BY

SCIENTIFIC

THE ICE CREAM OF COMMERCE.

PROF. E. H. S. BAILEY, UNIVERSITY OF KANSAS,
LAWRENCE.

(Read before the Kan. Acad. of Science.) When we look up the literature of the subject, we find that comparatively little has been published in re

PROF. E. H. S. BAILEY..

delicacy called ice cream.

gard to ice cream, either by the Department of Agriculture at Washington or the food laboratories of the various states. This apparent neglect may, however, be due to the fact that by some ice cream has been considered as belonging to the same general class as candy or confectionery, and, therefore, they would say, that if the taste is agreeable, and no poisonous or injurious ingredients are present, no exception should be taken to the product, however much it differs from the original

It is evident, however, that the Federal Law does not consider it in this light, for after defining cream and giving a standard for cream that it shall not contain less than 18 per cent of milk fat, the following definition occurs: "Ice cream is a frozen product made from cream and sugar, with or without a natural flavoring, and contains not less than 14 per cent of milk fat." As no mention is made of the various thickening agents that are used in the trade, it is evident that a product containing gelatin, starch, gum, and similar thickening materials, can not legally be sold as "ice cream." There can be no objection, however, to making a food product of this character, provided nothing that is unwholesome is introduced, and after freezing it may be sold, but it is difficult to see how it can longer masquerade as "ice cream." It may be possible to create a demand for "Frozen Ice Cream Custard," "Compound Ice Cream," or "Gelatinized Ice Cream;" especially if these are sold at a lower price than genuine ice cream.

As cream or milk fat is the most expensive ingredient in ice cream, it is for the interest of the manufacturer not to use any more than is necessary to produce a satisfactory product. If the amount of fat is largely lessened, and a product having the same appearance and flavor is obtained by the use of gelatin or some other thickening material, the cost of production is much decreased.

If ice cream is regarded as having any food value

whatever, the substitution of gelatin for cream not only greatly decreases the cost, but at the same time it lowers the nutritive value of the product, for it is generally conceded that gelatin has a very low food value. It is no doubt true that in the trade, for some purpose, an ice cream without gelatin melts down too rapidly. If this is the case there seems to be no other way than to sell it under its real name, for certain specified purposes.

In addition to the cream, which may contain as high as 45 per cent of milk fat, the other substances used in compounding ice cream are milk, sugar, water, cooked starch, eggs and cream substitutes containing lime, etc., and various special preparations made from gums. The eggs increase the appearance of richness, and do really add to the food value. In addition to the above of course there is the usual flavoring material, such as vanilla, lemon and chocolate, or perhaps some natural fruit is added. In the latter case the per cent of milk fat would be naturally somewhat lowered, and this would be entirely legitimate, and is allowed in the Government standard.

In some states a lower standard than 14 per cent of milk fat is legal. As an ice cream made from a 30 per cent cream would not be so agreeable, and not so digestible, there is no demand for a product of this high grade, in fact it is probable that an ice cream containing 12 per cent of milk fat would be satisfactory to most persons.

Before giving the result of the analysis of samples of ice cream from this market, a word or two in regard to the methods of analysis may be pertinent. For the determination of fat, the methods outlined by Leach have in general been followed. The fat and proteids are thus precipitated by a copper sulfate solution, and caused to separate by whirling for an hour or more, in the cold, in a centrifuge. A convenient method for washing the proteids and fat in the testing bottle is to use a siphon tube, with a wisp of cotton over the end which is in the liquid. For the detection of gelatin, the mercury nitrate method of Stokes, with precipitation by the use of picric acid, has given satisfactory results. Several other methods tried were not satisfactory.

Samples of ice cream were obtained, usually through the local health officers. in eight of the cities of the The amount of gelatin was estimated approximately by the density of the precipitate, and is reported on a scale of 1 to 6, the latter number representing the maximum quantity found in any of the samples. The results are given in the accompanying table:

All the samples analyzed were flavored with vanilla, unless otherwise specified. No other preservatives except those noted were found. The average quantity of milk fat is 9.66 per cent. If the analyses are compared with the U. S. standard for ice cream it will be seen that only four are above 14 per cent of milk fat, but 35 per cent are above the standard of 12 per cent suggested.

