vales, and in the evening came to Reckersch. The next night, after having had the most beautiful prospect which I think I ever saw, from the top of a high hill, commanding a vast extent of various land on every side, we, with some difficulty and many words, procured a poor accommodation at an inn in Marksul. Saturday 22, having passed through Eisenach in the morning, we came through a more level open country, to Saxe Gotha in the afternoon, a neat pleasant city, in which the Prince's palace is indeed a fine building. We stopped an hour here with a friendly man, and in the evening came to Ditleben; and thence in the morning to Erfurt, where we were kindly entertained by Mr. Reinbart, to whom we were directed by some of the brethren at Marienborn. In the afternoon we came to Weymac, where we had more difficulty to get through the city than is usual, even in Germany; being not only detained a considerable time at the gate, but also carried before I know not what great man, I believe, the Duke, in the square; who, after many other questions, asked, What we were going so far as Hernhuth for? I answered, " To see the place where the Christians live." He looked hard, and let us go.

Monday 24, We came early to Jena, which lies at the bottom of several high, steep, barren hills. The students here are distinguished from the townsmen by their swords. They do not live together in colleges, (nor indeed in any of the German universities), as we do in Oxford and Cambridge; but are scattered up and down the town, in lodging or boarding houses; those of them to whom we were recommended, behaved as brethren indeed. O may brotherly kindness, and every good word and work, abound among them more and more!

At Jena the stone pillars begin, set up by the Elector of Saxony, and marking out every quarter of a German mile, to the end of his Electorate. Every mile is a large pillar, with the name of the neighbouring towns, and their distances inscribed. It were much to be wished, that the

same care were taken in England, and indeed in all countries.

We left Jena early on Tuesday, reached Weisenfeltz in the evening, and Merseberg on Wednesday morning. Having a desire to see Halle, (two German miles off), we set out after breakfast, and came thither at two in the afternoon. But we could not be admitted into the town when we eame* The King of Prussia's tall men, who kept the gates, sent us backward and forward, from one gate to another, for near two hours. I then thought of sending in a note to Professor Francke, the son of that august Herman Francke, whose name is indeed as precious ointment. O may I follow him, as he did Christ! and by manifestation of the truth commend myself to every man's conscience in the sight of God?

He was not in town. However, we were at length admitted into the orphan-house, that amazing proof, that all things are still possible to him that believeth. There is now a large yearly revenue for its support; beside what is continually brought in by the printing-office, the books sold there, and the apothecary's shop, which is furnished with all sorts of medicines. The building reaches backward from the front in two wings, for, I believe, a hundred and fifty yards. The lodging chambers for the children, their dining-room, their chapel, and all the adjoining apartments, are so conveniently contrived, and so exactly clean, as I have never seen any before. Six hundred and fifty children, we are informed, are wholly maintained there, and three thousand, if I mistake not, taught. Surely such a thing neither we nor our fathers have known, as this great thing which God has done here!

Thursday 27, We returned to Merseberg, and at five in the evening came to the gates of Leipsig. After we had sent in our pass, and waited an hour and a half, we were suffered to go to a bad inn in the town.

Friday 28, We found out Mr. Merschall, and the other gentlemen of the university, to whom we were directed. They were not wanting in any good office while we stayed,

and in the afternoon went with us an hour forward in our journey.

After a pleasant walk on Saturday, on Sunday 30, about seven in the morning, we came to Meissen. In Meissencastle, the German china-ware is made, which is full as dear as that imported from the Indies, and as finely shaped, and beautifully coloured, as any I have ever seen. After breakfast we went to church. I was greatly surprised at all I saw there; at the costliness of apparel in many, and the gaudiness of it, in more; at the huge fur caps worn by the women, of the same shape with a Turkish turband, which generally had one or more ribbands hanging down a great length behind. The minister's habit was adorned with gold and scarlet, and a vast cross both behind and before. Most of the congregation sat, (the men generally with their hats on, at the prayers as well as sermon), and all of them stayed during the Holy Communion, though but very few received. Alas, alas! what a reformed country is this!

