muse.

THE LOST ONE-A STARRY DREAM.

On an evening of exquisite beauty, a dreamer went forth to The sun had just fallen beneath the horizon, arraying his attendant clouds in purple and gold, as he retired; night and day were harmoniously blending together, and the winds were sleeping on the bosom of ocean, except a gentle zephyr, which tripped with fairy foot over the dewy flowers. The moon had not yet risen, but the soft radiance which a thousand stars threw over the earth, and the delicious and refreshing air, all combined together to give the evening a talismanic effect over the tender emotions of the heart. "Ah!" he exclaimed, "well do I remember rushing on such a night as this to yonder green knoll, that I might behold the twilight melting into night, and watch the stars stepping out into the firmament, until the heavens were

in a glow. Oh! hours of silent peace, of serenity undisturbed, ye will never, never return! The freshness and the vigour of those feelings have passed for ever away, and I am a prey to pride, to ambition, to anxiety of mind!" He paused, as the moon peeped over a distant hill, and then, in an ecstacy, he stretched out his hands, as if in prayer to the DEITY who “sitteth in the circle of the heavens, and the inhabitants of the earth are accounted as grasshoppers before him."

Palace lights of heaven! Thousands of the dwellers in "populous cities pent may pass their lives untouched by the silent lessons which ye teach; but in all ages there have been hearts in which ye kindle the poetic fire, and in whose souls ye awaken a holy, a celestial feeling, which carries them up from the sluggishness of earth, and bears them away into a "region of invisibles," which the eye and heart of the dull and vulgar mind can neither

see nor understand.

"How sweet the moonlight sleeps upon this bank!
Sit, Jessica: look how the floor of heaven
Is thick inlaid with patines of bright gold!
There's not the smallest orb which thou behold'st,
But in his motion like an angel sings,
Still quiring to the young-eyed cherubim :
Such harmony is in immortal souls."

The dreamer had sat down to indulge his feelings for a few moments, and to rest himself. Overcome by fatigue, he dropped asleep, and a dream came over him. He thought he beheld the stars so well known as the Plough, or the Churl's Wain, in high commotion. They no longer moved in their calm, and bright, and stilly career; and sounds were heard, which were totally out of chord with the "music of the spheres." Louder and louder grew the sounds, and every luminary in heaven became interested in the contention. One of the Seven Sisters was envious of the popularity of the Pole Star; it would no longer endure that it should continue to be "the observed of all observers," or that it should remain, night after night, the "pivot of the universe," gazing, in lazy and lordly majesty, at the host which regularly revolved around it. Nothing would satisfy the rebel but that the pole-star and it should exchange places; while the polar determined to maintain its position, and seemed to glare defiance at its foe. One little, modest star whispered, "Sister, if we refuse to revolve as usual, the harmony of the creation will be disturbedwe shall derange the established order of things."

"Pooh, pooh," sharply retorted the angry and envious luminary "who cares for the established order of things-I will do as I please!"

"We ought to be content with the station in which we have been all placed, and not attempt to chalk out systems and places for ourselves," still persevered the little adviser.

"Who taught you to regulate my opinions?" again was the

rebel's indignant rejoinder-"I have a mind of my own, and will act as I please!"'

At this speech all the stars in the heavens became outrageous; all were contending that each had as good a right to exchange places with the polar as the rebel herself. Confusion and uproar ensued the stars were dancing in the firmament, for they were preparing to make a general rush to secure the honourable station the polar began to tremble, not merely for its own safety, but

lest the visible frame of creation should return to chaos; when

order was suddenly restored, and the pause, as contrasted with the previous clamour, became truly "expressive silence." A colossal figure was seen standing as if with " one foot on the sea, and another on the land;" from his eyes there glanced a light so effulgent, that the stars became dim at his presence; he stretched out his right hand, and demanded the cause of the commotion.

For a few moments none dared to speak: but the rebellious star, recovering her courage, stated the cause of her discontent, and petitioned to exchange places, for a time at least, with the polar. The polar immediately declared its determination to maintain its position, while the other stars urged their claims, and the confusion and uproar once more became general. The majestic figure again waved his right hand-silence profound once more prevailed-while he addressed the refractory luminary, exhorting her to be content with her position; pointed out the evils which would ensue, both to herself and others, if she persisted in the unreasonable demand, and then inquired if she were willing to submit, and resume her appointed duties. A distinct "No!" was heard echoing along the vault of heaven: the question was again repeated, and the negative was given in a louder and a firmer tone: a third time, and a third time it was given fiercer and firmer than before. All now gazed with indescribable interest on the awful interrogator: he looked upwards; seemed to breathe a prayer; then casting a look "more in sorrow than in anger" towards the refractory one, pronounced her doom. thou blotted from the map of heaven, and let another and a more obedient occupy thy stead!" Like a flash of lightning she fell into the gulf beneath, and her brightness was instantly quenched in its dark waters.

