The mountains rising on each side are lofty, and apparently inaccessible. Half way through the glen, after passing a queer spot, known as the Devil's Staircase, which consists of a huge flight of stairs roughly cut in the rock, stands a strange wild-looking rock, called the Chancellor of Glencoe, representing a rough head with a large hooked nose, and covered with a high wig. Further on to the left is a large hole cut in the rock, which the driver called Ossian's Cave, and declared that at one time the poet had lived there; a statement which he capped by pointing to a little waterfall trickling down the rock, which was known to everybody, he said, as Ossian's Shower-bath. After travelling through the pass, awe-struck and overcome by the grandeur and desolation of the mountains, for seven miles, the travellers at last turned a corner and halted at a little roadside inn, situate at the extremity of the glen.

Glencoe is, without exception, the grandest sight in the Highlands, and may be aptly termed the Alps of Scotland. The first glimpse of the place is so wild and desolate as naturally on its own account to impress the traveller with wonder, but when to this you add a crowd of mountains confusedly piled close to each other and stretching in all directions, with streams rushing down their sides, one experiences a strange feeling of

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gloomy rapture, and thinks with a bitter heart of the cursed act of barbarity which in the year 1692 disgraced for ever the government of William III. in Scotland. How the English soldiers were hospitably entertained by Macdonald of Glencoe for nearly a fortnight, and how at the end of that time the hosts were barbarously murdered by their guests, their houses burnt, and their property divided among the ruffian soldiery, are facts too well known to be dilated upon here; still the remembrance of this diabolical deed should make every Englishman blush for his country when he passes through this grand old glen, which from its gloomy and desolate aspect seems now to mourn the act of human butchery it witnessed 170 years ago.

As soon as the horses were changed, the coach started off, and in a short time Loch Leven, a large lake in the form of an irregular oval, and extending about ten miles in circumference, burst in view. Here may be seen the ruins of Loch Leven Castle, where Mary Queen of Scots was confined. The lake is also noted for the excellence of the trout it contains. Soon the travellers arrived at a little village which literally swarmed with children of all sizes and ages, who scampered along the road and trotted round the coach in the hopes of obtaining halfpence. After skirting the lake for about a mile, the coach stopped at the village of Ballachulish, which is noted for its slate quarries. Here some of the passengers alighted, while the others kept an eye upon the luggage. This attention was beyond the power of Stepwell and Toddles, since their baggage was strapped behind them. They, therefore, leisurely walked to the ferry, which was waiting to take them across the loch, where another coach was ready, upon which they were to proceed to Fort William, which luckily was the termination of their day's journey; for although the day had been one continued scene of enjoyment yet they began to feel rather tired of being perched so long on the outside of a coach. The last stage was twelve and a half miles off, and as it was the intention of the travellers to go to Inverness, Toddles, thirsting as usual for information, and with that desire to have his arrangements as complete as possible, so characteristic of Englishmen, now commenced to pester the driver with questions about the time at which the boat started from Fort William to Inverness on the Monday morning, for it was their idea to devote Saturday to a grand ascent and descent of Ben Nevis,-a feat so awful in the mind of the stouter of the two tourists that he almost shrank at the contemplation of it. The guard of the coach, who by his kind attention throughout the journey showed what a warm interest he took in the travellers, now recommended them to ascend Ben Nevis at night, as by this plan they

might reach Bannavie at 8 a.m. on Saturday, or go on to Inverness by the steamer, which left at that hour. He also volunteered to procure a guide for them who would take them to the very top, and as their

knapsacks might be sent on board the steamer, no difficulty but their own ability to perform this Herculean task could possibly suggest itself to them. After coasting Loch Eil, which looked very romantic and

chilly by the pale light of the moon, for several miles, the coach at length reached Fort William at half-past nine, and the journey for the

day was ended. The tourists, after completing their ablutions, sat down to a hearty tea. As soon as the meal was over, their friend, the redcoated guard, returned with a trusty guide, who was to show them the way up Ben Nevis. After a slight pecuniary acknowledgment for his many kind acts of service had been made to the guard, the tourists agreed to meet the guide at the witching hour of twelve, and again sitting down to rest their limbs in anticipation of the great ascent, they consumed a good strong glass of whisky toddy as a nightcap, ordered some sandwiches (or sangwidges, as the guide called them) to be tied up, which, together with a bottle of whiskey, but for whose company they never could reach the top, settled the bill, made up their accounts for the day, and then took a nap for an hour before they prepared to enjoy the exhilarating pleasures derivable from mountain climbing.

How few pleasures, suggested Toddles, as he gave to Stepwell £2. 4s. 6d. for his share of the expenses for the day, one can obtain from a sovereign. Tom, I am afraid our money will not go so far as we imagined.

TODDLES'S HIGHLAND TOUR.

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THE THIRD DAY.-THE ASCENT AND DESCENT OF BEN NEVIS-FROM BANNAVIE TO INVERNESS.

T 11 45 p.m. on Friday, the 31st August, the two travellers were aroused from their short slumber by the waiter, who informed them that the guide was at the door. After giving instructions that their knapsacks were to meet them at the steamer the next morning, they summoned the guide, filled one of his pockets with sandwiches, and the other with a pint bottle of whiskey, seized their sticks, and boldly set out on ther exploit. The first feeling of the fresh air at that witching hour conveyed to Toddles an impression somewhat akin to that which he felt on getting into a cold bath on a wintry morning. The novelty of the situation, however, was so charming that the two friends trotted on sharply in glorious spirits, by the side of the guide, for about a mile along the high road. The moon shed its pale light over the scene, and imparted to the midnight excursion all the romance that so romantic a nature as that of Toddles could desire. The natural jollity of the two friends was considerably increased by the pleasant conversation of the guide, who was altogether such a merry good-tempered fellow, as to convince Richard that he was an Irishman, in spite of the man's denial, when interrogated on the subject. After walking for a quarter of an hour the guide opened a gate, and the tourists, leaving the road, entered a field, and soon started up a small hill. Toddles, who imagined that this hillock was Ben Nevis, and who was very anxious to know the exact moment at which he commenced the ascent, was rather disconcerted on being informed that before he reached the foot of the mountain he would first have to ascend and then descend a hill, which, by the bye, was far steeper than Ben Nevis itself. So the three walked up the hill, which being covered with grass, was very slippery, in consequence of the dew. The guide, who led the way, and Stepwell pushed on gaily, but poor Toddles, unaccustomed as he was to mountain climbing, floundered and slid backwards every step he took, whilst his field-glass, which he had brought with him in order to obtain a closer view of sunrise at the summit, persisted in banging so often against his left side, that he was compelled to request the guide to ease him of this encumbrance. A little