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tion concerning the local Indian tribes. Of prettiest little hemlock glade that ever gladthese things I have not room to speak here. dened poet's eye. But oh, the mosquitoes! But of one excursion made about the last of Fresh bear tracks, just before coming to July I purpose to give an account. A small halt, had inade me a little nervous, and what party, two gentleman and three ladies, left the bear tracks began these insect pests comthe Agency about noon of a warm day. Our pleted—which is saying that I abandoned conveyance was an ambulance drawn by a all attempts at repose for that night, and difour-in-hand team; though one of the gen- verted myself watching the gentlemen rolled tleman preferred riding, as would all the par- in their blankets, with their rifles beside ty have done but for the necessity of trans- them, as they alternately watched and porting provisions and bedding. After a tended fire or slept. But that all of us were dusty drive over the plain between the asleep together at some period of the night Agency and the Fort, a fine breeze relieving was proven by the deer tracks that crossed the heat, we commenced the ascent of the our camp in the morning. These curious mountains about two o'clock in the after- creatures will risk their lives to gratify their noon. Just at the base of the first hills runs inquisitiveness, and it was fortunate for them Wood River, a deep, clear, and rapid stream, that none of us detected their stolen visit coming down from the mountains. Our in our midst. drive for a large part of the afternoon ran The sun was only fairly up when we bealong the course of Annie's Creek, the prin- gan the last ascent of four miles up a sharp cipal tributary of Wood River, and a torrent mountain side. A trail blinded by frequent of the wildest and most picturesque descrip- snow banks was discovered, over which it tion. The gorge of this stream possesses was thought possible to drive the ambulance. some very interesting features for the geolo- That it was possible was proven by the fact gist, and struck an amateur like myself with that at eleven o'clock we sat in said vehicle, wonder. In many places its sides could not in its right mind, gazing on what we had have been less than six hundred feet perpen- come so far to see—the unsurpassable Cradicular, while rocks of half that height ter Lake. As we had all walked that toilshowed no stratification, and were of a light some four miles, we were glad to sit
where. But to sit there, on the top of the Along through the cool and fragrant mountains, in the clear noonday sun, with woods, within sound of this rushing torrent, snow and gay little flowers side by side we journeyed at a pleasant pace; the ascent around us, and to look upon Crater Lake, seldom being very steep upon the eastern was intensest enjoyment. The approach to slope of the Cascades, on account of the the lake is on the only side where the water general higher level of eastern Oregon. The is accessible, and where the shore is of earth, same relative distribution of trees was to be and not of rock. observed as on the western slopes, but there
The name Crater Lake conveys a very was a marked difference in size in favor of good idea of the appearance of the rugged the western forests.
chalice which holds this loveliest of lakes. The road by which we had come was one It is a great oblong vase or bowl of smooth that had been opened for the transportation perpendicular rock, with a rim varying in of freight from Jacksonville over the moun- height from fifteen hundred to three thoutains to Fort Klamath; but although this sand feet. So far as we could see, the quarwas the last of July, we found snow in ter of a mile of loose earth at the southshaded places long before we reached our west side was the only weak point in this camping place for the night, a distance of immense stone cup, which must measure about twenty-five miles from the Fort. Ar- several miles in diameter either way. Just riving late, we hastily dispatched the neces- where its rim was lowest we paused for our sary camp labors, and sought repose in the first view. And such a view! I cried out
for an artist who could paint it, but doubt if thing of the distance, from the length of there be one.
time consumed, the gathering momentum, Fifteen hundred feet below us lay a level and the number of leaps into the air a bowlsheet of the loveliest blue human eyes ever der made on striking ledges unseen by us. gazed upon : without a ripple upon its sur- A large amount of earth and rock, being disface; with exquisite reflections in its blue turbed by these descending bowlders, rushed depths of the three thousand feet of yellow- along with them, falling into the lake at the gray and gayly tinted rocky walls that rise on bottom with a sullen roar, hardly discoloring the northern side, doubling the impression of the water, thereby showing the sheer detheir magnificence. We all exclaimed, as scent into it, as well as its depth. The sun, people do under such circumstances; but too, was affecting the snowbanks within the I could not help feeling that silence was a rim, and torrents were rushing down with a more fitting expression of the emotions the terrible noise, carrying immense quantities view inspired. I have heard of persons of earth and stones into the lake, which weeping over the first sight of Yosemite. I must be made comparatively shallow on this think that at Crater Lake the feeling that side from the increase of such material in its rises most strongly within us is awe and depths. Since my visit it has been sounded gladness mingled in that proportion that in- in this neighborhood, and found to be seven spires us to say, “Let us pray!”
hundred feet. The belief is that in some To say that we saw the water would hardly portions it is very much deeper. be true.