Only a few of the samples contain starch, but gelatin and similar "fillers" seem to be universally used in this market. The range of fat from 2.7 per cent to 18.4 per cent is very great. The lowest grade will not even pass muster as "pure dairy milk." If the dealer who sells the highest grade attempts to compete with the vender who puts the lowest grade on the market, the former is at great disadvantage. Of course prices may be so adjusted that this seeming advantage disappears, but there would be a constant tendency to sell a product for more than its merits demand.

From the result of the examination of the ice cream on this market, then, it is very evident that prices should be made to correspond with the quality of the product sold, and that there should be a reform in the naming of much of the material which is sold to the public as ice cream.

A RAPID METHOD FOR THE ESTIMATION OF FAT IN THE PRESENCE OF CANE SUGAR ROBT. C. BEERS, CHIEF MILK TESTER, CITY OF CHICAGO HEALTH DEPARTMENT LABORATORY.

The increased number of samples of condensed milk and the crusade on ice cream this year brought into prominence a problem heretofore of little practical importance in the health department laboratory. Some quick accurate method of estimating the percentage of butter fat in sweetened products of milk must be found. The Babcock centrifugal method of fat determination, which with unsweetened milk and cream gives a clear sharply defined column of fat in the neck of the test bottle, gives, in the presence of even a slight amount of cane sugar, a black mass in which the fat is completely hidden. The explanation is simple. The strong sulphuric acid which is added to the sample as one step in the test chars the cane sugar, giving an insoluble mass lighter than water. This is thrown up into the neck of the bottle, together with the fat, which is also lighter than water, by the centrifugal force. when the bottles are whirled in the second step in the test. To avoid this trouble either of two principles have heretofore been used.

First, abstract the sugar and make the regular test on the residue, and second, abstract the fat and weigh directly.

Leach advised the removal of the sugar and described a method for doing it. A few trials convinced me that this was a tedious and not altogether satisfactory way.

Of the methods using the second principle, the Adams continuous extraction with ether and the Warner-Smith method with immiscible solvents were objectionable, as they were inaccurate as well as lengthy. So a method of our own devising was perfected.

Some work had been done on it a year ago, but most of the details are results of this year's experience. As now carried out the test is very simple. Nine gr. (instead of 18 as in the Babcock test) of the sample are weighed into a milk testing bottle, which is then filled almost to the neck with a mixture of equal parts of strong hydrochloric acid and glacial acetic acid. This is heated until just black, and the bottle whirled in the centrifuge with the addition of water to bring the fat within the graduations of the neck of the bottle. The resulting fat column is read from markings on the bottle. This reading doubled gives the percentage of butter fat in the original sample.

At first only 6 gr. of the sample were used, but repeated trials showed that 9 gr. gave as clear readings and had two distinct advantages. The scales and weights used for weighing the cream samples also served here, thus making extra weights unnecessary, and also any error in reading was only doubled instead of tripled, as was the case if 6 gr. were used. In weighing ice cream and almost all condensed milks. they were drawn up into the regular pipette and blown directly into the bottle until the required amount had been delivered. In a few cases with thick condensed milk, this could not be done, so the sample was weighed, dissolved in the acid in a glass beaker, the final resulting solution poured into the test tube. This added a little to the time required for the test, but seemed unavoidable.

The acid mixtures used has never been tried before, as far as I know. Hydrochloric acid alone chars the sample on heating almost as badly as sulphuric acid, and, therefore, is useless. Acetic acid alone will not dissolve the milk solids, but the mixture works perfectly. Various proportions of the two acids were tried until it as seen that equal parts of each gave the best results. The mixture is made up in quantities and used as needed. The amount for each sample need not be measured exactly. Experiments proved that the filling of the bottle as full as possible and still leaving room to shake the contents, saved time and gave good results. This means practically 17 c. c. of each acid. In this, as in all cases here hydrochloric acid is used, even with normal milk, heating must be resorted to in order to completely dissolve the proteids, but must not be continued after the sample becomes black, or charring will result.

