CHAP. III. FLEET STREET. Burning of the Pope.- St. Bride's Steeple. - Milton.- Illuminated Clock -Melancholy End of Lovelace the Cavalier.- Chatterton. - Generosity of Hardham, of Snuff Celebrity.-Theatre in Dorset Garden.- Richardson, his Habits and Character.-Whitefriars, or Alsatia. - The Temple Its Monuments, Garden, &c. - Eminent Names connected with it. Goldsmith dies there.- Boswell's first Visit there to Johnson. - Johnson and Madame de Boufflers.. Bernard Lintot. - Ben Jonson's Devil Tavern. Other Coffee-houses and Shops. Goldsmith and Temple-bar.- Shire Lane, Bickerstaff, and the Deputation from the Country. The Kit-Kat Club. - Mrs. Salmon. Isaac Walton. Cowley. Chancery Lane, Lord Strafford, and Ben Jonson. - Serjeant's Inn. - Clifford's Inn. - The Rolls. Sir Joseph Jekyll.-Church of St. Dunstan in the West. - Dryden's House in Fetter Lane. - Johnson, the Genius Loci of Fleet Street. - His Way of Life. - His Residence in Gough Square, Johnson's Court, and Bolt Court. Various Anecdotes of him connected with Fleet Street, and with his favourite Tavern, the Mitre. W E are now in Fleet Street, and pleasant memories thicken upon us. To the left is the renowned realm of Alsatia, the Temple, the Mitre, and the abode of Richardson; to the right divers abodes of Johnson; Chancery Lane, with Cowley's birth-place at the corner; Fetter Lane, where Dryden once lived; and Shire or Sheer Lane, immortal for the Tatler. Fleet Street was, for a good period, perhaps for a longer one than can now be ascertained, the great place for shows and spectacles. Wild beasts, monsters, and other marvels, used to be exhibited there, as the wax-work was lately; and here took place the famous ceremony of burning the Pope, with its long procession, and bigoted anti-bigotries. BURNING OF THE POPE. 111 However, the lesser bigotry was useful, at that time, in keeping out the greater. Roger North has left us a lively account of one of these processions, in his Examen. It took place towards the close of the reign of Charles the Second, when just fears were entertained of his successor's design to bring in Popery. The day of the ceremony was the birth-day of Queen Elizabeth, the 17th March. “When we had posted ourselves," says North, "at windows, expecting the play to begin" (he had taken his stand in the Green Dragon Tavern), "it was very dark; but we could perceive the street to fill, and the hum of the crowd grew louder and louder; and at length, with help of some lights below, we could discern, not only upwards towards the bar, where the squib-war was maintained, but downwards towards Fleet Bridge, the whole street was crowded with people, which made that which followed seem very strange; for about eight at night we heard a din from below, which came up the street, continually increasing till we could perceive a motion; and that was a row of stout fellows, that came, shouldered together, cross the street, from wall to wall on each side. How the people melted away, I cannot tell; but it was plain those fellows made clear board, as if they had swept the street for what was to come after. They went along like a wave; and it was wonderful to see how the crowd made way: I suppose the good people were willing to give obedience to lawful authority. Behind this wave (which, as all the rest, had many lights attending), there was a vacancy, but it filled apace, till another like wave came up; and so four or five of these waves passed, one after another; and then we discerned more numerous lights, and throats were opened with hoarse and tremendous noise; and with that advanced a pageant, borne along above the heads of the crowd, and upon it sat an huge Pope, in pontificalibus, in his chair, with a seasonable attendance for state; but his premier minister, that shared most of his ear, was Il Signior Diavolo, a nimble little fellow, in a proper dress, that had a strange dexterity in climbing and winding about the chair, from one of the Pope's ears to the other. "The next pageant was a parcel of Jesuits; and after that 112 ST. BRIDE'S STEEPLE. (for there was always a decent space between them) came another, with some ordinary persons with halters, as I took it, about their necks; and one, with a stenterophonic tube, sounded, 'Abhorrers! Abhorrers!' most infernally; and, lastly, came one, with a single person upon it, which some said was the pamphleteer, Sir Roger L'Estrange, some the King of France, some the Duke of York; but, certainly, it was a very complaisant, civil gentleman, like the former, that was doing what every body pleased to have him; and, taking all in good part, went on his way to the fire." The