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day was properly aired before starting
out,” he said. “There was a party of tour-
ists that came down on the late train last
right, intending to go back on the early
train this morning. They got up at break
of day and prowled about in the chilly
dawn; and all they saw for their pains was
a view of the lake of mist, dotted with the
island-like peaks of buttes that have their
foundation a thousand feet or more be-
!ow—a lake that filled the Canyon from
brim to brim.

“And this,” supplemented Miss Trotter, ironically, “is the brand of tourist who, returning, proclaims most vociferously that he has 'seen' the Grand Canyon of the Colorado! Oné meets this kind abroad. He lives, moves and has his being according to Cook's schedule, which allows fifteen minutes for the inspection of a cathedral, and twenty-four hours or so for the rest of Europe."

“And, sad to say, the kind one meets abroad is, usually, American," the guide smilingly asserted, as he again reined his horse into the trail.

Miss Trotter forgot to be astonished at this further evidence of the guide’s intelligence. She was now taking it quite as a matter of course. Perhaps all Western guides were like that.

Three miles of alternate climbing and The Cathedral Towers.

tobogganing—the latter, chiefly—and they

reached the floor of the Canyon, a thouBright Angel trail slipped toward the sand feet below the rim. Still following edge of the chasm. There was no pre- the trail, which ran nearly straight over monition of the sudden drop that sent the plateau that was bordered on either Miss Trotter skittering down an incline of side by buttes, they came upon a shaded forty-five degrees. She grabbed franti- spring, where the horses were glad to tarry. cally at the tail of her beast lest she should Graceful willows bent above the water slide over its ears, and gave utterance to that, gushing from the ground, flowed a little squeak of dismay. To her great away in loops and curves—a silver ribbon relief, the guide appeared not to have of a stream. heard her. She had a feeling that she did “It is only within very recent years that not wish to appear at a disadvantage be- the tourist found his way here," said Miss fore the guide.

Trotter, instructively, taking a firm hold Down, down, they followed the cork- on the saddle-horn as the burro lowered screw trail, between massive sandstone his head to drink. “Previous to that time walls that shut them in and served as a the Canyon, so far as the general public frame for the picture that was revealed is concerned, was still undiscovered." bevond. Miss Trotter's first timid fears “And yet," the guide returned with a were forgotten. She gazed in rapt won- winning smile, “haven't you a-er—sort der at the scene.

of feeling that you may, at any moment, At Cape Horn the guide called a halt. Columbus-like, make some wonderful disThe animals must rest.

covery? Yesterday I was down here, in“I am glad that you waited until the t'ending to go to the river. I came to a

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division of ways, the trail, to the right, "What,” said the guide, answering her leading to the river, the one to the left to question by asking another, “would you a range where Cliff-dwellers, years ago, instinctively look for on that threshold of built in the crannies of the wall. I took mystery? "The trail of the tourist is over the trail to the left."

it all'Europe, Mexico, America—Ah! “What did you find ?” Miss Trotter I see you understand," he finished, as Miss breathlessly inquired. Her brown eyes Trotter's face sparkled into smiles. “I did were wide and childlike in her interest; not find the sardine can and the empty her red lips were parted in breathless ex- beer bottle of the Tribe of the Wanderpectancy.

ing Foot; hence, I hailed The Tavern as

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The road to Rowe's Point, through the famed Coconino forest.


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pendicular wall of the river canyon as navigation should be found practithrown in with the walk. You see, the cable,” she said, in the “informing” way Colorado river dashes along between walls into which she occasionally lapsed, and of black granite hundreds of feet below which, pedantic in suggestion, came oddly the floor of the Canyon, threading a can- from one so young and attractive. “But yon that lies within the Canyon. The so far as we know, the early Spanish extrip would be too difficult for you.” plorers were the first to sight the mighty

He spoke as one having authority; and chasm. This was the expedition of 1540, Miss Trotter, unaccustomed as she was to which journeyed from the Moki pueblos any man's dominance, meekly subsided. northwestward

the desert, obWhen they arrived at “the division of taining a view of the Canyon, but failthe ways,” the guide unhesitatingly took ing in every attempt to descend its walls.” the trail to the left. As they neared a The guide seemed intensely interested. huge butte, they saw evidence of man's He hung on Miss Trotter's words, and she, masonry in the crevices of the sky-piled recognizing that here was fertile ground rocks that towered above the trail.

for her seeds of wisdom, proceeded : The guide picketed the animals, and “Until forty years ago, the exact course taking the saddle-bags over arm,

of the Colorado was unknown for many offered his hand to Miss Trotter. A miles, even its origin being a matter of breathless scramble of fifty feet, and they conjecture. It was difficult to approach stood on a narrow shelf where were two within a distance of two or three miles diminutive dwellings.

from its channel, while descent to the “There are other worlds to conquer," river's edge could only be hazarded at announced the guide. “Around that wide intervals, as it lay in an appalling shoulder of rock is—The Tavern. Will fissure at the foot of seemingly impossible you try the air-line? With your back to cliff terraces that led down from the borthe rock-Don't look down! Now! One, dering plateau; and to tempt its navigatwo, three-side-step!"

tion was to court death. They rounded the “shoulder," and sank “In 1869 Major J. W. Powell underdown, laughing, in front of the third, and took the exploration of the river with nine much larger house. Miss Trotter took off men and four boats, starting from Green her hat and leaned her head against the River City in Utah. The project met wall of the house. The guide emptied the with the most earnest remonstrance from saddle-bags, and arranged the lunch as those who were best acquainted with the daintily as any woman.

region, including the Indians, who main“I should like," said Miss Trotter, hesi- tained that boats could not possibly live tating between a tongue and a cress sand- in any one of a score of rapids and falls wich, and finally accepting them both, "to known to them. It was also currently bestay here at the Canyon for a week or two. lieved that for hundreds of miles the river There are the Havasupi Indian village, disappeared wholly beneath the surface the copper mine, the lime rock caves--oh, of the earth. ever so many points of interest that I must “That the idea

erroneous leave unvisited."

proved then by Major Powell and two “It would be delightful,” the young years ago by Ronald Burton, who wrote man agreed. He gazed dreamily at Miss a thrilling account of his journey—Why Trotter. Miss Trotter gazed dreamily at do you look at me like that?" the landscape, drenched in the radiance "It is beginning to dawn on me that of the sun that now was swinging west- you may have taken me for some one else,” ward.

said the young man slowly. “I didn't men"Delightful!” he repeated.

tion my name to you at first, becauseMiss Trotter crunched a cracker be- er-well, I was rather taken by surprise. tween her white little teeth.

And you didn't tell me yours, you know.” “I have just been reading how Lieuten- “I am Miss Trotter, and I'm on my ant Ives was sent out by the war depart- way to Long Beach, California, to speak ment in 1857, with instructions to explore on the Spiral in Nature before the Chauthe Colorado river as far from its mouth tauqua Assembly," said the young lady,

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