"A star is gone! a star is gone! There is a blank in heaven! One of the cherub-quire has done His aery course this even.

"He sat upon the orb of fire

That hung for ages there, And lent his music to the quire That haunts the nightly air.

"Hear how his angel brothers mourn→→→ The minstrels of the spheres! Each chiming sadly in his turn,

And dropping splendid tears.

"The planetary sisters all

Join in the fatal song, And weep their hapless brother's fall, Who sang with them so long.

"From the deep chambers of the dome,
Where sleepless Uriel lies,
His rude harmonic thunders come,
Mingled with mighty sighs.

"The thousand car-born cherubim,
The wandering cleven,
All join to chant the dirge of him,
Who just now fell from heaven!"

"Be

THE STORY OF THE CALIPH STORK. CHASID, Caliph at Bagdad, sat comfortably upon his sofa, on a beautiful afternoon. He had slept a little, for it was a hot day, and he seemed very cheerful after his nap. He smoked from a long pipe of rose-wood, sipped now and then a little coffee, which a slave poured out for him, and stroked his beard each time contentedly, as though he relished it greatly. It was plain, in short, that the Caliph was in a good humour. About this hour, one could very easily speak with him, for he was always then very mild and affable; on which account, it was the custom of his Grand Vizier, Manzor, to visit him every day about this time. He came indeed, on this afternoon, but he seemed thoughtful, which was very unusual with him. The Caliph took his pipe a little from his mouth, and said, "Grand Vizier, why is thy countenance so troubled ?"

The Grand Vizier crossed his arms over his breast, bowed himself before his lord, and answered, "My lord, whether my countenance is troubled, I cannot say; but below the castle there stands a merchant, who has such fine wares, that I am vexed, because I have so little money to spare."

The Caliph, who, for a long time past, had desired to confer a favour upon his Grand Vizier, despatched his black slave to bring up the merchant. The slave soon returned with him. The merchant was a little stout man, with a dark brown face, and in ragged attire. He carried a chest, in which he had various kinds of wares; pearls and rings, richly inlaid pistols, goblets and combs. The Caliph and his Vizier looked them all over, and the former purchased, at last, some beautiful pistols for himself and Manzor, and a comb for the wife of the Vizier. As the merchant was about to pack up his chest again, the Caliph espied a little drawer, and asked, whether there was also merchandise in that. The merchant drew out the drawer, and showed therein a box filled with a blackish powder, and a paper with strange writing upon it, which neither the Caliph nor Manzor could read. "I received these things from a merchant, who found them in the streets of Mecca," said he. "I know not what they contain. They are at your service for a trifling price, for I can do nothing with them." The Caliph, who liked to have old manuscripts in his library, even if he could not read them, purchased box and writing, and dismissed the merchant. But it occurred to the Caliph, that he would like to know the meaning of the writing, and he inquired of the Vizier whether he knew any one who could decipher it. "Most worthy lord and master," answered the latter, "near the great mosque, there dwells a man who understands all languages; he is called Selim the Wise ;' send for him; perhaps he can interpret these mysterious characters."

64

The learned Selim was soon brought. "Selim," said the Caliph, they say thou art very learned; peep now into this writing, to see whether thou canst read it; if thou canst, thou shalt have a rich new garment; if thou canst not, thou shalt have twelve blows upon the ear, and five-and-twenty upon the soles of the feet; for in that case, thou art without the right to be called Selim the Wise.'" Selim bowed himself and said, "Thy will be done, my lord." For a long time he considered the writing, then suddenly exclaimed, "That is Latin, my lord; or may I be hanged! Say what it means," commanded the Caliph, "if it be Latin." Selim commenced to translate: "Oh man, thou who findest this, praise Allah for his goodness! Whoever snuffs of the powder of this box, and says thereupon, Mutabor,' will have the power to change himself into any animal, and will understand also the language of animals. If he wishes again to return to his human form, he must bow himself three times toward the east, and repeat the same word; but beware, when thou art transformed, that thou laughest not, otherwise the magic word will disappear completely from thy memory, and thou wilt remain a beast.'