A hot water or steam bath is the best method of applying the heat. The heated sample is then placed in the centrifuge with the regular sample and treated exactly as an ordinary milk sample, except that the fat reading is doubled. The special treatment takes about five minutes. Strong sulphuric acid may be used in place of the hydrochloric acid and all the other details. carried out just the same, except that the heating is not required. The only objection is that the action of the acid mixture on the proteids and cane sugar is not as well under control as when the hydrochloric acid is used.

In actual practice the method as described takes very little time, as other work is done while the heating is going on. When a number of special samples are run through at the same time, very quick work is.

possible. Twelve samples have been completed in half an hour.

To prove the accuracy of the test, the results of 24 ice cream samples were compared with the results on the same samples tested according to the directions given by Leach. In all cases the differences were small.

As a further proof, unsweetened milks and creams having fat contents ranging from 2 per cent to 20 per cent were tested by our method and also by the Babcock centrifuge method, and the results practically agreed.

For our purpose this gives an almost ideal test, as it is accurate and yet requires very little time, while only such chemicals as are always in the laboratory and no extra apparatus are necessary.

Domestic Food Science

con

TWO VALUABLE RECEIPES. Two English delicacies of ancient origin-good old English plum pudding and cheesecakes-are fections which have graced the plenteous board of our English neighbors on feast days in times gone by and their merits have been praised by English poets and novelists for many centuries.

That they still hold their place in the hearts of Englishmen is proven by the fact that each family guards carefully its own chosen recipes for these dainties.

We are indebted to an Englishman-Mr. C. W. Hind, who is a connoisseur in all the good old customs of his country-for a very excellent recipe for each of these old-time dishes.

We herewith print them for those who may be interested:

English Curd Cheesecakes.

Turn a good quart of new milk with a teaspoonful of rennet. Drain the curds very dry over cheesecloth. Rub into the curd 2 oz. of butter, 21⁄2 oz. finely powdered sugar, 21⁄2 oz. currants.

The grated rind of a good coarse lemon (or, if preferred not too strong, of a small lemon).

One small teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. The yolks of 2 eggs and the white of one-beaten separately; 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy. Add to other ingredients and beat well.

Line tart tins with a good short crust- -fill and bake a nice light color.

Pastry for Cheesecakes,

One and one-half pounds flour, 1⁄2 lb. lard, 1/4 lb. butter, pinch of salt, 11⁄2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder.

Curd Mixture: 2 lbs. sweet curd (made from new milk only).

Beat up 4 lb. butter, 6 oz. sifted sugar-beat up into the curds-grate on it the rind of 1 lemon, beat thoroughly 4 eggs, and mix in above; 14 lb. clean good currants; add a wineglassful of brandy or rum, mix thoroughly lemon may be omitted and essence of almonds used instead, or a flavor of ground cinnamon. May bake in old tea saucers.

English Plum Pudding.

(c. W. HIND'S OWN RECIPE.)

One-half pound stoned raisins, 1⁄2 lb. currants, 1⁄2

lb. brown sugar, 1⁄2 lb. grated stale bread, 1⁄2 lb. flour, 14 lb. mixed candied peel (citron, lemon and orange), 1⁄2 nutmeg grated, 1⁄2 teaspoonful ground spices, cinnamon, ginger, etc.; 1⁄2 teaspoonful salt. 3/4 lb. finely chopped suet, 2 or 3 eggs, 4 teacup brandy.

Mix thoroughly, using just sufficient new milk to make a not stiff mixture.

Tie up in a cloth (not too tight), boil or steam 4 hours. Serve brandy sauce or flavored cup custard (brandy).

What remains can always be reheated in a double boiler that has a little water under the plate on which the pudding-to be heated-rests.

SKIM MILK AS FOOD.

