of a woman who had come from the main land, and could speak only English. This, she remarked, made a great impression up on her father.

How all the people here were lodged, I know not. It was partly done by separating man and wife, and putting a number of men in one room, and of women in another.

Wednesday, 8th September.-When I waked, the rain was much heavier than yesterday; but the wind had abated. By breakfast, the day was better, and in a little while it was calm and clear. I felt my spirits much elated. The propriety of the expression," the sunshine of the breast 2," now struck me with peculiar force; for the brilliant rays penetrated into my very soul We were all in better humour than before Mrs. M'Kinnon, with unaffected hospitality and politeness, expressed her happiness in having such company in her house, and appeared to understand and relish Dr. Johnson's conversation, as indeed all the company seemed to do. When I knew she was old Kingsburgh's daughter, I did not wonder at the good appearance which she made.

culation. As Dr. Johnson said of our wea- on the side of the road, said to him, they riness on the Monday at Aberdeen, "Sen- had heard two taischs (that is, two voices sation is sensation:" Corrichatachin, which of persons about to die), and what was rewas last night a hospitable house, was in markable, one of them was an English my mind, changed to-day into a prison. taisch, which they never heard before. After dinner I read some of Dr. Macpher- When he returned, he at that very place son's "Dissertations on the Ancient Cale-met two funerals, and one of them was that donians." I was disgusted by the unsatisfactory conjectures as to antiquity, before the days of record. I was happy when tea came. Such, I take it, is the state of those who live in the country 1. Meals are wished for from the cravings of vacuity of mind, as well as from the desire of eating. I was hurt to find even such a temporary feebleness, and that I was so far from being that robust wise man who is sufficient for his own happiness. I felt a kind of lethargy of indolence. I did not exert myself to get Dr. Johnson to talk, that I might not have the labour of writing down his conversation. He inquired here, if there were any remains of the second sight. Mr. Macpherson, minister of Slate, said, he was resolved not to believe it, because it was founded on no principle. JOHNSON. "There are many things then, which we are sure are true, that you will not believe. What principle is there, why a loadstone attracts iron? why an egg produces a chicken by heat? why a tree grows upwards, when the natural tendency of all things is downwards? Sir, it depends upon the degree of evidence that you have." Young Mr. M'Kinnon mentioned one M'Kenzie, who is still alive, who had often fainted in his presence, and when he recovered, mentioned visions which had been presented to him. He told Mr. M'Kinnon, that at such a place he should meet a funeral, and that such and such people would be the bearers, naming four; and three weeks afterwards he saw what M'Kenzie had predicted. The naming the very spot in a country where a funeral comes a long way, and the very people as bearers, We resolved to set out directly after when there are so many out of whom a breakfast. We had about two miles to choice may be made, seems extraordinary. ride to the sea side, and there we expect We should have sent for M'Kenzie, had weed to get one of the boats belonging to the not been informed that he could speak no fleet of bounty 4 herring-busses then on the English. Besides, the facts were not relat- coast, or at least a good country fishinged with sufficient accuracy. boat. But while we were preparing to set out, there arrived a man with the following card 5 from the Reverend Mr. Donald M'Queen:

Mrs. M'Kinnon, who is a daughter of old Kingsburgh [a Macdonald], told us that her father was one day riding in Sky, and some women, who were at work in a field

1 [Mr. Boswell should have recollected, that he and Dr. Johnson were probably the only persons of the party who had nothing to do. A country gentleman's life would be miserable, if he had no more business or interest in the scenes around him than the visitor of a few days at a stranger's house can have. M'Kinnon would probably have been more, and with more reason, ennuyé in Bolt Court than Johnson and Boswell were at Corrichatachin.-ED.]

She talked as if her husband and family would emigrate, rather than be oppressed by their landlord 3; and said, "How agreeable would it be, if these gentlemen should come in upon us when we are in America.” Somebody observed that Sir Alexander Macdonald was always frightened at sea. JOHNSON. "He is frightened at sea; and his tenants are frightened when he comes to land."