When Selim the Wise had read this, the Caliph was delighted beyond measure. He made the sage swear that he would disclose the secret to no one, presented him with a rich garment, and dismissed him. But to his Grand Vizier he said: "That I call a good purchase, Manzor. I can scarcely restrain my delight, until I am a beast. Early to-morrow morning come thou hither; we will go together into the field, snuff a little out of my box, and then listen to what is said in the air, and in the water, in the wood and in the field."

On the following morning, the Caliph had scarcely breakfasted, and dressed himself, when the Grand Vizier appeared to accompany him upon his walk, as he had commanded. The Caliph

From the Knickerbocker, New-York Magazine.

placed the box with the magic powder in his girdle, and having directed his train to remain behind, he set out alone with his Grand Vizier. They went first through the spacious gardens of the Caliph, and looked around, but in vain, for some living thing, that they might try their trick. The Vizier at last proposed that they should go farther on, to a pond, where he had often seen many of those animals called storks, which, by their grave appearance, and their continual clacking, had always excited his

attention.

The Caliph approved the proposal of his Vizier, and they went together to the pond. When they had arrived there, they saw a stork walking gravely up and down, looking for frogs, and now and then clacking away something to himself. At the same time they saw also, far above in the air, another stork, hovering over the place.

"I wager my beard, most gracious master," said the Grand Vizier, "that these two long-footed fellows are about carrying on a fine conversation with one another. What if we should become storks?"

"But first let us consider,

"Well said!" replied the Caliph. once more, how we are to become men again. True! three times must we bend toward the east, and say, Mutabor; then I am Caliph again, and thou Vizier. But for heaven's sake do not laugh, or we are lost!"

While the Caliph was thus speaking, he saw the other stork hover over their heads, and slowly descend toward the earth. He drew the box quickly from his girdle, took a good pinch, offered it to the Grand Vizier, who also snuffed it, and both called out, "Mutabor!"

Their legs then shrivelled up, and became thin and red; the beautiful yellow slippers of the Caliph and of his companion were changed into ill-shapen storks' feet; their arms were turned into wings; their necks were lengthened out from their shoulders, and became a yard long; their beards had disappeared, and their bodies were covered with soft feathers.

"You have a beautiful beak," said the Caliph, after a long pause of astonishment. "By the beard of the Prophet!-I have never seen anything like it in my life!"

"I thank you most humbly," returned the Grand Vizier, while he made his obeisance; "but if it were permitted, I might assert that your highness looks even more handsome as a stork, than as a Caliph. But come, if it please you, let us listen to our comrades yonder, and find out whether we actually understand the storkish language."

In the meanwhile, the other stork had reached the ground. He trimmed his feet with his beak, put his feathers in order, and advanced to his companion. The two new storks hastened to get near them, and, to their surprise, overheard the following conversation :-

"Good morning, Lady Longlegs! Already so early upon the meadow?"

"Thank you, dear Clatterbeak! I have had only a slight breakfast. You would like, perhaps, a piece of a duck, or the leg of a frog?"

"Much obliged, but I have no appetite to-day. I have come upon the meadow for a very different purpose. I am to dance to-day before some guests of my father's, and I wish to practise here a little quietly by myself."

The young stork immediately jumped about the field with singular motions. The Caliph and Manzor looked on with wonder; but as she stood in a picturesque attitude upon one foot, and fluttered her wings gracefully, they could no longer contain themselves; an irresistible laughter burst forth from their beaks, from which they could not recover themselves for a long time. The Caliph first collected himself.

"That was a joke, now," he exclaimed, "that is not to be purchased with gold! Pity that the foolish animals have been frightened away by our laughter; otherwise, perhaps, they might even have sung!"

But it now occurred to the Vizier that laughter had been forbidden them during their transformation. He imparted his anxiety to the Caliph. "Odds, Mecca and Medina! It would be a bad joke, if I must remain a stork! Bethink thyself of that stupid word; I cannot bring it out."

"Three times must we bow toward the east, and then say, Mu, mu, mu—"

They turned toward the east, and bowed and bowed, so that their beaks almost touched the earth; but alas! the magic word had escaped them. However often the Caliph bowed himself, and however anxiously the Vizier called out thereupon, "Mu, mu,”

all recollection of it had vanished, and the poor Chasid and his

Vizier remained storks.