The milk which is richest in cream is not the most nutritious, for the very simple reason that a rich milk is less easily digested and absorbed than a milk in which the fat percentage is low. As far as its other constituents are concerned, a milk poor in fat is as valuable a food as a milk rich in fat. The fat percentage, the popular standard by which milk is judged, is most valuable, while the proportions of the albuminoids, sugars and salts vary but little in the different samples of milk. In other words, while the energy producing and heat giving qualities of the several kinds of milk may be great or little, the valuable proteid ingredients which go to the building up of the tissues-the prime property of any food-remain very much the same in all varieties of cows' milk.

Thus a "thin" milk is for all purposes, save for energy and heat production, as valuable a food as the so called "rich" milk. Indeed, it not infrequently happens, as the experimental breeding of young growing animals has shown, that a thin milk may prove, in the long run, more flesh forming than a rich milk, inasmuch as the former is less liable to induce gastroenteric disorders. Let us consider what this means. It means, first of all, that the enormous quantity of skim milk produced in this country could be turned to more economical use than the feeding of animals or the manufacture of "ivory" for table knives and piano keys. The despised skim milk is a valuable article of food, capable of supplying many of the wants of the organism, and, from its lightness and digestibility, peculiarly suitable to those whose digestive powers are debilitated. It means, further, that buttermilk, which can be had for the asking almost everywhere in this country, is also a valuable food for men and women, although at present utilized only to feed pigs. Surely if he is esteemed the greatest benefactor to the race who can grow two grains of corn where only one grew before, in like manner honor should be paid him who rescues a waste product and transforms it into a valued article of a nation's diet.

TROUBLES LURKING IN CUP OF TEA.

One hears a great deal about the alcohol and opium habits and various other drug addictions, says a physician, but rarely does one hear a word concerning a very common and, in many cases, very injurious habit-namely, the tea habit.

This habit is much more common in England, Russia and China than in the United States, but one would hardly say that it is uncommon here.

The stimulating effect of tea is due to an alkaloid identical with the caffeine found in coffee. This principle is a valuable medicinal agent, but, taken habitually, exerting as it does a powerful stimulating effect upon the heart and nervous system, it is a very serious matter. Some persons drink tea a long time without suffering any inconvenience; others gradually develop a train of symptoms which begin with loss of appetite, dyspepsia and various stomach derangements, followed by nervous palpitation of the heart, insomnia, dreams, broken sleep, incapacity for mental work,

neuralgia and various organic ailments. Fatigue follows the slightest effort. The complexion assumes a pasty gray color, the body becomes thin and emaciated, and approaching decrepitude is suggested by the appearance and every action of the victim.

Of course, it does not follow that every one who drinks tea, even liberally, will suffer like this, but it is well for everyone to know what may happen.

"RICE TOO HIGH PRICED."

The millers are combining to make rice cheaper and the growers are forming an association to make it dearer. The consumer's sympathies are with the millers. Rice has not become a staple food on every man's table at every meal, as it should, for the reason that the prices are too high, as compared with the prices of other cereals.

Such men as Dr. S. A. Knapp and Prof. Galloway of the United States Agricultural Department, both of whom have looked into the rice industry and whose investigations have been far-reaching, have expressed themselves, saying that rice will have to become cheaper: that the industry will never reach the place it should in this country until the cereal is placed within the reach of every man. For instance, the Japanese consume about 400 pounds of rice per capita. In America the per capita is something like five or six pounds. Should the per capita be raised to forty pounds annually it would require every acre of rice. land in the country to supply the demand. There could not possibly be such a thing as overproduction.

The people will not eat rice unless it is placed within their reach. It is a luxury at the present time, when it should be one of the necessities. It will be considered a luxury so long as prices remain at the present figures.

Cut down the price and the consumption will be many times the present insignificant amount per capita.

"DENATURIZED TEA."

Seven thousand pounds of tea were damaged by salt water when the steamer Mongolia stranded at Midway Island, off the coast of California. There is a law which requires tea below standard to be either destroyed or exported. It has been discovered, however, that the tea may be profitably used in tanning hides, and the Treasury Department has granted a request that it be used in this way instead of destroying it, it being provided that the tea be so treated as to destroy its efficacy as a beverage.

