the ground floor a tobacconist has taken up his abode, and to him Toddles applied for permission to look over the place. The answer was that the housekeeper would appear in a few minutes, but as five minutes elapsed and nobody came, Stepwell's patience exhausted itself, and he dragged his companion away. After observing the Tron church, which derives its name from the Tron, or weighing beam, to which at one time the ears of malefactors were nailed, they paid a visit to the Council Chamber of the Royal Exchange, and there obtained a pass to see the Regalia, which is kept in the castle. To this the tourists next bent their steps. The castle stands on a high rock, which on one side is too precipitous even to be scaled. After crossing a drawbridge they entered a room lighted by old lamps, in which is kept the Regalia, consisting of a sceptre, a sword of state, and a crown. The feeling which the sight of these rather paltry insignia of Royalty raises in one's mind, is one of peculiar interest in connexion with the many lawless deeds which the possession of them has caused. After visiting a room in which Queen Mary gave birth to James I. of England, the attention of Stepwell was directed to an old gun, manufactured in Normandy in 1476, known as Mons Meg. After expressing their admiration of the fine fellows composing the 92nd Regiment, which was quartered there, the tourists crossed the Princes Street Gardens by the road past the National Gallery, and then visited Toddles's friend, who was good enough to show them the interior of some of the banks and insurance offices. Most of these splendid buildings boast of tesselated pavements, large marble pillars, and gorgeously painted ceilings. The privilege of issuing the unpleasant Scotch pound notes alone brings in £30,000 to one bank. They then drove through the west end of the town, and looked over a bridge into a little black sluggish stream, called the Waters of Leith. If it had been Lethe it certainly would have justified the title applied to it. Their guide then took them into some of the shops, which are fitted up in a far more elegant manner than those of London. After glancing at the Picture Gallery, they thanked Toddles's friend for his kindness and then left him. Richard at once rushed into a shop to buy some more views, whilst Stepwell went to get his hair cut. They then, after dining, returned to the hotel, paid the bill, and at a quarter-past five marched up the Scott Monument, which is 200 feet high, and which cost no less than £15,650. When the Channel Fleet was in the town, a drunken sailor, not content with ascending this monument by the stairs, actually climbed up the parapet and stood on the top, a square space of six inches. At a few minutes after six the tourists left Edinburgh for Melrose, much to their regret, for they both felt so charmed with old Reekie that they would willingly have spent another day there. After passing the large station of Galashiels, the train stopped at Melrose, and Toddles and Stepwell left it. They then deposited their knapsacks at the hotel, and started off to glance at the venerable Abbey, remembering Sir Walter Scott's advice "If you would see fair Melrose aright Go visit it by the pale moonlight." The keeper of the Abbey seemed to be of a different opinion, for the gate was locked. She however it was a widow-told them that if they came between nine and ten on the following morning, she would be happy to conduct them over the place. "The George," had tea, and went to bed. THURSDAY, AUGUST 6, 1863. Bed at Edinburgh Breakfast and attendance Dinner Holyrood Palace Train to Melrose Tea at Melrose..... They therefore returned to EXPENSES. £0 5 0 0 1 0 TODDLES'S HIGHLAND TOUR. THE LAST DAY-MELROSE, ABBOTSFORD, AND DRYBURGH. WING to the limited accommodation of the inn at Melrose, Toddles and Stepwell were unable to obtain a double-bedded room, and for the first time during their tour slept in different apartments. As a natural result, for both were heavy sleepers, the clock had struck nine before they made their appearance in the coffee-room. Here, seated at a table, was a party, consisting of a pleasant old gentleman, an unpleasant middle-aged lady, and two very pretty stately girls, with large blue eyes and light, wavy hair. The impulsive Toddles at once became anxious to enter into conversation with them, but the sour looks of the mamma offered effectual hindrance to his hopes. He was however glad to hear one of the young ladies say that she was sure she should like Melrose, but his joy was soon turned into sorrow, for when the tourists' breakfast appeared, the other party disappeared, probably to pay their visit to the ruins. As soon as the meal was consumed, Toddles and his friend made their way through the village to the ruins of the abbey, where the widow was in attendance to show them over the place. Toddles at once inquired whether the young ladies were in the ruins, and was much distressed to hear that they had paid only a flying visit, as they wanted to catch the train to Newcastle that morning. On entering this perfection of a ruin, the guide led them to the chapels on the right, in each of which stands a little fount, originally used for stowing wine. In one of these chapels are models of the heads of David I. of Scotland and his Queen. In the next chapel they were shown a small stone on which the monks of old knelt down; but the most interesting sight inside the abbey is the wonderful carving of the roof, which even at the present day is almost perfect. In one corner of the transept hang two weights, tied to a cord, which work the clock, a venerable relic that has laboured for two hundred years. Proceeding round the transept they next saw the figure of St. Bridget, near whom lay a fierce looking figure, made up by three distinct pieces of stone, each of which has no connexion with the others. Next they visited the spot where stood the high altar, and here again were impressed by the beauty of the remains of the roof and window. In the centre of this roof is a figure representing our Saviour, while on the other keystones are figures 71 of some Roman soldiers. Close to the altar can be seen a marble grave of Alexander II., of Scotland, covered with some rare fossils. Near this, under a small stone, it is supposed that the heart of Robert Bruce was buried, and at the other side of the altar lie the remains of the Black Douglas. The guide now led them through the choir into the transept, where she directed their attention to two queer little figures of St. Peter and St. Paul, one holding a sword and the other a book. Passing out by a door on the right they reached the cloisters, portions of which are still in a wonderful state of preservation; on one side they noticed sixtytwo square impressions cut in the stone, no two of which are similar. They then returned through the transept, and went into the churchyard, from the south corner of which the best view of the abbey can be obtained. At the head of the Douglas window in the transept were formerly figures of the Saviour and the twelve apostles. These, however, were destroyed by the Reformers. In one niche Toddles was rather amused to see figures of a pig playing bagpipes, a monk the guitar, and a blind man carrying one who was lame. Above the gate leading to the churchyard they observed a figure of John the Baptist and six of his followers. The apostle holds a scroll, on which is written "Ecce filius Dei." Now going to one end of the churchyard, they obtained a view through the altar window, above which are headless figures of David I., his Queen, and a bishop. This abbey is almost the finest specimen of a ruin in this country. It was originally built in 1136, but in the perilous times that ensued was partly destroyed and burnt so frequently, that it probably did not exist in a perfect state for more than two hundred years. The nicety of chiselling, so remarkable on the buttresses and pinnacles of the building, is probably due to the monks of the Cistercian order; a body of men who were noted for their skill in architecture. Sir Walter Scott, in "The Lay of the last Minstrel," has described St. David's ruined pile in terms of loving eloquence, such as only could be used by the mighty Wizard of the North. After purchasing some views of Melrose, the two travellers started off on their visit to Abbotsford, situated about three miles from the village. When they had passed the village of Darnick, they came to a little gate, and on opening this, that wonderful conglomeration of all styles of architecture, Abbotsford, stood before them. Going down a long walk, with a wall on one side, they went through a gate, then along a terrace, close to a garden, covered with Irish yews, cypresses, and rhododendrons. As soon as they had put themselves under the care of a stout, cross-grained woman, whose palm seemed to have a natural itching for silver, they were led into the study, where they were shown a chair which belonged to Sir William Wallace, and a cast taken of Sir Walter's head after his death. They then entered the library, which contains twenty thousand |