lengths. You have also a screw on the top of your work-bench, which, when your board is laid against it, will help to hold it in place while planing its surfaces. Although your tools may be kept in the compartment beneath the work-bench, we have found it advisable to have a separate toolchest for each boy's tools.

As shown in the illustration on page 342, a variety of boxes were used for our tool-chests. Here the boys were allowed to express their individuality, and each chest was made in a different way from the others. Good, firm boxes were selected and the covers removed. A shelf was placed

the inside, fastened three inches from the top and bottom; otherwise, a new cover was made from parts of another box. These were hinged to the open side with two three-inch hinges, or butts. A door-knob, or hasp and padlock, completes a simple but satisfactory tool-chest until you are able to use your tools sufficiently well to make a better one. All sorts of ingenious devices were thought out by our boys for the keeping of the yardsticks, which were, as you see, longer than the boxes.

With work-benches and tool-chests such as I have described, we furnished our workshop.

making all sorts of things; in fact, no two articles are just alike, for I always encourage every boy to exercise his inventive power and not to be a "copy-cat" Joseph is working hard on a sewingstand for Mother; Charles on a cabinet for Mother's spices; George on a clock-case for Father's office, and Jimmie is beginning a cradle for a new little sister.

Many of the boys have baby brothers and sisters, so most of these articles of furniture are being made for them, as they are to have a "Baby Exhibit," not of live babies, but of little chairs, cribs, tables, and swings for live babies. Every nail was carefully set and all holes filled with putty. Each article was then well sandpapered and given two coats of white paint, with an additional coat of white enamel.

The exhibition room was papered and painted, and got into perfect shape. It was great fun wetting with a big sponge the old paper on the walls, carefully scraping it off, and then washing the old whitewash off the ceiling. But it was not so much

our memorable first exhibition. There were many happy hearts that day when the fathers and mothers flocked to see the new furniture. Babies were placed in the little cribs, and little sisters and brothers tried the chairs to see if they "fitted," while the "door-swings" were in constant use. All found it hard to believe that such attractive furniture could have come from discarded boxes. But the most exciting time was when, at the close of the wonderful exhibition, the boys set out for their homes laden with gifts for the family which they had made with their own hands.

Now, when Grandpa or Grandma, uncles and aunties come to visit the home, this furniture is shown them with great pride. And many a Morris chair, made by the children, placed in a sunny window, has become Grandma's favorite seat.

ON the following page are given full directions for making two simple pieces, selected from the book "Box Furniture."

A DESK CHAIR

THE seat is formed of a box with a hinged cover. Midway of the depth inside is a sliding shelf upon two cleats extending the length of the box, giving space for large paper sheets, etc. REQUIREMENTS:

Body: condensed-milk box (about 74 in. deep, 13 in. wide, 1934 in. long).

Cover: 1 piece 5% in. thick, 11⁄2 in. wide, length equal

to side length of the box. I piece 5 in. thick, width 11⁄2 in. less than the width of the box, length equal to the outside length of the box.

Shelf: 1 piece 1⁄2 in. thick, width equal to one half the inside length of the box, and length equal to the inside width of the box.

Cleats: 2 pieces 1⁄2 in. thick, 11⁄2 in. wide, length equal to the inside length of the box.

Legs: 4 strips 1⁄2 in. thick, 11⁄2 in. wide, 27 in. long. 4 strips 1⁄2 in. thick, 2 in. wide, 27 in. long. Arms: 2 strips 1⁄2 in. thick, 21⁄2 in. wide, 16 in. long. Back-bar: 2 strips 1⁄2 in. thick, 21⁄2 in. wide, 2134 in. long.

Hardware: 2 134 in. brass butts.

CONSTRUCTION: Make the legs 27 inches long. Remove the cover. Nail the shelf cleats on the inside sides of the box, keeping the top of the cleats 3 inches from the bottom. Fit the shelf so as to slide readily upon the cleats. Bore a hole 34 inch in diameter, 3/4 of an inch from the edge at the center; insert the finger in this hole to move the shelf. Nail the narrow cover strip along the side on top, keeping its outside edge even with the outside edge of the box. Turn the box on its side and nail on the legs, allowing them

Body: 3 boxes (10 in. deep, 12 in. wide, 31 in. long). Legs: 4 strips 1⁄2 in. thick, 11⁄2 in. wide, 5 in. longer than three times the outside width of the box. 4 strips 1⁄2 in. thick, 2 in. wide, 5 in. longer than three times the outside width of the box.

Top: 1 piece 5% in. thick, 3 in. wider than the outside depth of the box with the cover removed, and 3 in. longer than the outside length of the box. Facing Strips: 6 strips 1⁄2 in. thick, 2 in. wide, about 7 in. long.

CONSTRUCTION: Make the legs 5 inches longer than three times the outside width of the box. Remove the covers. Turn one box on its side and remove the upper side. Do the same with the second box. Place the second box on its side upon the open side of the first box, keeping the open side of the second box at the top. Upon this open side of the second box place the third box, keeping all the cover openings facing the same way. Fasten the three boxes together by nailing two strips placed vertically across the bottoms about 2 feet apart, to hold them together while the legs are put on. Turn all three boxes

THE DESK CHAIR.

THE BOOKCASE.

to project 10 inches above the top of the box with the seat cover on. Stand the chair upon its legs, right side up. Nail the arms to the top of the legs, allowing their ends to project 2 inches over the face of the legs in front, and their outside edges to project 1⁄2 inch over the outside face of leg on the sides, the rear end of arm being

on their backs and nail on the legs, keeping their upper ends even with the top side of the last box added. Turn the stand upon its legs and nail on the top, allowing its edges to project I inch over the outside face of the legs all around. Put on the facing strips at the ends, and remove the temporary strips from the back of the stand.