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ceased, leaving the air purified and the of nature, with chanting winds and rushing leaves glittering in the sunshine.

waters for a choir. The floor is composed Not far from this village is an Indian of a slab that, from its proportions, might mound, where many relics have been found. have formed the roof, where, looking up, we Dozens of arrow-heads and various orna- now see the azure tints of the heavens. Far ments have been discovered, as well as hu- past the high walls, frescoed by time and man teeth, mingled with the dust. These tempest, just on the dizzy margin of the remnants of olden tribes, who have long roofless temple, stands-or stood a few years since passed into the presence of the Great ago—the skeleton of an olden mill, the wheel Spirit, are common in this portion of North of which is not only silent but gone. We Carolina.

asked the name of this sparkling stream Brevard is in Transylvania County, and is singing its wild hymn to the mighty rocks the resort of many summer tourists. The about it, but our questions were in vain--no name of Brevard, if not kept fresh in re- knew, Perhaps since our visit its membrance for the sake of the village that name has been revealed, or one has been wears it, will not be forgotten by many who bestowed upon it as a guiding mark, else have heard of the county sheriff bearing that many a pilgrim to Nature's shrines, who name. Upon one occasion a lawyer, who would gladly turn aside and enter, must had acted as counsel for a man brought to pass unawares its hidden portal. justice for some misdemeanor, failed to save Thus from Brevard to Cesar's Head in him from the penalty of six months in jail. Greenville County, South Carolina, there is Riding out a few evenings after the sentence a continued road of picturesque change, had been passed, what was his surprise to representing every phase of mountain view. meet the condemned man walking along the The roads are smooth, white, hard, and road.

broad, seldom marred by the unseemly “Why, Jim!” exclaimed the lawyer, “I presence of a rough stone; the mountain thought you were in jail.”

sides are curtained by vines, the graceful Stepping hurriedly forward, the country- branches and leaves of which are nourished man held up his finger warningly, saying: by natural cascades, that slip in silver threads “See heer, I've allers thought you was my across the gray stones to moss-rimmed basins friend. Now Sheriff Brevard, he let me out at the road side; then bubbling over, they for a night or two home, an' ef you don't say ripple away. One may readily believe that nothin' about it, nobody won't ever heer of in these dusky retreats bold robbers, not so it.”

gentlemanly as Robin Hood, had, during Not long after concluding breakfast we the war, their abode, from whence they left Brevard, the sun glowing warmly down made incursions upon their neighbors, preyon us as it did on every tree and flower. ing without mercy on their kind. Much of the beauty of this country has hith- We are told that Cesar's Head derives its erto been as unknown to the explorer and name from its supposed likeness to a wellartist as though it were bound about by the known negro of that locality. Although spell of some wicked magician. We visited this fact is somewhat opposed to the preju

our way a lovely cascade, so perfectly dices of romance, let us hope that the wooly hidden that save for guidance we should head of “Uncle” Cesar rested more easily not have known of its existence. Even the than did that of the laurel-crowned conquerfall of the water that sweeps through stony or whom the name more naturally suggests. channels into shadowy depths cannot be From many points about the Head, the view heard from without. Completely walled across the country is magnificent, seeming

, about by rocks, it is only accessible through to the naked eye continuous and illimitable. a cleft so narrow we were obliged to enter It is as though an ocean had been instantanesingly; a temple standing amid the solitudes ously petrified, with its crested waves, its heav


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ing billows, thousands upon thousands chasing On the evening of our arrival a slow and each (ther, and extending miles away, until constant rain fell, spreading a gray mist over lost in the mystery of clouds and distance. the surrounding country. The next mornFrom whatever point of view one looks over ing the mists were rolled back, and standing the mountain lands of western North Caro- on a vast rock we looked upon the valley lina, in the days of summer or autumn, one lands below, clad in deep hues of dazzling sees only grandeur softened by the loveliness green and delicate yellow. Beyond the of green vales, winding streams, and brilliant slopes lay Greenville, South Carolina, with flowers; whilst away above in the sky are slanting roofs, and many chimneys cropping wonderful pageants of fleecy, floating clouds. up from behind the trees. Farther on, ris

