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still go to New York to be distributed to the button makers of England, France and Germany; the buttons coming back to be worn on this coast where they should be manufactured.

The one gem probably that rivals the pearl in the affections of ladies fair is the diamond. They are not yet counted as one of the resources of the State, yet the fact that they have been really found here is pointed to with pride. In fact over 200 genuine diamonds have been found in this State that weighed from 0.5 to over 7 carats each. In 1853 Mr. Lyman, a New England clergyman found the first authentic diamond "about as big as a pea," in a placer mine in the Cherokee district in Butte county. The Bidwell diamond, found in 1861 at Yankee Hill, weighed 1.5 carats when cut; and the William Bradreth diamond, found in 1867, weighed nearly as much when cut, and was a fine white stone. In the same year, Professor Silliman found one at Forest Hill, Placer County, of over a carat. In 1871 W. A. Goodyear found over 15 diamonds in the ancient river channel three miles east of Placerville, in El Dorado County. Diamonds have also been found in Trinity, Amador and Siskiyou Counties. The records of the identification of these gems exists in the proceedings of many academies of sciences at home and abroad, so that there is no doubt about the genuineness of the finds. The white gem that like gold has defied for ages the best efforts of

alchemist and chemist is too rare and valuable for any reported find to escape thorough investigation. The diamonds found in this State have all come from the channels of ancient river beds, and like the gravels in which they are found they are far away from their original home. The diamonds are associated with zircons, topaz, rutile and other gems that accompany them in their native homes; and it is noticed also that they are found in the vicinity of serpentine masses, and not far distant from areas of volcanic vents. The remarkable itacolumite rock, which is popularly associated with diamonds, is found in a number of places in the State; but the diamonds already found here are much older geologically than their South African relatives.

So far the list of gems and jewelers' material known to exist in this State embraces over 60 groups and 200 varieties, and this list can no doubt be increased by careful investigation. California was first known as the gold State, then oranges and agriculture were added. It has already become famous for its copper, oil, borax, etc., and it evidently proposes to deck its wreath of honor with gems, for it produced in 1901 the following: Quartz crystal, $17,500; tourmaline, $20,000; turquoise, $20,000; gold quartz, $100,000; pearl, $50,000; and other jewelers' material to the amount of $10,000; or a total of $217,500 for the year-certainly not a bad beginning.

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The California Historical Landmark League.

OFFICERS

President, JOS. R. KNOWLAND; First Vice-President, SAMUEL W. HOLLA. DAY; Second Vice-President, MRS. GEORGE LAW SMITH; Corresponding Secretary, MRS. LAURA BRIDE POWERS, 421 Larkin St.; Assistant Secretary, MRS. J. J. DONNELLY; Financial Secretary, JAMES A. DEVOTO; Treasurer, HENRY S. MARTIN.

BOARD OF DIRECTORS-Joseph R. Knowland, Mrs. Florence Matheson, Jas. D. Whalen, Mrs. Laura Bride Powers, Wm. J. McGibben, Mrs. Louise Shepheard Chase, Miss Eliza D. Keith, A. L. Mann, Mrs. Alice Morse, Wm. B. Latham, J. J. Lermen.

ADVISORY BOARD-Dr. David Starr Jordan, Dr. Eli McClish, Edwin Deakin, Loring P. Rixford, Julius Kahn, Dr. Benjamin Ide Wheeler, A. Altmann, Will D. Shea, Dr. Philip Mills Jones, James L. Gallagher, Rev. Robert E. Kenna, S. J., Charles Rollo Peters, Newton J. Tharp, James D. Phelan, Lewis F. Byington. Officers receive no remuneration. The Advisory Board, consisting of fifteen members (three of whom are artists, three architects, four from the leading educational institutions of the State, and the remaining five from the body of the League), will pass finally upon all plans for restoration and upon all designs for proposed monuments.

The California Historical Landmarks League was incorporated June 25, 1902, with headquarters in San Francisco, for the following purposes, briefly stated: To preserve the historic landmarks of the State-notably the old Missions; to place in appropriate places memorial tablets commemorative of historic places and events; to encourage historic research, and to use all proper means to establish a chair of California history in the University of California.

In answer to an invitation issued by the writer on May 21st, individual members or authorized committees-in some instances both-from the following organizations met in Balboa Hall, N. S. G. W. Building, for the purpose of the effecting an organization for the conservation of the State's Landmarks: Society of California Pioneers, Pioneer Women, Daughters of California Pioneers, Young Men's Institute, Women's Press Associadon, N. S. G. W., N. D. G. W., Teachers' Club, Sons of Exempt Firemen and the California Club.