Mournfully wandered the enchanted ones through the fields. They knew not what they should do in their distress. They could not rid themselves of their stork's skin; they could not return to the city to make themselves known, for who would have believed a stork, if he said he was the Caliph ?-and even if they should believe it, the inhabitants of Bagdad would not have a stork for their Caliph.

Owl begged him to relate it. The Caliph commenced, and repeated what we already know.

During the first days, they remarked great disorder and mourning in the streets; but about the fourth day after their transformation, as they sat upon the Caliph's palace, they saw in the street below a splendid procession. The drums and fifes sounded; a man in a scarlet mantle, embroidered with gold, rode a richly caparisoned steed, surrounded by a brilliant train of attendants. Half Bagdad leaped to meet him, and all cried, "Hail, Mirza, lord of Bagdad!" The two storks upon the roof of the palace looked at one another, and the Caliph said, "Canst thou now divine, Grand Vizier, wherefore I am enchanted? This Mirza is the son of my deadly enemy, the mighty magician, Cachnur, who in an evil hour swore revenge upon me. But still I will not give up hope. Come with me, thou true companion of my misfortune! We will wander to the grave of the Prophet. Perhaps upon that holy spot this spell will vanish." They soared from the roof of the palace, and flew toward Medina.

But flying was not such an easy matter to them, for the two storks had as yet had little practice. "Oh, my lord!" sighed forth the Grand Vizier, after a few hours; "with your permission, I can stand it no longer; you fly altogether too fast. Besides, it is now evening, and we should do well to seek a shelter for the night."

Chasid yielded to the prayer of his Vizier; and, as they at this moment perceived a ruin in the valley below, they flew thither. The place in which they had taken refuge for the night seemed formerly to have been a castle. Beautiful columns overtopped the ruins, and several chambers, which were still in a tolerable state of preservation, gave evidence of the former splendour of the building. Chasid and his companion wandered through the passages, to find a dry spot for themselves. Suddenly the stork Manzor stopped. "My lord and master," he whispered softly, "if it were not folly in a Grand Vizier, and still more in a stork, to be afraid of spirits, I should feel much alarmed, for something near by has sighed and groaned very audibly."

The Caliph stood still also, and heard very distinctly a low weeping, that seemed rather to come from a human being, than from an animal. Full of expectation, he was about to advance toward the place from whence the sounds of lamentation proceeded, when the Vizier seized him by the wing with his beak, and begged him earnestly not to plunge into new and unknown dangers. But in vain! The Caliph, who bore a brave heart under his stork's wing, tore himself loose, with the loss of some of his feathers, and hastened into a dark passage-way. He soon arrived at a door, which seemed to be partly open, and through which he overheard distinct sighs, with a slight moaning. In the ruined chamber, which was but scantily lighted by a small grated window, he perceived a large night owl seated upon the floor. Big tears rolled from her large round eyes, and with a hoarse voice she sent forth her lamentations from her curved beak. As soon, however, as she spied the Caliph and his Vizier, who also had stalked thither, she gave a loud scream of joy. Gracefully she wiped the tears from her eyes with her brown spotted wing, and, to the great astonishment of both, she exclaimed, in good human Arabic, Welcome, ye storks! Ye are a good sign of my rescue; for it has been prophesied to me, that by a stork I shall arrive to great happiness."

When the Caliph had recovered from his astonishment, he bowed with his long neck, brought his thin feet into a handsome position, and said, "Night Owl! from thy words I may conclude that thou art a companion in suffering. But alas! the hope that thou wilt be rescued by us is vain: thou wilt thyself perceive our helplessness, when thou shalt have heard our history." The Night

"Since then, many months have flown away. Solitary and disconsolate, I inhabit these walls as a hermitess. Scorned by the world, a horror even to the beasts; beautiful nature is locked up from me, for I am blind by day, and only when the moon pours her pale light over these ruins does the veil fall from my eyes."

The Owl ended, and wiped the tears again from her eyes; for the relation of her sorrows had drawn them forth anew. During the relation of the princess, the Caliph appeared sunk in deep thought. "If everything does not deceive me," he said, "there is a secret connection between our fates; but where shall I find the key to this riddle?" The Owl answered him, “Oh, my lord! I also have such a thought, for it was once prophesied to me, in my earliest youth, that a stork would bring me great happiness; and I may know, perhaps, how we can be rescued." The Caliph was much astonished, and asked her in what way she meant.