The hotel at Cesar’s Head was a large, ing above the horizon, we saw the historic roughly built frame house, two stories in summit of King's Mountain. Its coloring height, with walls unpapered and unplas- and rugged lines were softened to us by distered and unpainted, standing in their na- tance, as are the memories of the fatal strugtive nakedness of yellow pine. The bare gle that helped to win us independence. floors and hard beds were clean, neverthe- Looking on it, we think only of victory, less, and their very roughness had attractions and the shining crown she laid upon its for those travelers accustomed to the luxuri- heights. ous hotels of a northern climate. The gen- I but mention the Saluda Falls, worthy eral congregating hall, extending along the in themselves of a long record

and a greater portion of the house, was imperfectly long journey. Dashing perpendicularly, as lighted at night by a lamp at the end of the though from the heavens, they descend hunapartment, opposite to a huge fireplace, dreds of feet along a solid body of rock to which sent forth a ruddy glare upon the a bed of stone, from whence, foaming and numerous groups of people scattered here tumbling with deafening roar, the turbid and there, some upon the long benches at waters wind away to regions far below. We the sides of the hall, others sitting at tables visited these falls in 1877. Only two years playing cards, knitting, chatting, etc. The before, they had been discovered by a huntvaried scene was picturesque.

ing party.

Esmeralda Boyle.


I was sojourning in North Jutland, Den- dius, excepting the town park, which I well mark, and engaged one day to accompany a knew was not the wood referred to, I confamily party of picnickers to a wood presum- cluded the thriving young naaletraer were to ably not over a mile distant. Our pro- give us the shelter and shade in which our gramme was simply a short walk, an hour delicacies were to be unfolded for lunch. or two's bask in the fragrant and cooling Not so, however. Our party took a northshade of a rural grove, forest, or something erly direction, clambered up the slippery, of that nature, quite near at hand; that was mossy sides of a hill on which, overlooking all.

the surrounding landscape, stood Niels IpI could see a fine lot of young, cultivated sen's mill gleefully and defiantly swinging its firs, from ten to twelve feet in height, grow- four long arms, a straw-thatched sugarloaf ing on the sides of adjacent hills to the east body holding aloft a whirling wheel against of the ancient little town, Hjörring; and the blue dome of heaven. As we neared these, being the only group of trees open to the utilizer of the west wind, and I still public use visible within a considerable ra- looked in vain for another patch of wood,


though we were now on the most elevated or a hundred years, Rip Van Winkle like, point of that vicinity, I ventured to ask if a waiting in a state of slumber for the predictjoke were being played upon me, or should ed beautiful wood to grow around us to perwe promenade in a circular route and "take fection befitting our prospective luncheon in” the firs for luncheon on our way home? hour. We should be a hungry lot by that

The answer mystified me. I learned the time, ravenous enough to devour more in firs were not included in our programme. quantity, and something more bracing than Our goal was an oasis far superior to their that we had with us. But wait; my curiosity quarter, containing grand old oaks, glorious was soon to be satisfied. Expectancy of we old beeches to welcome a long absent na- scarcely know what very often conjures up tive, stately lindens to enthuse the poetic wild, extravagant, and wide-of-the-mark menand artistic mind, and many other hand- tal pictures. Perhaps some miracle as resome specimens of trees, shrubs, and vines gards the hasty growing of the forest awaited of mature age. I was somewhat incredulous. There was

The latter idea proved to be nearer the nothing in any direction that I could discov- right. As we neared the bush it increased in er to impede my range of vision. If my size, and soon we were standing on the brink eyes were not to be trusted in their denial of a ravine, in the bottom and on the sloping of any such place within a reasonable dis- zigzag sides of which grew in all their tance, then I felt there was danger of my boasted beauty the trees, vines, and ferns soon becoming converted to the worst of the as promised. many striking superstitious beliefs, miracu- To a wanderer in the Sierra Nevadas, or lous appearances and disappearances, and in any mountainous portion of America, mystical possibilities of that land of my there is nothing very strange about standing childhood.

above a forest-or above the clouds, for that When we turned our backs upon the mill, matter; but in Jutland, where the land is which seemed to enjoy my perplexity with very low-lying, with small undulations; where demoniacal hilarity, I launched another there is not a hill worthy the name—there is query, and learned in reply that we should something marvelously picturesque in standsoon be there.