The tea if it had arrived in good condition would have been worth about 22 cents per pound, or $15,400 for the lot. The tanners will pay between $10,000 and $11,000 for the adulterated tea.

THE AMERICAN FOOD JOURNAL, for the purpose of increasing the number of its readers in domestic circles, makes the following liberal offer: On the receipt of $4.00 we will send THE AMERICAN FOOD JOURNAL for one year and a beautiful 42-piece set of dishes with any initial desired burnt in gold on every piece. This beautiful set of decorated dishes cannot be duplicated in exclusive crockery stores for much less than $10.00, and in most cities is not obtainable at any price. Dishes are shipped direct from the factory, freight paid by party to whom goods are consigned. Take advantage of this unprecedented offer.

FOOD REGULATIONS IN GERMANY. "After I had finished my beer, still feeling thirsty, I called for some fruit," said the tourist. "But the waiter shook his head.

You won't get fruit and beer together in Berlin, Herr,' he said.

"Why not?' said I.

"It is against the law, Herr,' the waiter replied. There is a law here in Germany that no one is to be served beer and fruit together. If a restaurateur breaks this law he loses his license.

"It is a good law,' the waiter added. 'It is based on good sound sense. Beer and fruit don't mix. They are bad for the stomach. Sometimes they cause death.

"Since that time,' the tourist ended, 'I have never mixed beer and fruit. It is a strange idea, isn't it, to have food laws like that? Suppose President Roosevelt should pass a law forbidding the eating at the same meal of ice cream and lobster, or mince pie and plum pudding. What a howl would go up, eh?"-Hotel Gazette, New York.

SUCCESS OF SAXONY'S PURE FOOD LAWS

United States Consul Hurst, at Plauen, Germany, has furnished some interesting information about the efforts of the Saxon Government to secure pure food for its people. The Kingdom of Saxony has about the population of the state of Ohio. Five years ago it was decreed that at least thirty samples of food, beverages, or utensils should be inspected for every thousand inhabitants every year. This work is done by two state institutions, three municipal inspection laboratories and fourteen subordinate laboratories, all under the control of the royal government. In the year 1904 there were 115,480 analyses, of which many were made at the request of storekeepers who wished to know the quality of the goods they were selling.

It is found that the inspection system is gradually driving impure foods out of the markets. The policy of the government has been to be conciliatory, and to lead rather than drive the makers and sellers of food products. The result, according to Consul Hurst, is that the inspection system "has not only gained the confidence of the consuming public, but apparently that of manufacturers and merchants. The laboratories are accordingly looked upon by all classes as an unqualified boon."

In several cases butchers to whom new preservatives were offered took them to the laboratories, and upon finding that they were injurious declined of their own accord to use them. The favorite adulterant for sausage was found to be meal or bread. Only one sample was found to be artificially dyed, but several were spoiled. Butter often had too much water, sometimes reaching nearly a third of its weight, and occasionally too much salt. Oleomargarine was often sold for pure butter. Olive oil frequently contained cheaper oils, and fruit jams were found with glucose, grape skins and dyes. One manufacturer made "pure plum jam" of beets, but stopped when it was pointed out to him that this was not entirely consistent with the pure food laws. Tea and coffee were not adulterated, although chicory was sold as a substitute for coffee. Wine was almost entirely pure, but cognac, rum and cordials often had chemical treatment.

The Saxon dealers and manufacturers do not meet the laws in a spirit of opposition. "Most dealers," says the consul, "are not only contented with the supervision, but apparently grateful for the information. given."

Read our Premium offer on opposite column.

DR. WILEY SUPPORTS HIS VIEWS. Chicago's famous $25,000.00 cartoon artist McCutcheon recently caricaturized the President dispatching moral messages to Congress by showing an army of officers running at topmost speed between the White House to the Capitol, each with a message to Congress, and an equal number, hatless and breathless, running in the opposite direction for more messages.

President Roosevelt says that in the matter of writing multitudinous public documents he has reformed. and events indicate that it was no New Year's resolution and he meant it. The example, however, seems to have been lost on Dr. Wiley, who is not perfectly happy without one bulletin in the mailing room and another on the press.