description concludes with a brief mention of burning the effigies, which, on these occasions, appear to have been of pasteboard. * One of the great figurers in this ceremony was the doleful image of Sir Edmondbury Godfrey, a magistrate, supposed to have been killed by the Papists during the question of the plot. Dryden has a fine contemptuous couplet upon it, in one of his prologues ; "Sir Edmondbury first, in woful wise, Leads up the show, and milks their maudlin eyes." We will begin with the left side, as we are there already; and first let us express our thanks for the neat opening by which St. Bride's church has been rendered an ornament to this populous thoroughfare. The steeple is one of the most beautiful of Wren's productions, though diminished, in consequence of its having been found to be too severely tried by the wind. But a ray now comes out of this opening as we pass the street, better even than that of the illuminated clock at night time; for there, in a lodging in the churchyard, lived Milton, at the time that he undertook the education of his sister's children. He was then young and unmarried. He is said to have ren * See Walter Scott's edition of Dryden, vol. x. p. 372. "Abhorrers " were addressers on the side of the court, who had avowed "abhorrence " of the proceedings of the Whigs. The word was a capital one to sound through a trumpet. RICHARD LOVELACE. 113 dered his young scholars, in the course of a year, able to read Latin at sight, though they were but nine or ten years of age. As to the clock, which serves to remind the jovial that they ought to be at home, we are loth to object to any thing useful; and in fact we admit its pretensions; and yet as there is a time for all things, there would seem to be a time for time itself; and we doubt whether those who do not care to ascertain the hour beforehand, will derive much benefit from this glaring piece of advice. "At the west end of St. Bride's church," according to Wood, was buried Richard Lovelace, Esq., one of the most elegant of the cavaliers of Charles the First, and author of the exquisite ballad beginning, "When Love with unconfined wings Hovers within my gates, "When I lie tangled in her hair, The birds that wanton in the air, This accomplished man, who is said by Wood to have been in his youth "the most amiable and beautiful person that eye ever beheld," and who was lamented by Charles Cotton as an epitome of manly virtue, died at a poor lodging in Gunpowder Alley, near Shoe Lane, an object of charity. He had been imprisoned by the Parliament * Aubrey says that his death took place in a cellar in Long Acre; and adds, "Mr. Edm. Wylde, &c., had made a collection for him, and given VOL. I. I 114 RICHARD LOVELACE. and lived during his imprisonment beyond his income. Wood thinks that he did so in order to support the royal cause, and out of generosity to deserving men, and to his brothers. He then went into the service of the French king, returned to England after being wounded, and was again committed to prison, where he remained till the king's death, when he was set at liberty. "Having then," says his biographer, "consumed all his estate, he grew very melancholy, (which brought him at length into a consumption,) became very poor in body and purse, and was the object of charity, went in ragged clothes, (whereas, when he was in his glory, he wore cloth of gold and silver,) and mostly lodged in obscure and dirty places, more befitting the worst of beggars than poorest of servants," &c.* "Geo. Petty, haberdasher in Fleet street," says Aubrey, "carried 20 shillings to him every Monday Morning from Sir Manny, and Charles Cotton, Esq., for. months but was never repaid." As if it was their intention he should be! Poor Cotton, in the excess of his relish of life, lived himself to be in want; perhaps wanted the ten shillings that he sent. The mistress of Lovelace is reported to have married another man, supposing him to have died of his wounds in France. Perhaps this helped to make him careless of his fortune: but it is probable that his habits were naturally showy and expensive. Aubrey says he was proud. He was accounted a sort of minor Sir Philip Sydney. We speak the more of him, not only on account of his poetry, (which, for the most part, displays much fancy, injured by want of selectness,) but because his connection with the neighbourhood probably suggested to him money." But Aubrey's authority is not valid against Wood's. He is to be read like a proper gossip, whose accounts we may pretty safely reject or believe, as it suits other testimony. * Wood's Athenæ Oxonienses, fol. vol. ii. p. 145. |