"The magician who has made us both miserable," said she, comes once in every month to these ruins. Not far from this chamber is a hall. There he is accustomed to feast with many of his companions. I have often listened there already. They relate then to one another their shameful deeds; perchance they may pronounce the magic word which you have forgotten."

"Oh, dearest princess!" exclaimed the Caliph; "tell me, when comes he?-where is the hall ?"

The Owl was silent for a moment, and then spake, "Take it not ungraciously, but only upon one condition can your wish be gratified."

"Speak out! speak out!" cried the Caliph; "command! I will obey in anything."

"It is this; I also would gladly be free, and this can only happen if one of you offer me his hand."

The storks seemed somewhat confused at this proposition, and the Caliph made a sign to his follower to withdraw for a moment with him.

"Grand Vizier!" said the Caliph, as they closed the door behind them, "this is a stupid business-but you could take her."

"So that my wife should tear out my eyes, when I return home!" said the other. "Besides, I am an old man, while you are young and unmarried, and ought willingly to give your hand to a young and beautiful princess.'

"That is just the thing," sighed the Caliph, while he sadly drooped his wings; "who tells you that she is young and beauti ful? It is buying a cat in a bag."

They talked for a long time together, but at last, when the Caliph saw that his Vizier would rather remain a stork than marry the Owl, he resolved to fulfil the condition himself. The Owl was overjoyed. She told them that they could not have come at a better time, for probably the musicians would assemble that very night.

She left the chamber, accompanied by the storks, in order to lead them to the hall. They walked for a long time through a dark passage-way, when, at last, a bright light beamed upon them from an opening in a half-ruined wall. When they had arrived thither, the Owl advised them to keep themselves perfectly quiet. From the fissure near which they stood they had a good view of the large hall. It was adorned round about with pillars, and splendidly decorated. In the middle of the hall stood a circular table, covered with various rare viands; around the table was placed a sofa, upon which sat eight men. In one of these men

the storks recognised the merchant who had sold them the magic powder. The one who sat next him desired him to recount his latest exploits. He related, among other things, the history of the Caliph and his Vizier.

"What sort of a word hast thou given them?" inquired the other magician.

"A very hard Latin one; it is 'Mutabor.'"

As the storks heard this, from their place of concealment, they became almost beside themselves for joy. They ran so quickly, with their long legs, to the door of the ruin, that the owl could scarcely follow them. There the Caliph addressed the owl with much emotion: "Saviour of my life, and of the life of my friend! as an eternal thanks for what thou hast done for us, receive me for thy husband!" Then he turned himself toward the east. Three times the storks bent their long necks towards the sun, which at this moment ascended from behind the hills; "Mutabor!" they exclaimed; in a twinkling they were transformed, and, in the delight of newly restored life, lay master and servant, laughing and weeping in each other's arms. But who can describe their astonishment, as they looked about them! A beautiful woman, magnificently arrayed, stood before them. She gave her hand, smiling, to the Caliph. "Do you no longer recognise your Night Owl?" said she.

It was that veritable bird! The Caliph was so enraptured with her beauty and grace, that he exclaimed, "It is my greatest happi

ness that I have been a stork !"

The three travelled now toward Bagdad together. The Caliph found in his clothes not only the box with the magic powder, but also his purse of gold. By this means he purchased at the nearest village whatever was necessary for their journey, and thus they arrived soon at the gates of Bagdad. The arrival of the Caliph excited the greatest wonder. They had supposed him dead, and the people were overjoyed to have their beloved lord again. Their hate burned so much the more against the deceiver, Mirza. They entered the palace, and took the old magician and his son prisoner. The Caliph sent the old man to that same chamber which the princess had inhabited as an owl, and ordered him to be there hung up. But to the son, who understood none of the arts of the father, he offered the choice either to die, or snuff. He was up to snuff," and chose the latter, when the Grand Vizier offered him the box. A good pinch, and the magic word of the Caliph, changed him into a stork. The Caliph ordered him to be shut up in an iron cage, and placed in his garden. Long and happily lived the Caliph Chasid with his wife the princess. His happiest hours were when the Grand Vizier visited him in the afternoon. Then they spake of their stork's adventure, and when the Caliph was more than commonly merry, he would so far descend as to imitate the Grand Vizier, and show how he looked as a stork. He walked then gravely up and down the chamber, with precise step, made a clacking noise, fluttered his arms like wings, and showed how he, to no purpose, bowed himself toward the east, and called out "Mu-mu-." This was always a great delight to the princess and her children; but when the Caliph too long clacked, and bowed, and cried “ Mu-mu-," the Vizier would threaten, smilingly," that he would relate to the wife of the Caliph the conversation which took place before the door of the Princess Night Owl!"