We saw a mirror of the cloudless One interesting feature of the lake is a summer sky, intensifying its azure—reflect- distinct crater, located to one side of the ing heaven as a deep well does the stars. center, near its south-west end. It rises And yet it was not in the least dark or cone-shaped four or five hundred feet above gloomy. It was as open to sun and air as the water, and is covered with irregular the ocean itself. But it lay there in the fragments of trap rock. Out of these loose top of the mountains, smiling back to the stones at the bottom a narrow belt of spruce bending empyrean as if God himself had trees are growing. Above this belt the cone consecrated it to the presence of cherubim is bare on the outside, and hollow on the and seraphim.
inside to a depth of two hundred feet. While Having made our own new camp in a snow lies in it, pretty little pink flowers blosgrove of spruce trees a little distance from som about its edge. I may here say that the lake, we began to discuss the propriety since my visit a boat was lowered down to of undertaking a descent to the water's edge. the lake, in which a party of ladies and genThe ladies with one accord declined the at- tlemen crossed to the inferior crater, and tempt, but in the course of the afternoon took luncheon within its rim. The boat both gentlemen went down, by different was moored, and left in what was believed routes, to the narrow shelf of beach on this to be a safe place for the use of future visitside of the lake. Before and since a num- ors to the lake. ber of persons have done the same. But it For some time I thought there was no is not entirely safe, as the earth is loose and sign of life about Crater Lake, but I finalmixed with rock, and is continually sliding ly detected one or two white specks upon down under the influence of melting snows its surface, which, by the use of a good that lie in large masses in the depression of glass, I made out to be some large waterthe rim on this side. A pistol was fired off fowl. About four in the afternoon the ripple half-way down, that we might note the inter- upon the lake's surface was quite visible, and val between the smoke and the report, greenish white bubbles seemed to be comwhich was quite noticeable. Afterwards ing up to the surface in several places, bowlders were loosened and rolled down. uniting at last in a distinct white line. As This, I think, gave a better idea than any- there was no wind, we were puzzled to account for the appearance of waves. But men of renown. To them the white mist everything about this mountain lake was that creeps over its surface in the moonstrange: this no stranger than the rest. light takes the form of departed souls. To And beautiful as strange. As the sun came them, putting a hand beneath its waters is around toward its setting, I sought a spot being baptized by the influence of the Great where the rocks overhung the water, and Spirit. looked down into their deep blue shadows That night we prepared our beds of spruce
-not purple, but blue as the purest blue of boughs laid with the bowed side up to make the old masters' palettes. On this dark blue them springy; and having watched the stars mirror were the reflections in colored minia- come out above and below, and the moon ture of the spruces above my head, dimin- rise over the lake, betook ourselves to rest in ished by the distance till they looked as fine that wonder-haunted place. I very much as the finest ferns. Nothing could be more wished to remain two or three days, in order to exquisite. Nowhere that ever I have been make further explorations, but some of the is the feeling of delicate beauty so mingled party could not spare the time; therefore, with a profound awe as about the borders of at ten o'clock on the first of August, we linthis lake. It is easy to understand why no geringly bađe adieu to Crater Lake, and arIndian will go near it, except such ones as are rived at the Agency before evening, tired, by solitude, fasting, and spiritual preparation dusty, but full of satisfaction for what we fitting themselves to become “medicine had seen.
F. F. Victor,
ONE OF OUR TOURISTS: AN UNPUBLISHED EPISODE IN HER LIFE.