The latest (9:30 a. m., Saturday morning) is one on "Foreign Trade Practices in the Manufacture and Exportation of Alcoholic Beverages and Canned Goods," being the result of an investigation made during and returning from the annual meeting of the Society of Chemical Industry in London.

The

The ostensible reason for the inspection was that it would aid in the adoption of just and effective standards for imported goods. The real reason for the publication of this bulletin is to cull out and propagate at public expense certain facts and fancies which might help to sustain a pre-asserted opinion. facts regarding the manufacture of wines and brandies in the various foreign countries have been very fully given by our consuls in France, Germany and other countries and published in the consular reports issued by the Department of State. Probably our representatives in Great Britain have been equally efficient in reporting information concerning the manufacture of whisky. The State Department, however, was not pulling Dr. Wiley's chestnuts out of the fire and so he devised a method of extracting them himself. Among the sensational statements credited to him last year was one to the effect that 85 per cent of the whisky sold in the country was adulterated. In the hearings on the Food Bill he caused considerable amusement by trying to manufacture with dope different kinds of whisky, which, however, the Congressman who sampled them could not recommend. While he has constantly opposed the contentions of the blenders that their goods are entitled to be called whisky

and has partially won the Secretary of Agriculture and of course his standard committee to his views, the path to the attainment of his wishes has not in all places been strewn with flowers. At this time he doubtless feels that a commendation from himself to himself would be particularly opportune, so he devises the happy thought of publishing bulletin No. 102.

It may be remembered that during the last session of Congress when the Food and Drugs Act was under consideration Dr. Wiley in denying the right of blends to the term "whisky," referred to an English trial in which a publican had been cited to appear in court for selling a bottle of whisky which was not of the character, quality and kind demanded and said that he held a telegram in his hand which read "Whisky Defendants Convicted."

Mr. Mann asked: "Did you not see the account in the newspapers?"

"Yes," Dr. Wiley said, "this morning, but this came yesterday."

He also referred to the magistrate as saying in reply to testimony to the effect that blends were purer than so called "straight" whisky. "Well, perhaps this is true. If so, why not say this is a blended whisky— because then you will get the trade."

Mr. Ryan, a member of the committee, said: "But this was not the question at issue in this case was it?" Dr. Wiley said: "That was the question at issue." The newspapers of Washington and Associated Press dispatches from Washington to all parts of the country heralded the decision as one against the sale of blended whisky as whisky while the real question was whether blends were entitled to be called Scotch or Irish whisky. This misrepresentation and its source. was exposed in the AMERICAN FOOD JOURNAL at the time.

The true facts were later forced to be admitted by Dr. Wiley.

It scarcely looks as if any further comfort could be extracted from this decision, which has now been appealed to a higher tribunal of Great Britain.

In bulletin No. 102 descriptions of the manufacture of Scotch and Irish whiskies, English trade regulations, definitions, etc., together with a full text of the decision above referred to are introduced to support one opinion or conclusion, stated hereinafter.

Official (British) definitions are given for "spirits," "foreign spirits." "British spirits," "plain spirits,' "spirits of wine," "compounded spirits," "liquors and tinctures." "sweetened spirits," "obscuration." "vatting," "blending," "mixing" and "filling." Then follows the comment: "In the light of the above definitions it does not appear that the mixing of malt whisky, such as that described at first, with grain spirits can be justly called 'blending.' The two spirits are entirely of a different class and therefore the word 'blend' does not correctly designate the resulting product." It is interesting in this connection that neither "malt spirits" nor "grain spirits" are defined in the official definitions, however, that may only be an oversight on the part of the British officials.

Story tellers are always given plenty of latitude in introducing their varns. Speaking of dogs may remind one of angels and a thrilling account of a marine accident to the killing of game on the western frontier. Such poetical license should be allowed Dr. Wiley. One word in the opinion is officially defined. "Blending" is defined as putting together wines or spirits of similar sorts.

The question is what are