with such politeness south of the Tweed. Thus chatting cheerily, and in the best of spirits, they trudged along for about a mile at right angles to the little sea-port, till on ascending a hill they turned round to take one long farewell look of the Clyde. The prospect was indeed beautiful, and one not easily to be forgotten. The river, with its ample sweep, lay before them, the sun gathering on it in all the splendour of a fine summer's afternoon. The clear blue of both sky and water so impressed Toddles that he could not refrain from telling his friend that it was like a scene in Italy, although his knowledge of that country was confined to the pictures of it he had seen at different times. Almost at their feet stood the town of Helensburgh, with its clean white houses and numerous church-steeples, while beyond this rolled the noble Clyde in wild splendour. Slowly they turned away and pursued their journey, until they came to the cross-roads about four miles from Helensburgh. After lingering here for a minute's rest and refreshment, they turned to the right and soon reached a rural bridge, beneath which flowed a river called the Fruin, which seemed to the cockney mind of Toddles to be chiefly remarkable for the size of its stones, and the small quantity of water in it. An old man, with the proverbial indolence of country people in the neighbourhood of bridges, was looking at the water. To him Tom Stepwell at once addressed himself. "Are there many fish here?"

Twenty minutes' hard walking brought them to Loch Lomond. Far off in the distance loomed the lofty peaks of Ben Lomond, mingling almost with the clouds, whilst round about it stood a whole bevy of high hills, apparently gazing up with awe at that noble mountain whose summit topped them all. The islands which adorn the centre of the loch blocked up the passage entirely, but our friends saw enough to be convinced of the fascinating beauty of the grand sheet of water which rippled before them. The sight to people whose knowledge of mountain and lake scenery extended only to Cumberland Fells and a few small tarns, was one of bewildering delight, and it was several minutes before they cared to resume their journey. Inspirited by their rest and the refreshing sight of the lake, they put their best legs forward, and after some sharp walking they came to the bye-road which leads to Balloch. Passing a smart-looking railway hotel, which on principle they avoided, the tourists crossed an elegant suspension-bridge, underneath which flowed a rivulet from the lake, paid a small toll for the privilege, and entered the Balloch Hotel, which was patronised by the

с

Empress of the French, as the worthy host, Mr. John Menzies, informed his guests by means of gold letters on the doorway. A good wash and a capital tea refreshed them, and then while Toddles finished his notes of the day, the agricultural mind of Stepwell found enjoyment in the pages of "The Mark Lane Express." Before, however, the former had completed his task, the latter, overcome perhaps by the price of wheat, or some other exciting topic, was fast asleep on the sofa. As soon as Toddles noted this fact, he closed his book, and quietly led his friend to bed. There, in the silence and solitude of their double-bedded room, the account of expenditure was made out, and half the sum handed to Toddles by his friend Tom. Then, with a feeling of joy, a strange novel sensation such as they had never experienced before, Dick and Tom threw off their clothes, sprang into bed, and in a few minutes were fast asleep.

Thus Toddles discovered that a sovereign was not such an elastic coin, after all.

TODDLES'S HIGHLAND TOUR.

THE SECOND DAY.-FROM BALLOCH TO FORT WILLIAM.

A seven o'clock on the morning of Friday, the 31st July, the waiter

knocked loudly at the door of the bedroom, in which slept Stepwell and Toddles. So completely were the limbs of our heroes bathed in slumber, that several minutes elapsed before they heard the summons, and at least ten minutes before either could muster sufficient courage to spring out of bed. Although each declared to the other that he felt like a giant refreshed, yet it must be owned that both experienced a slight stiffness in the neighbourhood of the knees, and that their feet caused them the most trifling pain imaginable. After dressing and repacking their knapsacks, they descended to the breakfast-room, in which was assembled a party, consisting of three middle-aged Scotch gentlemen and a very pretty young lady, who at once made a deep impression upon the somewhat susceptible heart of Richard Toddles, and caused that youth to determine to enter into conversation with her as soon as he obtained an opportunity. The Scotch gentlemen soon commenced a discussion about the route by which our friends intended to travel, and gave them much useful information on the subject. The morning meal being over, the bill was paid by Stepwell, the knapsacks were strapped in their places, and the whole of the breakfast party proceeded along the suspension bridge to the railway station, from whence a train was to take them to the Loch, a distance of three hundred yards, as the company, in the true harpy spirit of railway directors in general, declined to allow any traveller to walk down to the landing stage on the Loch. Following the example of the young lady, Stepwell took two third-class tickets, and as soon as their train arrived at the station, Toddles managed to obtain a seat in the same carriage with her, and did all he could to attract her attention, by talking to one of the gentlemen, by whom she was accompanied. In this praiseworthy object he was sorely hindered by the pertinacious attention paid to him by a cockney, dressed in a fifty-shilling tourist suit, set off by the greatest of all absurdities, a pair of kid gloves, and patent leather boots. This individual insisted on drawing Richard's attention every minute to some choice piece of news in the penny paper he had with him, and on making rude jokes upon