MR. Bell entered his home in Oak Grove, a tall woman with a pair of glasses astride upon his return from the city one afternoon her nose, followed by a less formidable-lookin June, with a very long face indeed. “What ing one, flounced down the steps of the rear do you think?” he groaned, as he cast him- car and stalked towards Mr. Bell, who had self miserably down upon a chair, “we are advanced to meet her. in for entertaining a member of the strong- “Never in my life,” she announced at minded sisterhood for two days at least.” the top of her voice, and before she had re
“A what?" demanded his daughters, turned Mr. Bell's greeting, “have I ever Nora and Elizabeth.
heard or seen
or read of such exorbitant “Her name is Pall - Mrs. Caroline Pall- car-fares ! It's an extortion—a wicked, cryCaroline E. Pall. Hunter, to whom she ing, infamous outrage! But so far as I have brought letters, came into the office to-day seen California, it's a fraud all through. How and asked me, as a special favor, to show do you do, madam? Glad to meet you, I her something of the country down here, am sure. My daughter-in-law.” and, as a matter of course, I could not re- When Mrs. Pall and the daughter-in-law fuse."
were established in the carriage to their sat“And when is she coming ?” inquired isfaction, Mrs. Bell, in order to divert her Mrs. Bell, faintly.
guest's mind from her wrongs of the S. P. “ To-morrow afternoon. Do not blame R. R., ventured to ask what kind of weather me; I could not help it."
she had left in town. Upon no more unAnd the following afternoon Mrs. Bell, fortunate subject could she possibly have protected by her husband, drove down to lighted. the station to meet the expected guest. The “Atrocious! Simply atrocious! Fog a train had barely come to a standstill before mile thick! Wind blowing a hurricane !
One of Our Tourists : An Unpublished Episode in Her Life. [March,
Of all the overrated places I ever heard of, “Did not see it, I am sure; and as for California takes-takes-”
your show place, I doubt if it is worth the “ Takes the cake,” suggested Fred, who trouble of going to see. The trip is said to had never yet been known to quail before be a very fatiguing one. I went to Monman, woman, or child.
terey the other day, another of your places Mrs. Pall adjusted her glasses, gave him a about which there is so much newspaper terrible look, and then continued, without talk, and of all the foggy, disagreeable deigning to further notice the interruption: places! It outrivaled San Francisco. The _"takes the palm. Your boasted climate, hotel does very well, but when you have indeed! The worst climate it has ever, ever said that, you have said all.” been my ill luck to find myself in. But I shall “I am afraid that you are altogether distake good care to show it up in its true appointed in your western trip,” remarked colors”—with awful meaning.
her host politely. “ You must not judge the climate of Cal- “I should say I was,” with flattering emifornia by that of San Francisco,” said Mrs. phasis, “and have been from the day I Bell, apologetically. "The city is only pleas- started until the present moment. Those ant in winter.
But surely you can find no Pullman cars alone were enough to spoil the fault with this."
pleasure of an entire trip. And when I Mrs. Pall glanced around at the sparkling gave one of the conductors a piece of my atmosphere: "No," she admitted patroniz- mind regarding the fashion in which he maningly, "this is a slight improvement. Is this aged things, he had the impertinence to ask your home? Very nice home, indeed, I am who was runnin' this thing, he or I.” sure."
Mr. Bell repressed a smile. “Pullman As they alighted, Mrs. Bell's little two-year- conductors certainly do have things pretty old girl came down the steps to meet them. much their own way; and the only thing to
“Sensible baby, in a blue checked apron," do, I am afraid, is to grin and bear it.” commented Mrs. Pall. “What's its name? “That's not my style,” replied his guest; Ethel? Good old Saxon name. And this and certainly, if first impressions are to be is your eldest daughter ?” as Nora was pre- relied upon, it was not. sented. “What a little bit of a thing, to be “I retire at ten o'clock," she continued, sure. Like the way you wear your hair, turning to Mrs. Bell, "and I am in the habit however, straight back from your face: of taking a hot bath just before doing so. I crimps and frizzes and bangs are abomina- hope you have no objections to keeping up tions in the sight of all sensible people. I the fire.” will go directly up to my room, if you please.” “None whatever," replied Mrs. Bell poWhereupon she ascended to the upper re- litely, “I will see that you have plenty of gions, escorted by Nora.
hot water." A few moments later dinner was “And at what time do you breakfast?" nounced, and Mrs. Pall once more appeared “Any time between eight and ten.” upon the scene.