I felt by this time like ing close up and looking down into and over openly disputing the apparently earnest as- the tops of these deep green and heavily surance of my companions, but thought bet- foliaged trees, which, though slow in growth, ter of the suggestion and held my peace. look brighter and handsomer, I think, than Suddenly a small bush loomed up a few they do in a more southerly climate. There hundred feet distant in the foreground, and are absolutely no hills, only little heatherI asked with sarcasm if that was to act the grown knolls and numerous moss-grown, part of an imaginary grove of majestic forest cone-shaped tombs of ancient heroes, as giants, waving their graceful limbs and rus- perfect as if cast in molds; but the country tling their abundant foliage over our deluded is nevertheless deceiving, in that it has many heads.

little crooked valleys and round or oval Denne busk ?" said Kirstine by my side, basins where you least expect to find them. laughing heartily; "det er toppen af et tra." I stood with a park before me of no mean

Toppen af et tra?" I repeated. “Impos- pretensions, of which one might well be igsible! How can that be the top of a tree?” norant at only a hundred feet distant to right I soliloquized, thinking the picnic party must or left. only be a dreamland fancy of the midnight With some attention and slight protection hour.

from the severe west winds, which make I shook and pinched myself, to be sure it every bush and shrub lean to the east, trees was not, and then followed, wondering if we that shed their leaves will grow almost anywere to sit in a body about this shrub fifty where in North Jutland, but the historic

woods of spontaneous growth are in that delights the human soul, and dulls the region usually found hidden from view until senses to the painful phases of life. you reach them; and a stranger, joining a By a well-worn path we descended into party of picnickers to the neighboring forest, the bowels of the earth, so to speak, and must naturally have his doubts of its exist- promenaded leisurely about in a veritable ence until “the mists have rolled away,” as Garden of Eden, to find that other parties of he stands looking down upon the Eden in family picnickers had preceded us to this deall its reality.

lightful haunt. Our luncheon was spread in From the inviting depths of the ravine due time, but as myriads of gnats claimed came the note of a cuckoo, as we stood gaz- that particular spot, we were driven up the ing beyond at the placid waters of the sea, hillside again, where we ate our melma in the few sailing vessels visible, the Hirtshals peace. Afterward we took a tour into a lighthouse dimly seen at a ten-mile range neighboring meadow, and to the top of (the air is heavier and less transparent than Kjampe-bakken (Giant-hill), in shape like a that of America's western plains and the bowl bottom side up; if not a tomb of unhigher altitudes), and the whitewashed and common size, it probably holds ancient sestraw-thatched farm buildings, and small crets and relics of some sort, as it is evidentfields crowding each other for room, with ly not a production of nature. We returned here and there a bunch of humpy little hills, home at half-past eight o'clock, while the sun and a strip of golden-hued meadow reposing yet dallied above the dividing line between in their midst. On the hills are sheep the sky and sea in the western horizon. staked out, in the meadows sleek and short- Hjörring lies to the extreme north of Jutlegged little cows, their full udders sweeping land, near the base of Skagen, an uninhabthe high grasses as they lazily move about. itable sand-bar, a horn-shaped peninsula

Denmark, as a whole, is very verdant; running far north-east, and dividing the flowers of every species, color, and tint im- waters of Skagerak on the left from Katteaginable grow here in abundance. The gat on the right. It is only six miles from floral brightness and the freshness of the Hjörring to the sea-beach in the west, and country in spring and summer baffles de- the temperature of the water is in summer scription; on the country roadways vege- delightful for bathing. The sea-beach to