[Wigs were, at this period, still generally worn; a fashion at which posterity will wonder, 5 The Highlanders were all well inclined to as we now do, at the excess of the fashion, as the episcopalian form, proviso that the right king exhibited in the pictures of Lely and Kneller. was prayed for. I suppose Malcolm meant to We can hardly reconcile ourselves to "a yellow-say, "I will come to your church because you ish, bushy wig" as part of the costume of "a are honest folk; viz. Jacobites.-WALTER perfect Highland gentleman."-ED.] SCOTT.]

his pocket-book, it was rather an inconve- | family mansion; a fine verdure about it, nience than a loss." He told us, he now with a considerable number of trees; and recollected that he dreamt the night before, beyond it hills and mountains in gradation that he put his staff into a river, and chanced of wildness. Our boatmen sung with great to let it go, and it was carried down the spirit. Dr. Johnson observed, that naval stream and lost. "So now you see (said musick was very ancient. As we came he) that I have lost my spurs; and this near the shore, the singing of our rowers story is better than many of those which we was succeeded by that of reapers, who have concerning second sight and dreams." were busy at work, and who seemed to Mr. M'Queen said he did not believe the shout as much as to sing, while they worksecond sight; that he never met with any ed with a bounding activity. Just as we well-attested instances; and if he should, he landed, I observed a cross, or rather the should impute them to chance; because all ruins of one, upon a rock, which had to who pretend to that quality often fail in their me a pleasing vestige of religion. I perpredictions, though they take a great scope, ceived a large company coming out from and sometimes interpret literally, sometimes the house. We met them as we walked figuratively, so as to suit the events. He up. There were Rasay himself; his told us that, since he came to be minister of brother Dr. Macleod; his nephew the the parish where he now is, the belief of Laird of M'Kinnon; the Laird of Macleod; witchcraft, or charms, was very common, Colonel Macleod of Talisker, an officer in insomuch that he had many prosecutions the Dutch service, a very genteel man, and before his session (the parochial ecclesiasti- a faithful branch of the family; Mr. Maccal court) against women, for having by leod of Muiravenside, best known by the these means carried off the milk from peo- name of Sandie Macleod, who was long in ple's cows. He disregarded them; and exile on account of the part which he took there is not now the least vestige of that in 1745; and several other persons. We superstition. He preached against it; and were welcomed upon the green, and conin order to give a strong proof to the peo- ducted into the house, where we were in ple that there was nothing in it, he said troduced to Lady Rasay, who was sur from the pulpit, that every woman in the rounded by a numerous family, consisting parish was welcome to take the milk from of three sons and ten daughters 3. The his cows, provided she did not touch them. Laird of Rasay is a sensible, polite, and Dr. Johnson asked him as to Fingal. most hospitable gentleman. I was told He said he could repeat some passages in that his island of Rasay, and that of Rona the original, that he heard his grandfather (from which the eldest son of the family had a copy of it; but that he could not has his title), and a considerable extent of affirm that Ossian composed all that poem land which he has in Sky, do not altogether as it is now published. This came pretty yield him a very large revenue 4; and yet much to what Dr. Johnson had maintain- he lives in great splendour; and so far is ed2; though he goes farther, and contends he from distressing his people, that, in the that it is no better than such an epick present rage for emigration, not a man has poem as he could make from the song of left his estate. Robin Hood; that is to say, that, except a few passages, there is nothing truly ancient but the names and some vague traditions. Mr. McQueen alleged that Homer was made up of detached fragments. Dr. Johnson denied this; observing, that it had been one work originally, and that you could not put a book of the Iliad out of its place; and he believed the same might be said of the Odyssey.

The approach to Rasay was very pleasing. We saw before us a beautiful bay, well defended by a rocky coast; a good

[Such spells are still believed in. A lady of property in Mull, a friend of mine, had a few years since much difficulty in rescuing from the superstitious fury of the people an old woman, who used a charm to injure her neighbour's cattle. It is now in my possession, and consists of feathers, parings of nails, hair, and such like trash, wrapt in a lump of clay.-WALTER SCOTT.]

[This seems the common sense of this once Jurious controversy.--WALTER SCOTT.]

It was past six o'clock when we arrived. Some excellent brandy was served round immediately, according to the custom of the Highlands, where a dram is generally taken every day. They call it a scalch.

3 ["We were," says Johnson, “introduced into the house, which one of the company called the Court of Rasay,' with politeness which not the Court of Versailles could have thought defective." Lett. vol. i. p. 103.—ED.]