“What! no regular breakfast hour? Well, “You have quite a view from the upper I shall be down at eight. Nice home," she windows,” she remarked, “but nothing to continued, as they left the dining-room;"but compare with any of ours. You have noth- I dislike these inlaid foors; they are too ing in all California, indeed, to equal the cold, particularly in such a climate." scenery about the Hudson and of western At ten o'clock the family followed Mrs. Massachusetts.”
Pall's example, and went up-stairs for the “You have not been to Yosemite, I sup- night; but about fifteen miuutes later, Mrs pose,” ventured Nora; "and the scenery of Bell burst into Nora's room with an expresthe Sierras is unique and very much ad- sion of dismay on her usually placid face. mired.”
“Nora!” she exclaimed, “what do you
think? What do you think? I forgot to litely; "but I overslept myself, and mother is tell Ah Mow to keep up the fire; and I am an invalid, and never comes down to breakafraid that there is no hot water. How fast. Father went up to the city on the could I have been so stupid ! Do go and early train.” knock at the bath-room door and find out if “But you are too young to lie in bed so everything is all right.”
late. You should get up at six o'clock.” Nora opened her door, and went down Nora shuddered and changed the subject. the hall to the bath-room, which adjoined “Will not you have one of these peaches?” Mrs. Pall's sleeping room. Just before she asked after a few moments, pushing the reaching the door, she heard the object of fruit dish toward her guest. her solicitude speak forth in strident tones: “ Thank you—no.
I have been trying to “Anna, what next am I to be called upon eat a pear, but its tastelessness beggars deto endure? There is not a drop of hot wa- scription. Your fruit may be handsomer to ter—not a drop! I shall certainly be ill to- look at than ours, but there is no comparison morrow."
otherwise." “Anna's” voice was heard on the other “I thought that the eastern fruit was side of the partition endeavoring to soothe worm-eaten occasionally,” replied Miss Bell, her mother-in-law. But to no effect. taking up the cudgels in behalf of her native
“Never did I hear of such a thing; and State—“especially your cherries and apples. when I especially requested it! This must Your strawberries, I know, are sweeter, and be a beautifully regulated house !"
also your peaches; but I am not prepared to At this point Nora rapped at the door and admit that you have any further advantage inquired guilelessly, “Are you having your over us, unless, indeed, I except our Bartlett bath?”
pears, which many consider flavorless.” “I am trying to,” in awful tones.
“O, you are a native Californian ; that is “I hope you will succeed, I am sure," re- very evident,” said Mrs. Pall, laughing good marked Miss Bell inwardly, and then returned naturedly; "and will not admit that there is to her mother without awaiting explanations. anything in your country to cavil at. But That poor lady was in despair. “Shall I go do you know that I did not have my bath and apologize?” she asked helplessly. last night? There was not a drop of hot
“Not a bit of it,” replied her Spartan water.” daughter; "go to bed, and do not get up any “No! Is it possible? What earlier than usual to-morrow, either. I will Mow have been thinking about ? But the get up to breakfast with her, and then take Chinese are so careless. It shall not hapher out for a drive. Leave her to me."
pen again, however. I will threaten to disThe next morning Nora opened her eyes charge him if he forgets it to-night.” at exactly eight o'clock. Scrambling into “O, never mind,” replied Caroline, someher clothes, she hurried down-stairs and what mollified, “I will take one to-night.” found Mrs. Pall seated at the breakfast-table “You shall, indeed,” thought Miss Bell;
"you shall be scalded if I have anything to “Well, so you are down at last!” was her do with it ”—but aloud, “Would you like to reply to Nora's "Good morning."
drive after breakfast ? " “Of all the ill-regulated households I ever “ Yes. I have come down here to see found myself in, this is the worst! The idea the country." of having no regular breakfast hour, and ly- And during the rest of the forenoon she ing in bed all day! I have been out for a was driven about, condescending to admire walk, and as I got tired of waiting for any some of the residences, ignoring others alone to appear, I took the liberty of ordering together, and denouncing others scathingly my breakfast.”
as “ginger-bread," at the same time compar"I am very sorry," replied Miss Bell, po- ing everything in general to similar objects
eating a pear.