INGENIOUS EOLIAN HARP.

BEING on the sea-shore, I heard some wind-instrument, the harmony of which, though sometimes very correct, was intermixed with discordant notes that were by no means unpleasing. These sounds, which were very musical, and formed fine cadences, seemed to come from such a distance, that I for some time ima. gined the natives were having a concert behind the roadstead, about six miles from the spot where I stood. My ear was greatly deceived respecting the distance, for I was not an hundred yards from the instrument. It was a bamboo, at least twenty metres in height, which had been fixed in a vertical situation by the sea-side. I remarked between each knot a slit; these slits formed so many holes, which, when the wind introduced itself into them, gave agreeable and diversified sounds. As the knots of this long bamboo were very numerous, care had been taken to make holes in different directions, in order that, on whatever side the wind blew, it might always meet with some of them. I cannot convey a better idea of the sounds of this instrument, than by com. paring them to those of the harmonica.—Labillardière, Voyage in search of La Perouse.

A JOURNEY WITH THE JEWS FROM BRODY TO ODESSA.

I TOOK my departure from Brody * at noon on the 12th of August, accompanied by a young deputy facteur, attached to the He was instructed to manage for the

house of Messrs.

passing of my baggage at Radziewillow. On our arrival at the barrier, which is painted with black and white streaks, and edged with red, the first objects that I remarked were two Cossacks, as sentinels on the Russian side. My facteur (or factotum) descended from the box, and left me for a short time, whilst he went to the custom-house, close at hand. Presently the bar was raised, the carriage passed, and behold me within the dominions of the autocrat of all the Russias!

The value of my precaution at Dresden was now evident, for, without the signature of the Russian minister to my passport, Í should not have been allowed to cross the frontier.

I was obliged to go into the bureau to get my papers examined; my luggage was also subjected to a scrutiny :-all this was regular --but having been called upon by the cunning young facteur to pay a great number of silver roubles to the custom-house officers, I remonstrated, and was assured by him, in a mysterious tone and manner, that they were allowing me to come off very easily, and that, but for his powerful protection, I should not only have been detained many hours, but have had much more to pay. I quickly perceived that the rogues were playing into each other's hands: giving them to understand, therefore, that they should not see any more of my money, I claimed my baggage, got into the calèche, and gave orders to be driven to the house of the director of the post office. That gentleman was very obliging, and informed me that all persons who wish to travel post in Russia, must have an official permission to do so: this document is called a podaroschna, and is granted on presentation of a passport, en règle, on arriving at the first civil government of Russia; it contains a designation of the number of horses required, and the place of destination. A tax of one kopek a werste† for the whole extent of the route is paid on receiving the podaroschna. There would not have been any difficulty as to this, in my case, but as I did not speak the Russian language, and had not a servant with me who did, I was advised to make an arrangement with one of the Jewish horse-dealers of Radziewillow; for it was probable that I might be awkwardly situated on the wild steppes I was about to traverse, if I could not explain myself to the Russian postilions and postmasters. I could understand, and make myself understood by the Jews, who all speak bad German. The track usually followed by the Jews is shorter, by nearly a hundred werstes, than the regular post-road, which goes round by Dubna, &c. I took my leave, then, of the director, with many thanks for his politeness, and proceeded to the Hôtel de St. Petersbourg, kept by Mr. Jacobson, a German.

Having notified to the landlord my wish to make a bargain for horses, he sent for some stable-keepers; and in the mean time my ami intime, the deputy Jew facteur, who never left my side, accompanied me to the dwelling of the agent of my Brody friends. This person, a Jew, was absent, but his wife changed my money, paid my draft, and urged me very much to take up my abode in their house for the night, knowing that I was to pay for the accommodation; but it was my intention to be some werstes on my road before evening; and being perfectly satisfied with the Hôtel de St. Petersbourg, I declined this amiable invitation.

