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away, and faintly came to me the ukulele's notes and the deep contralto of a woman's voice. Then, I knew why the country had never produced a poet to sing in clanging measures the song of war, for when the last battle was fought the last poet died, and since that time poetry has lived in the air, in the flowers, in the women and the men of Hawaii, and a host of the singers of the time of eld wanders forth at night and wails its dirge in every voice and every note of the ring dove. The nation sings a dirge for bygone greatness, and there is nothing left of Hawaii except the indestructible partlove.

Yet it must not be thought that all of Hawaii's charm lies in its sweet softness and its languorous climate, for it can offer some of the most magnificent scenery the world student has ever seen; it can give you a climate so varied that you may travel from the tropic shores of some tropic island to the seamed and sawtoothed edge of a great snow-capped mountain, and you may gaze into the burning cauldron of a volcano and witness scenes that suggest the very pit of the In

ferno. It's storms will give you action. enough and a-plenty, and you may find every thrill there is in nature to lure into a love of the land that will be as everlasting as the hills about you, for you will not be content with having been ensnared yourself, but will joy in passing the virus. to your friends in chaunting the praises of Hawaii.

It is a land which offers every sort of sport to the traveler, from the most civilized form of amusement to that of the most primitive races.

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The present-day globe-trotter does not go in much for much of the inconvenience that was the particular charm of the days gone by. He wants to ride in an automobile where the man of yesterday was content on the back of a pony, just as his predecessor had been content with walking. Hawaii, in all of its islands, offers some of the best roads for automobiling imaginable.

Of course you cannot go everywhere with the automobile, but the motor car in Hawaii has been provided with good roads to go anywhere a respectable

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The Aquarium is one of the show places of Honolulu. It has the finest collection

of fish to be found in any one building in the world

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imagined, and you may glut your senses on the beautiful in tropical nature, on its streets and trails and by-paths. In places, it is as civilized and quiet as Fifth avenue, New York, while but a few feet away is a trail that is wild and untamed with growth of brake and fern and strange clinging vines with wealth of flowers. You may plunge down a by-path that is overspread with creepers and vines, and you may imagine yourself in some fair Titania's bower or in the fairy grot where Auccassin found his Nicollette.

The automobile enthusiast will find the trip around the island of Oahu very inter

In Honolulu you will find all kinds of trees you know nothing about. Of course, you have a vague idea of the banyan tree, but you must reserve your adjectives until you are on this ride out toward that most wonderful of all beaches, Waikiki, for you will see one or two fine specimens of the banyan on the way, and right along the street-car track you will see the big plantations of banana, growing right in line with irrigation ditches, the monotony of which is occasionally broken by a duck pond on which float in stately majesty the mandarin duck and a variety of water fowl the thrifty Chinese have brought over

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The celebration of Washington's Birthday is made the occasion for great festivity in the islands, and at Honolulu the populace turns out en masse. Young women of Honolulu in a cavalry squad

esting indeed, and on his way he may stop in that wonderful park named after the sweet Princess Kapiolani, and so typical of its namesake. Here you find lagoons peopled with the quaintest of fishes and crossed and re-crossed by a succession of artistic bridges. There are shady nooks that seem as remote from the roadways of civilized life as the forest primeval, and there are spots so riotous in color as to baffle description. Kapiolani Park is world famed.

from the land of Confucius.

Here and there is a cocoanut grove, the majestic trees lifting their fronds in the

empyrean.

You may make the trip around the island in an automobile, but the electric cars of a very well-equipped company will carry you out to the long stretch of beach between the city and Dimond Head.

Honolulu is one of the finest hotel cities in the world, and on the way around the island the tourist will find a number of

the best caravansaries. There is the Moana, which is under the same management as the Alexander Young Hotel and the Royal Hawaiian. In another place, I will give it the mention it deserves. There are a number of other seaside hotels, and among them the Haleiwa. This is situated facing the water, and is most homelike and inviting.

The attractions of the city of Honolulu are varied, and to a stranger are most attractive. There is not one moment of ennui or dullness; for the people of Hawaii, and especially of Hilo and Honolulu, have the science of hospitality bred in

come

hardened as to be a monster of ingratitude who would not feel the blessings on the parting guest so sweetly conveyed in the leis, the flower wreaths given the departing; after a season in the island capital. Your friends and acquaintances down to the ship and present you with innumerable garlands of sweet-scented flowers, which you have placed about your neck, until you are literally smothered in fragrance and profusion of blossoms. The custom is a pretty one, for, as the ship glides away from the dock, you cast back the blooms that have been given you, back into the sea, to float to the island shores

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them, and the stranger who has any sort. of claim to gentle birth or any kind of breeding is sure of being, at all times, at home.

The city of Honolulu is the home of the celebrated Hawaiian band, and its concerts are a frequent feature of the life at the Alexander Young Hotel. Who is there that has spent any time in Honolulu who does not remember with fondness the departure from the dock. It would indeed be an ingrate, a man or woman so

and with them goes what love you may wish to spare to the people who loyally give of all they have.

The eve is dimmed with tears and the heart is full to overflowing, and all the while the band is playing the sweet and softly simple and alluring music of Hawaii. That air, it may be Like-no-a-Like or it may be Aloha Oe!, with its deep heart tones and its "O fond embrace A hoi ae au Until we meet again" will dwell forever in your memory; will wind itself

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The Royal Palms of Moanalua on the grounds of Mr. S. M. Damon. This beautiful estate is easily reached from Honolulu

and is an exquisite example of the landscape gardener's art in the tropics. It covers many acres

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