4 [Johnson says, "The money which Rasay raises from all his dominions, which contain, at least, fifty thousand acres, is not believed to exceed 2501.; but as he keeps a large farm in his own hands, he sells every year a great number of cattle, which adds to his revenue; and his table is furnished from the farm and from the sea with very little expense, except for those things which this country does not produce, and of those he is very liberal. The wine circulates liberally, and the tea, coffee, and chocolate, however they are got, are always at hand." Lett. vol. i. p. 142. -ED.]

ed by it. Mr. M'Queen however defended it, by saying, that it is doing the thing much quicker, as one operation effects what is otherwise done by two. His chief reason however was, that the servants in Sky are, according to him, a faithless pack, and steal what they can; so that much is saved by the corn passing but once through their hands, as at each time they pilfer some. It appears to me, that the graddaning is a strong proof of the laziness of the Highlanders, who will rather make fire act for them, at the expense of fodder, than labour themselves. There was also, what I cannot help disliking at breakfast, cheese: it is the custom over all the Highlands to have it; and it often smells very strong, and poisons to a certain degree the elegance of an Indian repast 2. The day was showery; however, Rasay and I took a walk, and had some cordial conversation. I conceived a more than ordinary regard for this worthy gentleman. His family has possessed this island above four hundred years. It is the remains of the estate of Macleod of Lewis, whom he represents. When we returned, Dr. Johnson walked with us to see the old chapel. He was in fine spirits. He said, "This is truly the patriarchal life; this is what we came to find."

On a side-board was placed for us, who had | things, there were oat-cakes, made of what come off the sea, a substantial dinner, and is called graddaned meal, that is, meal a variety of wines. Then we had coffee and made of grain separated from the husks, tea. I observed in the room several ele- and toasted by fire, instead of being threshgantly bound books and other marks of im-ed and kiln-dried. This seems to be bad proved life. Soon afterwards a fiddler management, as so much fodder is consumappeared, and a little ball began. Rasay himself danced with as much spirit as any man, and Malcolm bounded like a roe. Sandie Macleod, who has at times an excessive flow of spirits, and had it now, was, in his days of absconding, known by the name of M'Cruslick1, which it seems was the designation of a kind of wild man in the Highlands, something between Proteus and Don Quixote; and so he was called here. He made much jovial noise. Dr. Johnson was so delighted with this scene, that he said, "I know not how we shall get away." It entertained me to observe him sitting by, while we danced, sometimes in deep meditation, sometimes smiling complacently, sometimes looking upon Hooke's Roman History, and sometimes talking a little, amidst the noise of the ball, to Mr. Donald M'Queen, who anxiously gathered knowledge from him. He was pleased with M'Queen, and said to me, "This is a critical man, sir. There must be a great vigour of mind to make him cultivate learning so much in the Isle of Sky, where he might do without it. It is wonderful how many of the new publications he has. There must be a snatch of every opportunity." Mr. M'Queen told me that his brother (who is the fourth generation of the family following each other as ministers of the parish of Snizort) and he joined together, and bought from time to time such books as had reputation. Soon after we came in, a black cock and gray hen, which had been shot, were shown, with their feathers on, to Dr. Johnson, who had never seen that species of bird before. We had a company of thirty at supper; and all was good humour and gaiety, without intemperance.

Thursday, 9th September.-At breakfast this morning, among a profusion of other

1

After dinner, M'Cruslick, Malcolm, and I went out with guns to try if we could find any black cock; but we had no sport, owing to a heavy rain. I saw here what is called a Danish fort. Our evening was passed as last night was. One of our company 3, I was told, had hurt himself by too much study, particularly of infidel metaphysi cians, of which he gave a proof, on second sight being mentioned. He immediately retailed some of the fallacious arguments of Voltaire and Hume against miracles in general. Infidelity in a Highland gentleman appeared to me peculiarly offensive. I was sorry for him, as he had otherwise a good character. I told Dr. Johnson that he had studied himself into infidelity. JOHNSON, "Then he must study himself out of it again; that is the way. Drinking large

[Alexander Macleod, of Muiravenside, advocate, became extremely obnoxious to government by his zealous personal efforts to engage his chief, Macleod, and Macdonald of Sky, in the Chevalier's attempt of 1745. Had he succeeded, it would have added one-third at least to the Jacobite army. Boswell has oddly described M' Crus-ly will sober him again." lick, the being whose name was conferred upon this gentleman, as something betwixt Proteus and Don Quixote. It is the name of a species of satyr, or esprit follet, a sort of mountain Puck or hobgoblin, seen among the wilds and mountains, as the old Highlanders believed, sometimes mirthful, and sometimes mischievous. Alexander Macleod's precarious mode of life, and variable spirits, occasioned the soubriquet.—WALTER SCOTT.]