The head-dress of this Jewish lady was superb, being composed of a triangular something, a tiara if you will, all glittering with diamonds; I cannot pretend to say whether these jewels were of the first water; they abounded, however, not only in the coiffure, but also in the immense ear-rings worn by the Israelitish matron. the inn, all competitors for the honour (say profit) of conducting On my return I found a motley group assembled in front of me to Odessa. Divers manoeuvres were practised to attract my ludicrous ways, and many a long beard was thrust into closer notice several sorry-looking horses were shown off in various contact with my cravat than I liked. At every turn I took, a chin was wagging, and a pair of fiery eyes rolling at me, just as may be seen imitated in the plaster of Paris images that are sold about London streets by poor Italians. These chapmen seemed

:

Lemberg to Dubna, in Russian Poland. On account of the number of Jews

Brody is a town in the north-east of Galicia, on the high road from which inhabit it, it has been nicknamed the "German Jerusalem." ↑ Ten kopeks are equal to about two sols of France, or a penny English. The Russian werste is rather more than half an English mile.

to me to be opponents at one moment, and partners at another; for, after the most violent gesticulations and symptoms of pugilism, they cooled down, consulted together, and a delegate was sent to me, as from the general body. The belligerents had, apparently, come to an understanding; the basis of the treaty being, probably, to get as much from the Christian as possible, and to divide the spoil. I retreated to my chamber, and got the master of the house to assist me in the negotiation, which was at length brought to a conclusion, by my agreeing to give 195 paper roubles for the journey; 100 of which I paid down, the remainder to be added, if, on our arrival at Odessa, the other high contracting party should have done the work properly. I stipulated for four horses, and that we should arrive at Odessa in eight days at farthest. Having paid my Brody deputy facteur his fee for attendance; another facteur belonging to the hotel his fee, and various other incidental charges, I ordered all to be ready in half an hour, which space of time was devoted to the attainment, from the intelligent Mr. Jacobson, of as much information as possible; when, all being ready, I shook hands with him, and bade him farewell. My fuhrmann, or driver, was a Jew of about forty years of age, with a fine open countenance, and rather ruddy complexion-two unusual attributes amongst his brethren. He wore a robe of light blue stuff (not very clean), tied round the waist with a worsted sash; the brim of his low-crowned hat was very broad; and clusters of well-oiled locks fell from underneath it: his beard was of a respectable length.

The four horses ran abreast, and the whitish-looking outside animals, which were attached to two roughly-made extra splinterbars, might be compared to the studding-sails that are run out when a vessel is going with a steady breeze before the wind. The steeds were decidedly Jewish for they had long beards, and were very dirty. We went off at a dashing rate. I suppose there must have been nearly a hundred Israelites assembled to witness our departure. Many were the salutations as we passed; most of them appeared to me to be of a friendly nature; but, here and there, a scowl of anger and disappointment was seen: we were soon beyond the reach of either the well or ill-wishers. When nearly out of the straggling, dusty town of Radziewillow, the horses were suddenly reined in, and we stopped opposite a mean habitation, at the door of which stood a Jewess and two little children: the latter were handed up to my poor fuhrmann, who embraced them with much tenderness, and then delivered them carefully into the arms of their mother. I thought I saw a tear fall as he raised his head, after bending him down to salute his wife, whose eyes overflowed as she bade him adieu. There was no parade-no acting. The marks of mutual affection were unequivocal. We galloped off again. I looked through the glass at the back of the carriage, and perceived the poor woman and her children gazing after us, until a turn in the road took us out of sight. The weather was very fine, and we travelled till midnight, when we stopped at a small dwelling at the entrance of a village called Katerimbourg. This I found was to be our resting-place for the remainder of the night; the spot was as silent as the grave. After knocking and calling for some time, a voice answered from within. A short colloquy having passed between my fuhrmann and the inmate, the door was opened, and I was shown into a most miserable room, totally destitute of furniture. I thought I had seen misery enough; but, alas! it was my doom to witness a good deal more. The being who inhabited this den was a Jew of the most forbidding aspect; he was of middle stature, and was clothed in a black cassock, fitting close to his lean carcase-so lean, that (as a friend of mine was wont to say of a slim gentleman of our acquaintance) he would require stuffing to be a correct representation of the Apothecary in "Romeo and Juliet." His complexion was deadly pale, his eyes black as jet, and constantly in motion; his hair and beard were matted and neglected. He spoke but seldom, and moved about with noiseless step, occasionally leaning against the wall, and eyeing me from top to toe. I felt fatigued, and ordered my bed; the creature vanished, but soon reappeared, carrying a quantity of hay, which he threw down in a corner of the room, shaking it up afterwards, as though a litter were preparing for a horse. I had the cushions of my carriage arranged for a pillow; and, having primed my pistols, and obtained a candle to burn until morning, I wrapped my cloak around me, and was left "alone with my glory.' Alone! did I say? This is a mistake, for I had company of the most piquant description: myriads of * The paper rouble is equal to tenpence English, or one franc of France.