At two in the afternoon we came to Dresden, the chief city of Saxony. Here also we were carried, for above two hours, from one magistrate or officer to another, with the usual impertinent solemnity, before we were suffered to go to the inn. I greatly wonder that common sense and common humanity (for these doubtless subsist in Germany as well as England), do not put an end to this senseless inhuman usage of strangers, which we met with at almost every German city, though more particularly at Frankfort, Weymac, Halle, Leipsig, and Dresden. I know nothing that can reasonably be said in its defence, in a time of full peace, being a breach of all the common, even heathen laws of hospitality. If it be a custom, so much the worse; the more is the pity, and the more the shame.

In the evening we saw the palace the late Elector was building, when God called him away. The stone-work he had very near finished, and some of the apartments within. It is a beautiful and magnificent design; but all is now swiftly running to ruin. The new church on the outside resembles a theatre: it is eight square, built of fine free

stone. We were desired also to take notice of the great bridge, which joins the new with the old town; of the large brass crucifix upon it, generally admired for the workmanship; and the late King Augustus's statue on horseback, which is at a small distance from it. Alas! where will all these things appear, when the earth and the works thereof shall be burnt up?

Between five and six the next evening, (having left Mr. Hauptman with his relations in Dresden), we came to Neustadt, but could not procure any lodging in the city. After walking half an hour, we came to another little town, and found a sort of an inn there; but they told us plainly, we should have no lodging with them; for they did not like our looks.

About eight we were received at a little house in another village, where God gave us sweet rest.

Tuesday, August 1, At three in the afternoon, I came to Hernhuth, about thirty English miles from Dresden. It lies in Upper Lusatia, on the border of Bohemia, and contains about an hundred houses, built on a rising ground, with ever-green woods on two sides, gardens and corn-fields on the others, and high hills at a small distance. It has one long street, through which the great road from Zittau to Lobau goes. Fronting the middle of this street is the orphan-house; in the lower part of which is the apothecary's shop, in the upper, the chapel, capable of containing six or seven hundred people. Another row of houses runs at a small distance from either end of the orphan-house, which accordingly divides the rest of the town (beside the long street) into two squares. At the east end of it is the Count's house, a small plain building like the rest; having a large garden behind it well laid out, not for show, but for the use of the community.

We had a convenient lodging assigned us, in the house appointed for strangers; and I had now abundant opportunity, of observing whether what I had heard was enlarged by the relators, or was neither more nor less than the naked truth.

I rejoiced to find Mr. Hermsdorf here, whom I had so often conversed with in Georgia; and there was nothing in his power which he did not do, to make our stay here useful and agreeable. About eight we went to the public service, at which they frequently use other instruments with their organ. They began, as usual, with singing: then followed the expounding, closed by a second hymn; prayer followed this; and then a few verses of a third hymn, which concluded the service.

Wednesday 2, At four in the afternoon was a love-feast of the married men, taking their food with gladness and singleness of heart, and with the voice of praise and thanksgiving.

Thursday 3, (and so every day at eleven), I was at the Bible Conference, wherein Mr. Miller, (late master of a great school in Zittau, till he left all to follow Christ), and several others, read together, as usual, a portion of Scripture in the original. At five was the conference for strangers, when several questions concerning justification were resolved. This evening Christian David came hither. O may God make him a messenger of glad tidings.

On Friday and Saturday (and so every day in the following week), I had much conversation with the most experienced of the brethren, concerning the great work which God had wrought in their souls, purifyin them by faith: and with Martin Dober, and the other teachers and elders of the church, concerning the discipline used therein.

Sunday 6, We went to church at Bertholdsdorf, a Lutheran village about an English mile from Hernhuth. Two large candles stood lighted upon the altar; the Last Supper was painted behind it; the pulpit was placed over it, and over that, a brass image of Christ on the cross.

The minister had on a sort of pudding-sleeve gown, which covered him all round. At nine began a long voluntary on the organ, closed with a hymn, which was sung by all the people sitting, in which posture, as is the German custom, they sung all that followed. Then the minister walked up to the altar, bowed, sung these Latin words,