That the call came at a time when

sentiment was ripe was abundantly manifested by the thoughtful and thoroughly-in-earnest audience that came together on that date. The usual preliminaries of organization need not now be entered into. Suffice it to say that in spite of the exodus from town during the vacation period that followed, and the difficulty of reaching the public's head and heart (and incidentally its purse) when the sea and mountain called, we are to-day a well-grown body, full of the vigor and buoyancy of youth, girded for the tasks before us, and with a very respectable bank account to make our work possible. Through the generosity and noble impulse of the Joint Committee of 1900, N. S. G. W., $1,100 was turned over to the League on September 13th for such work as the new organization shall determine. Besides this, we have upon our rolls 120 members ($1 per year), and three life memberships ($25 each), two accredited to Mrs. Abbey M. Parrott, and one to the Rt. Rev. George Montgomery, Bishop of Los Angeles, who, too, has agreed to

grant a ten-years' lease to the League of the famous old Mission of San Antonio de Padua in Monterey County, whose restoration-re-roofing, at leastis one of the first tasks outlined by the new organization. The placing of a memorial tablet upon "Old Fort Gunnybags," the headquarters of the Vigilantes of '56, is also well under way, and a design is now being prepared by Mr. Newton J. Tharp for the historic old spot. Now, as to our name. It has come to our notice that the League has been accused of a gross impropriety in using the word "Landmark" in its official title. The facts of the case are these. About six years ago an organization was formed in Los Angeles for the laudable purpose of conserving the landmarks of the State-the old Missions especially -and was called the Landmarks Club of Southern California. Now, mark that descriptive phrase "of Southern California." The sole territory to which the Club would confine its operations was below the Tehachapi. What became of the landmarks of the rest of the State above the Pass? Well, they could go to destruction.

Now, an organization is formed styling itself "The California Historic Landmarks League," for the purpose of conserving historic sites and buildings wherever they exist-barring, of course, the eminent domain of Southern California, which is already being well cared for by the older body.

That the public might know what the League is working for, we introduce the

word "landmark" into our title, and for doing so are accused of want of honor and discrimination, and blamed of other impolite and inelegant things by the old club. That there is no synonym for "landmark" in the English language is not the fault of the League-we weren't responsible for that omission. Had Noah Webster known that the word he gave us to designate such meaning would one day become the sole property of some privileged person or persons, we are sure he would have hunted up a synonym for us, and saved us from the charge of dishonor. However, the United States courts are the steadfast defenders of the League, for their decisions have been rendered thus: "No word may become a trademark (private property) unless it be fictitious, or in other words, invented for purposes of trade." Now, we dispute that the worthy club of the Southland "invented” the word "landmarks," and that it is fictitious; it is purely descriptive, and can be honorably used by ten thousand clubs.

Moreover, what awful result can come from the alleged confusion? Suppose the League receives a dollar meant for the club, what matters it since it is all for the same unselfish end and for the honor of California?

Long may the old club and the new League live. There is room and work for both. Let them work together, then, in peace and mutual encouragement and without "knocking." But is that within the possibility of us Californians?

LAURA BRIDE POWERS.

HISTORY AND HYGIENE OF LINEN.

BY HARRY C. O'NEILL.

B

1. its History.

ACK in the City of Thebes, once called the Egyptian Taape, the remnant of the Invading Arab glides from his hut, out over the ruins of the ancient houses, and leads you to many and varied antiquities. But this child of Fellaheen can astonish the general man, if persuasion be strong and the fee sufficient to procure from some of the tombs pieces of washable linen, woven at least three thousand years ago. Although this is as old as he may be able to find, capable of standing washing, yet there remains pieces of the fabric made in the time of Annos or Onnos in the 5th dynasty or about 3,400 years B. C. These are the care cloths with which the mummies are wrapped, and when originally used, were dipped in oil and bitumen and prepared according to the secrets which give to olden times the prestige in embalming. And here your Arab friend would probably drop his voice and mysteriously tell you of the faith of these Children of the Past, of the transmigration of the soul and of their belief that the body must be wrapped in linen to cleanse it when the subject should be called to the Court of the Sun.

How far back this recognition of the cleanliness of linen extended we are unable to say, for the origin and invention of it is hidden in the dim, hazy existence of the earlier world, out of which it has come with man, serving for him, as it were, an outer skin for the protection from the elements in health and as soothing bandages when the body was sick and sore.

The Bible and the Talmud both refer frequently to the use of linen and we find it in the garments of the priests of the Palestine Temples. Moses commanded the priests to use linen, and

many authorities maintain that linen threads comprise the famous cloth with which Veronica wiped the sweat from the brow of Christ on His way to the

cross.

The

In those halcyon days of the race everybody wore linen. After the primitive fig leaf and the skins of animals, linen was almost the universal garment of the race for many generations. Bible is full of allusions to flax and linen, and as early as the exodus, where we find Aaron and his sons set apart and dedicated to the priesthood, their costumes and paraphernalia are described minutely, and among other things the costumers are commanded to make holy garments for glory and for beauty, of gold and blue and purple and scarlet and fine linen. The ephod should be of fine twined linen, with cunning work, and the curious girdle was to be of the same. Those were to be an embroidered coat of fine linen, and the priests were to have linen breeches to cover their nakedness.

In Leviticus we are told that the priest shall put on his linen garment and his linen breeches. Ezekiel xliv, 17-18, reads: "They shall be clothed with linen garments and no wool shall come upon them... they shall not gird themselves with anything that causes sweat."

Samuel ministered before the Lord in linen, and he tells us that on a certain day Doeg "slew fourscore and five persons that did not wear a linen ephod," and St. John says he saw seven angels coming out of the temple clothed in pure white linen.

Until the dark ages, the use of linen was apace with civilization, but in these trying times of the Learned World, it seems as if its scarcity increased its value too much for common use. It was however, preserved through this period

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