fleas hopped about my devoted frame, punctured my skin, sucked my blood, tickled my nose, and banished sleep from my eyes. I hailed the dawn joyfully, and rushing into the open air, ran to a distance from the hovel, with my enemies on my back, shook them off with disdain, and then hastened out of their reach. Nothing could tempt me to re-enter my bed-room. After some difficulty I obtained a little milk, for which slight refection, and my night's lodging, my impassible host charged me exorbitantly. We travelled thirty werstes (equal to about seventeen English miles) and halted at a village called Jampol. As the Jewish inns are almost all alike, I may as well describe that of Jampol. It consisted of a large shed or barn, having a gate at each end, so that you drive in at one entrance, and out at the other; this shed is appropriated to the reception of horses, carriages, cattle, and live-stock of all descriptions. At the moment we entered, it was occupied by a flock of sheep, and we had hard work to pass through them. On one side, close to the entrance, were two or three wretched rooms, covered with filth, and swarming with vermin.

At sunset we arrived at what is called the town of Alt-Konstantinon, and, to my great mortification, it was intimated to me that there I must remain for twenty-four hours. It was Friday evening,-the Sabbath had commenced, and nothing could induce my fuhrmann to move on that sacred day. I was much annoyed, and regretted exceedingly that I had not decided on travelling by the Russian post.

Perhaps it was not right to attempt to prevail on the man to break through the laws of his religion for filthy lucre. I confess that I made use of golden arguments; but, to his honour be it spoken, they did not weigh with him. I proposed to drive the horses myself, and that the conscientious fuhrmann should occupy my place in the carriage, making it his tabernacle; but he was not to be tempted. Yielding, then, with a good grace, I took possession of a chamber on one side of the shed; the apart. ment opposite (for this was a large inn, and there were rooms on each side of the gateway,) being occupied by a Polish family of rank, who had arrived a short time before me, with their carriages and servants. This detention at Alt-Konstantinon gave me an opportunity of seeing the habits of great Polish people on their journeys. I certainly felt surprised that persons of distinction and immense fortune could make up their minds to pass nights and days in these wretched places called inns, rather than, by ameliorating the condition of others, ensure at the same time their own comforts. Such, however, is the case;-a noble, wealthy family, residing within a few miles of the spot, passed the night, and a portion of the following day, in this most disgusting habitation. The heat was intense, the odours most offensive, and immediately underneath the open windows was a pool of muddy water, in which paddled and quacked a dozen of half-starved ducks.

In the course of the evening I went to the synagogue, which was held in a cottage larger than the rest. At night, lighted candles were placed in the windows of most of the huts;-the candlesticks were of brass, and very high. The effect of this illumination was not unpicturesque.

On my return to my cabin, I observed that several bundles of hay were being carried into the rooms occupied by my opposite neighbours. Seizing a favourable opportunity, I obtained some for myself, and, dropping down into my lonesome corner, slept as well as could be expected. Next morning it became necessary to keep a sharp look-out for a breakfast. I had brought from Brody some small loaves, which had been pretty well toasted in the sword-case of my carriage-indeed they were as hard as flints. The Jews would not boil an egg for me, nor lend me a pipkin in which to cook one for myself. However, after divers strict researches, and waiting a long time, three cups of coffee were brought me from a cabaret kept by a Christian. I had to pay about three shillings for this refreshment. I was much at a loss how to kill time during this long sabbath. The party which occupied the other side of the inn consisted chiefly of ladies,-viz. the mother and three or four grown-up daughters. The latter were dressed in the Parisian style, and it was curious enough to see them, on the Saturday morning, turning out (to use a sailor's expression, and I beg the ladies' pardon for so doing,) of their comfortless chambers, attired as fashionably as though they had just left an elegant dressing-room. Numbers of gloomy Jews and Jewesses were loitering about under the shed and at the open gateway; but, as the rising sun dispels the vapours of the morning, so, wherever these charming Polish ladies bent their steps, the group of black cassocks moved away, like a smoky cloud, to form