perfectly fresh, the silicate solution should be made by adding one part of commercial water glass to nine parts of freshly boiled water. The eggs must be completely covered with the solution in a galvanized iron or earthen vessel and be kept in a cool place. It is said that the taste of the eggs is practically unchanged, even after ten to twelve months' storage. Eggs treated in this way crack more readily during boiling, but this may be obviated by piercing the shell with a strong needle.

It is important to note that unfertilized eggs keep much better than those which have been fertilized.

Egg Preparations

On account of the difficulty of keeping eggs fresh, dessicated or dried eggs and egg powders have been put upon the market. Desiccated eggs can be prepared by spreading the eggs over the surface of a slowly revolving cylinder, upon which a current of warm air is blown, or the semi-liquid eggs can be dried in a vacuum. Salt or sugar is sometimes added to assist in preserving the product. A recent method of drying is by allowing the beaten eggs to flow in a thin stream upon a wide block-tin belt, which moves slowly over revolving cylinders, in such a way that the thin film of egg is heated carefully, but never to a temperature about 120° F., lest the albumin be coagulated. This product is scraped off the belt, and dried more completely in wire boxes, and finally packed in barrels for transportation. It is intended for temporary use only, and must be kept in cold storage. From the standpoint of healthfulness there is no objection to desiccated eggs if made from good stock in the proper manner. The product is used by bakers and others, and has the advantage of keeping in localities and under conditions where fresh eggs are not available.

There are occasionally found on the market, egg substitutes which are made of the casein and albumin of milk, or blood albumin mixed with flour to form a paste or powder. Gelatin, isinglass and gluten are used in the same way. Other egg substitutes, which are

of course worthless, consist largely of starch or flour, colored with aniline yellow, so as to resemble eggs. They may not be injurious, but they are intended to lead the customer to think he is getting something "just as good" as eggs; when as a matter of fact he is buying at a high price, cheap materials which have none of the properties of eggs.

Eggs are produced all over the United States, but it is only the states of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, Minnesota, Nebraska, Kansas, Missouri, Texas, Tennessee and Kentucky that produce more eggs than are needed for home consumption, and can export to their less fortunate neighbors.

England is largely dependent on the Continent for its egg supply. The price of eggs in the United States varies with the time of the year, but in general is gradually increasing.

The new American tariff, placing eggs on the free list, has resulted in the importation of a large number of eggs from China. The importation of dried or frozen eggs has increased since the armistice was signed. This amounted to nearly 25,000,000 pounds in 1919. At the same time we exported over 38,000,000 dozen fresh eggs to foreign countries.

CHAPTER XVIII

SPICES AND CONDIMENTS

Spices and condiments are of extremely varied composition. They are used to communicate an agreeable flavor or aroma to food, and to stimulate the appetite. With the possible exception of common salt none of these substances can be said to be absolutely necessary to the human body. They may however be used with moderation by middle-aged and old people to give increased pleasure in partaking of food, but the use of spices by children should not be encouraged. Condiments are not to be regarded as food, for they do not contribute directly to the nourishment of the body, but they are to be considered as simply "food accessories."

ESSENTIAL OILS

This

Many of these substances owe their properties to the presence of a volatile oil, which excites the nerves of taste and smell and thus increases the desire for food, or as we say the appetite. The essential oil which many of them contain is readily distilled over with steam, and forms an important article of commerce. oil is sometimes used in the place of the material from which it is made, as in the case of the oil of cloves, cinnamon or thyme. These oils usually contain a number of closely related compounds, among which are the terpenes (C10H16), and camphors (C10H16O). The composition of some of the more important essential oils is considered under the spices mentioned below.

CLASSIFICATION

For convenience the spices and condiments may be classified with reference to the source from which they are obtained,

thus: 1. From stems or leaves; 2. from buds or flowers; 3. from the bark; 4. from roots or rootstocks; 5. from immature or ripe fruits; 6. from seeds.

1. FROM STEMS AND LEAVES

Bay leaf (Laurus nobilis L.).—The sweet bay as it is called is used as a condimental substance in food. It is a native of the Mediterranean but grows in sheltered gardens in temperate climates. The oil of bay, which is used in making bay rum, is obtained from a different plant, the Myrcia acris.1

Sage (Salvia officinalis L.) is an ordinary perennial garden herb, growing wild in southern Europe, and is cultivated in old time gardens. The leaves, which are the official portion, are grayish green, hairy and very aromatic. From these an aromatic oil may be distilled. It possesses slightly tonic, astringent and aromatic properties. Its chief use is in flavoring meats, especially sausage, and the "stuffing" of fowls.

Spearmint (Mentha spicata L.) is the dried leaves and tops of a perennial herb, which is a native of Europe and Asia but has become naturalized and is found in moist places in many localities in the northern United States. It somewhat resembles peppermint, but can readily be distinguished from it both by appearance and odor. The plant is used especially in flavoring "mint sauce," which is served with mutton. The oil of spearmint is largely distilled in this country, the whole plant being used for this purpose.

Sweet majorum (Origanum majoranum).—This plant grows wild in Portugal and Andalusia, is a native of North America, and is cultivated as a garden herb in many countries. It yields a volatile oil when distilled with steam. The plant is used in medicine and for flavoring.

Sweet basil (Ocymum basilicum L.).—This is an aromatic plant which is a native of India and Persia,2 but is cultivated in gardens throughout the temperate zone. The leaves are used for 1 U. S. Dispensatory, p. 1589.

Loc. cit., p. 1584.

condimental purposes, on account of their aromatic flavor, which somewhat resembles that of cloves.

Summer savory (Satureja hortensis L.) is an annual plant which suggests thyme by its odor, and which grows wild in southern Europe. This and the mountain savory are grown for flavoring soups and entrees. The plant readily yields an aromatic oil upon distillation.

Peppermint (Mentha piperita L.) or "mint," is found growing wild in moist places in almost all countries of the temperate zone. It is also cultivated for making the essential oil especially in the states of Michigan, Indiana and New York. The oil which has a strong, pungent taste, "followed by a sensation of cold when air is drawn into the mouth," is not so much used for flavoring foods as in beverages and confectionery. Menthol (C10H19OH) is obtained from oil of peppermint.

Parsley (Apium petroselinum) is an umbelliferous plant which is a native of Sardinia and parts of southern Europe, and is readily cultivated. All the parts of the plant contain an oil to which the flavor is due. A peculiar substance called apiin, which suggests pectin because it readily forms a gelatinous mass, is obtained by boiling the herb with water and cooling. Various parts of the plant are used in medicine, but the amount consumed in garnishing and flavoring foods is not sufficient to produce any medicinal effects.

Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus) is a plant which is cultivated for its pungent, aromatic leaves. They are used more especially as a flavor in western Asia. Their principal use is for flavoring soups, and for making "tarragon vinegar," which is well known and appreciated in many countries.

Wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens L.) is a small evergreen herb which grows wild in various parts of the United States, especially in the north. The oil is largely used for flavoring beverages and confectionery. It contains about 95 per cent. of methyl salicylate and may be used as a substitute for salicylic acid in medicine.