Friday, 10th September.-Having resolved to explore the island of Rasay, which could be done only on foot, I last night obtained my fellow-traveller's permission to leave

2

[Mr. Boswell forgets that there were breakfasts before the Indian luxuries of tea and sugar had been introduced.-ED.]

3

[Probably Talisker, who had been a good deal abroad.-WALTER SCOTT.]

him for a day, he being unable to take sous, it was formerly much the custom, in hardy a walk. Old Mr. Malcolm Macleod, these isles, to have human bones lying who had obligingly promised to accompany above ground, especially in the windows of me, was at my bedside between five and churches. On the south of the chapel is six. I sprang up immediately, and he and the family burying-place. Above the door, I, attended by two other gentlemen, tra- on the last end of it, is a small bust or imversed the country during the whole of this age of the Virgin Mary, carved upon a day. Though we had passed over not less stone which makes part of the wall. There than four-and-twenty miles of very rugged is no church upon the island. It is annexed ground, and had a Highland dance on the to one of the parishes of Sky; and the mintop of Dun Can, the highest mountain in ister comes and preaches either in Rasay's the island, we returned in the evening not house, or some other house, on certain Sunat all fatigued, and piqued ourselves at not days. I could not but value the family seat being outdone at the nightly ball by our more, for having even the ruins of a chapel less active friends, who had remained at close to it. There was something comhome. fortable in the thought of being so near a piece of consecrated ground. Ďr. Johnson said, "I look with reverence upon every place that has been set apart for religion;" and he kept off his hat while he was within the walls of the chapel.

My survey of Rasay did not furnish much which can interest my readers; I shall therefore put into as short a compass as I can the observations upon it, which I find registered in my journal. It is about fifteen English miles long and four broad. The eight crosses, which Martin menOn the south side is the laird's family seat, tions as pyramids for deceased ladies, stood situated on a pleasing low spot. The old in a semicircular line, which contained withtower of three stories, mentioned by Mar- in it the chapel. They marked out the tin, was taken down soon after 1746, and a boundaries of the sacred territory within modern house supplies its place. There which an asylum was to be had. One of are very good grass-fields and corn-lands them, which we observed upon our landing, about it, well dressed. I observed, how-made the first point of the semicircle. ever, hardly any inclosures, except a good garden plentifully stocked with vegetables, and strawberries, raspberries, currants, &c. On one of the rocks just where we landed, which are not high, there is rudely carved a square, with a crucifix in the middle. Here, it is said, the Lairds of Rasay, in old times, used to offer up their devotions. I could not approach the spot, without a grateful recollection of the event commemorated by this symbol.

A little from the shore, westward, is a kind of subterraneous house. There has been a natural fissure, or separation of the rock, running towards the sea, which has been roofed over with long stones, and above them turf has been laid. In that place the inhabitants used to keep their oars. There are a number of trees near the house, which grow well; some of them of a pretty good size. They are mostly plane and ash. A little to the west of the house is an old ruinous chapel, unroofed, which never has been very curious. We here saw some human bones of an uncommon size. There was a heel-bone, in particular, which Dr. Macleod said was such, that if the foot was in proportion, it must have been twenty-seven inches long. Dr. Johnson would not look at the bones. He started back from them with a striking appearance of horrour'. Mr. M'Queen told

1

There are few of them now remaining. A good way farther north, there is a row of buildings about four feet high: they run from the shore on the east along the top of a pretty high eminence, and so down to the shore on the west, in much the same direction with the crosses. Rasay took them to be the marks for the asylum; but Malcolm thought them to be false sentinels, a common deception, of which instances occur in Martin, to make invaders imagine an island better guarded. Mr. Donald M'Queen justly, in my opinion, supposed the crosses which form the inner circle to be the church's landmarks.

The south end of the island is much covered with large stones or rocky strata. The laird has enclosed and planted part of it with firs, and he showed me a considerable space marked out for additional plantations.

Dun Can is a mountain, three computed miles from the laird's house. The ascent to it is by consecutive risings, if that expression may be used when valleys intervene, so that there is but a short rise at once; but it is certainly very high above

which are not unfrequently seen in maritime districts. Johnson expressed great horror at the sight of these bones; and called the people, who could use such relics of mortality as an ornament, inere savages.-ED.]

[It is perhaps a Celtic custom; for I observed it in Ireland occasionally, especially at the celebrated promontory of Mucruss, at Killarny.— WALTER SCOTT.]

2 [Lord Stowell informs the editor, that on the road from Newcastle to Berwick, Dr. Johnson and he passed a cottage, at the entrance of which were set up two of those great bones of the whale,