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the people who were in the carriage. The latter amusement soon received a check, for when the cockney hinted to Toddles that Stepwell looked like a baker, who had burnt his face in making his bread (for Tom's face was certainly rather brown), Richard immediately informed his friend of the circumstance, and as Tom at once ground his teeth, and moved his fists about uneasily, the London youth drew in his horns, and held silence for some time. At 8.50 the tourists went on board a natty little steamer, the cabin of which was on deck, while its roof served as a promenade, upon which the passengers lounged, read newspapers, and enjoyed themselves as best they thought fit.

Loch Lomond at the starting place is completely shut in by the little islands which, while they destroy a good view of the lake, add, by their presence, materially to its wild beauty. Soon the ancient castle of Balloch, once a stronghold of the great Lennox family, was left on the right, and after passing by several islets, the boat came to that long narrow strip of land, Inch Munin, the largest island on the lake, and noted for its deer park, and the old ruined castle of Lennox, where Isabel, Duchess of Albany, resided after James I.'s Restoration in 1424. The many natural beauties of this wondrous loch, the gorgeous wild mountains terminating only at the water's edge, and the entire novelty of the scene, almost made Toddles forget his desire to chat with the young lady whom he first met at Balloch. After gazing with mingled feelings of blank delight and amazement through his field glass at the rich picture before him, it suddenly struck him that the glass might prove a good introduction to the fair damsel. He therefore at once offered it to his charming fellow voyager, and soon had the unspeakable gratification of noting that her large liquid eyes touched the same place as his own dull orbs. Then followed mutual inquiries with regard to the direction of their journeying. The young lady had come from Inverness, and was going to leave Loch Lomond at Inversnaid, en route for Loch Katrine, whereas it was our tourist's intention to go north to Inverness, and visit the Trossachs on their return. While Richard and his fair companion were pointing out to each other the marvellous beauties of the scene before them, Stepwell, who found in ladies' society no great charm, was making arrangements with the guard of the coach, which was to take them from the head of Loch Lomond to Fort William. This task was particularly congenial to Stepwell's taste, for after he had paid £2. 6s. for two box seats, he had a long chat with the man upon the subject of horses, the build of coaches, and many other matters of agricultural interest. Toddles and the Inverness young lady, who had taken their position at the prow of the vessel,

direct

soon came

to the conclusion that the scenery of the lake was simply indescribable, and that (so Toddles suggested) it was as Scott feelingly has it

"So wondrous wild, the whole might seem

The scenery of a fairy dream."

"An apt quotation," said the young lady, smiling approvingly at the satisfied Toddles.

"Yes, but my boy, Scott was thinking of the Trossachs and not Loch Lomond, when he wrote those lines," suddenly said the odious cockney, hitting Toddles on the back.

The mortification of the youth at this unexpected correction, can be better imagined than described. Measuring him with his flashing eyes from tip to toe, he concentrated in his glance so contemptuous and defiant a look, that it completely staggered the intrusive cockney, and forced him to retire precipitately. As soon as Toddles had sufficiently regained his self-possession, he resumed.

"See how superbly grand are those mountains, which rise peak above peak on each side of the loch, and how charming are these little green vales, springing as it were from underneath the calm placid water. Then how charmingly picturesque are these landing places, that jut the sides of the lakes, improving the prospect instead of spoiling it."

To add to the enjoyment of the scene, music lent its charms to soothe the whilom-savage Toddles; but as an accordion and a violin were played by opposition minstrels within ten yards of each other, the melody was not very remarkable for the harmony it produced. Soon a narrow gorge was reached, to the right of which rose the bluff craggy heights of a lofty mountain, no other than Ben Lomond. At this point the loch looked strangely clear and pellucid, when compared with either the water of the Clyde or the silvery Thames. It would be impossible to imagine anything wilder and richer in colour than the splendid mountain scenery in this district. Our travellers, too, were particularly fortunate in the view they obtained of Ben Lomond. This fine mountain, which is 3,175 feet above the level of the sea, has a strange-looking cone for a summit, and although from the lake it appears steep and almost precipitous, yet the ascent is so easy, that tourists can ride to the very top. Toddles, who had longed to have an opportunity for saying something cutting to the cockney tourist, who had already caused him some slight annoyance, took the opportunity of suggesting this fact to the youth, at the same time glancing at his patent leather boots, and then at the young lady, who could scarcely resist smiling at the idea of a tourist wearing such fragile protection for his feet. The