heart beat and cessities of man; did it come from read- the light of the moon shone on the queer ing of the sea and land in books by the god, perched up among the ferns and a more romantic novelists?

sort of reed grass, near the shores of a Hawaii is the epitome of these dreams lagoon. The romance of the land was of youth. It is a land of perpetual won- upon me, and while I gazed at the inder, and everywhere you turn you come scrutable and grotesque features of the upon some strange thing, some scene not effigy, I seemed to hear the war cries of known before, some subtle scent of flower, ancient heroes, the Kamehamehas of old, some strange sound so softly sweet it the Kainas, the warriors who fought and seems to you the birds had never sung bled on these shores in ancient times. I before. There are splashes of color, an iri- thought of the Great Conqueror as he descence of water never seen elsewhere, drove his enemies over the Pali and and everywhere the soft, sad note pre- brought peace to the land. dominant. It is not a sadness that jars It seemed to me that out of all this arbut which comes as part of the picture. ray of warriors, out of all the magnificence It is probably due to the sweet stillness of conflict a poet must be born; some one prevailing, to the mild winds and the man who would fashion a crashing ode in balm that is in the air. Mayhap the sad- heroic lines to tell the deeds of a wonderness is not there at all, for I have felt it ful people. As I mused, it seemed as when I have stood face to face with one of though all thought of strife had passed