table life is only trodden down in the wheel- the east lies farther away; yet it may easily track and near it on the inner side; between be imagined that, being thus located in fiftythe horses runs a strip of matted grass stud- eighth degree northern latitude, totally unded with dandelions, and on either side of sheltered from the aerial sweep of arctic them Flora's children wave defiance and lean waves, there are seasons in the year when over the brink in tantalizing spirit to brush bleak winds stalk over the land with a ventheir feet as they pass. The soil in this geance. The snow falls deep in winter, and part of Jutland is of a sandy nature, but the cold is simply Greenlandish. In historic even the hills unfit for cultivation are beauti- war-time we read of armies, cavalrymen, arful; fine rootlets so closely intertwine as to tillery, and all the equipages for battle, crossform a solid sod, a clean emerald matting, ing on the ice of the broad fjords, ever pleasant to walk or look upon. Hence, teeming with herrings, flounders, eels, crabs, though one looks in vain for a semblance of lobsters, and the like. This will give some a bluff, cliff, or mountain, the panorama set idea of Jack Frost's powers in Denmark when forth from an elevation charms the beholder, the days grow short—and they do grow reand makes him feel half vexed at nature for markably so in winter; while in June and her extraordinary prodigality; yet her nim- July there are no nights; a twilight all-suffible fingers, ever busy at her artistic work, cient for reading one's correspondence interthe harmony displayed in her coloring, the venes between the sinking of the sun at nine charm awakened with every vagrant bree 2, and its rise at three or thereabouts.

In the early summer the midnight hour over the ground as if undecided whether to acts indeed as a promoter of superstition in go or stay; while the storks, perched on chimthe most skeptical mind. From all appear- neys or the edge of their nests over the barns, ances, the sun seems trying to come up all look ghost-like, and seem monsters outlined around the horizon; the earth seems swim- against the sky. The world seems wrapped ming in a sea of light; the white-walled farm- in a pleasing sort of mystery; the air is imhouses won't stay in their places: they flutter pregnated with an unworldliness which enupward like birds, float in the air, and hover folds you in its arms, a half-willing captive.

N. Dagmar Mariager.



Aristocracy and Civil Service.

appearance, and so, in endeavoring to mainEDITOR OVERLAND:

tain the honor and dignity of his family One of the objections—the chief objection, name, to set a good example for others. the only objection-offered to the establish- When he fails to do so, he is no longer an ment in the United States of a system of aristocrat but a renegade, despised as a fool civil service similar to that of Great Britain, even by his lowest associates. He no longer is that it would tend to the creation of a furnishes an example, but a warning. “civil service aristocracy” and the encour- It is, however, the “aristocrat of office" agement of “insolence in office." The against whom the warning has been pro“American idea” looks with distrust upon claimed by the opponents of a stable civil the one, and surely every gentleman or lady service. The aristocrat of office is one must condemn the other. The possible whose experience and character cause him relation of a term of office during good be- to be retained in the public service for the havior to aristocratic tendencies and inso- common weal during his good behavior, lence of office is worth inquiring into. while administrations are built up and brok

Only the most uninformed person could en down by prestidigitators with the talisman assume-if any one does assume—that there of “political expediency.” There should be is no aristocracy in the United States to-day, no aristocrat of office who does not excel in or that any enlightened country or commu- official ability; for his tenure should be denity could exist without aristocratic inclina- termined by his record. Ambition to excel tions. We have in the United States an in any field of labor or in any walk of life aristocracy of wealth, an aristocracy of is what makes the "aristocrat”; and excelintellect--literary and scientific—an aris- lence gains him the hatred of the hoodlum.

tocracy of virtue, an aristocracy of industry The man who worms his way into office (which is particularly abhorred by the through “political expedients,” which have tramping gentry), and an almost endless for their success the prerequisite of ousting variety of aristocracies composed of those an incumbent without cause, is the man persons who are ambitious of being the best who hates "an aristocracy of office-holders.” and doing the best in their power. Pride Having no ability to learn and no inclination of ancestry has no influence in these, nor in to perform his duties, he stands in no danger many other aristocracies; but there is, also, of becoming an aristocrat. an aristocracy of birth. Yet even the hered- The “insolence of office” is a phrase itary or blooded aristocrat has his uses in which combines the cutting qualities of a any community; for his first duty to himself dagger with the crushing effects of a sandis to be honest and respectable, at least in bag. It is applied in a sweeping way

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