CHAPTER II.

OMMENCING our tour of the city at Hyde Park, one of the great lungs which connect the arteries of this "mighty heart of England," we catch a glimpse of London to the best advantage.

It is the largest of the parks of London, measuring three hundred and eighty-seven acres, and having seven beautiful gates. The manor of Hyde Park in early times belonged to the Abbey of Westminster; at the period of the Reformation, however, it became the property of the Crown. It is the place of rendezvous and fashionable promenade of the aristocracy. From three to five o'clock in the afternoon, throngs of splendid equipages "blockade its various avenues, and on Sundays the display of fashion and luxurious splendor is to be

seen in its greatest extent. It is computed there are about 80,000 private carriages in London; five thousand, it has been estimated, may often be seen in Hyde Park. The number during the great Exhibition has increased beyond all the power of computation: the leading thoroughfares being incessantly blocked up with all sorts of vehicles. Till within a few years past, Hyde Park, Bayswater and Knightsbridge were considered suburban; now imposing and stately edifices may be seen ranged in long lines of succession, making this vicinage the most fashionable and splendid portion of the 'West End.' Luxury and splendor here vie with the old mansions of the aristocracy in the squares of Grosvenor, Bryanston, Hanover and Cavendish; and for sumptuous magnificence they stand unrivalled. But the great crowning glory of Hyde Park-the Crystal Palace-bas passed away. Its advent was a memorable one, however, and will not easily be forgotten. Although it no longer exists, it has left its impress on the page of history.

The first notable building we meet with, as we leave the Park, is Apsley House, the mansion of the Duke of Wellington; it is situated in Piccadilly, at the south-east corner of Hyde Park, and connected with it by a triumphal arch of the Corinthian order. This edifice is worthy, in all

respects, of its illustrious occupant,-" the man whom the nation delighteth to honor."

Many works of art of high importance decorate this mansion in the various apartments, the principal of which is a magnificent saloon, occupying the entire western side. On the walls are hung many of the finest pictures; it is in this room the grand annual banquet is given by his Grace, on the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo, to the principal officers of the army serving on the occasion.

In the inner hall stands the colossal statue of Napoleon, by Canova. The figure is nude, holding a winged Victory in the right hand. On the entrance of the allied armies into Paris, after the

battle of Waterloo, it became a trophy of war, and was presented by the congregated sovereigns of Europe to the illustrious hero in whose mansion it is now placed.

There is also a bronze copy of the monument, by Rauch, dedicated to the veteran Blücher.

The collection of pictures is not extensive, but exceedingly choice; several of them were presented to the duke by the king of Spain, after their recovery from the baggage of Joseph Bonaparte, captured at Vittoria. The greatest gem is considered to be Christ's Agony in the Garden, by Correggio. It is a small picture which has always borne the highest reputation, and was for a long time in the Royal Palace of Madrid.

"The Iron Duke," as he is familiarly called, seems to belong to two ages-his name fills the story of the Peninsular war, and the battle of Waterloo, and he is still the political confidant of his Sovereign. He has, indeed, long enjoyed a living apotheosis of fame, and, although verging towards ninety years of age, still retains the possession of his mental and physical powers. It is said that some years ago, an American lady in conversation with a friend, remarked as she was passing near Apsley House, that she had seen all the wonders of England, except one-the Duke of Wellington.