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hills, few streams, only one hedge.-I remember no chapels nor crosses on the road.-Pavement still, and rows of trees.
"N. Nobody but mean people walk in Paris.
'Thursday, Oct. 19. At court, we saw the apartments;-the King's bedchamber and council-chamber extremely splendid.-Persons of all ranks in the external rooms through which the family passes; servants and masters.— Brunet with us the second time.
"The introductor came to us;-civil to me.-Presenting.-I had scruples -Not necessary.-We went and saw the king and queen at dinner. We saw the other ladies at dinner-Madame Elizabeth, with the Princess of Guimené. -At night we went to a comedy. I neither saw nor heard.-Drunken women. -Mrs. T [hrale] preferred one to the other.
Friday, Oct. 20. We saw the queen mount in the forest.-Brown habit: rode aside: one lady rode aside.—The queen's horse light grey;-martingale. -She galloped.—We then went to the apartments, and admired them.—Then wandered through the palace.—In the passages, stalls, and shops.-Painting in fresco by a great master, worn out. We saw the king's horses and dogs.—The dogs almost all English.-Degenerate.
The horses not much commended.--The stables cool; the kennel filthy. "At night the ladies went to the Opera. I refused, but should have been welcome.
"The king fed himself with his left hand, as we.
"Saturday, Oct. 21. In the night I got round. We came home to Paris.-I think we did not see the chapel.-Tree broken by the wind--The French chairs made all of boards painted.
"N. Soldiers at the court of justice.-Soldiers not amenable to the magistrates.--Dijon woman.
“Faggots in the palace.—Everything slovenly, except in the chief rooms.— Trees in the roads, some tall, none old, many very young and small.
"Women's saddles seem ill-made. Queen's bridle woven with silver.—Tags to strike the horse.
"Sunday, Oct. 22. To Versailles, a mean town. Carriages of business passing. Mean shops against the wall.-Our way lay through Sêve (Sêvres), where is the china manufacture.-Wooden bridge at Sêve, in the way to Versailles. The palace of great extent. The front long; I saw it not perfectly. -The Menagerie. Cygnets dark; their black feet; on the ground; tame.Halcyons, or gulls.-Stag and hind, young.—Aviary, very large: the net, wire. -Black stag of China, small.-Rhinoceros, the horn broken and pared away, which, I suppose, will grow; the basis, I think, four inches across; the skin folds like loose cloth doubled over his body, and cross his hips; a vast animal, though young: as big, perhaps, as four oxen.-The young elephant, with his tusks just appearing.-The brown bear put out his paws;-all very tame.— The lion.—The tigers I did not well view.--The camel or dromedary with two bunches called the Huguin,' taller than any horse.-Two camels with one bunch.-Among the birds was a pelican, who being let out, went to a fountain, and swam about to catch fish. His feet well webbed: he dipped his head,
This epithet should be applied to this animal with one bunch.-BoswELL.
and turned his long bill sidewise. He caught two or three fish, but did not eat them.
"Trianon is a kind of retreat appendant to Versailles. It has an open portico; the pavement, and I think, the pillars of marble.-There are many rooms which I do not distinctly remember.-A table of porphyry, about five feet long, and between two and three broad, given to Louis XIV. by the Venetian State. In the council-room almost all that was not door or window, was, I think, looking-glass.-Little Trianon is a small palace like a gentleman's house. The upper floor paved with brick.-Little Vienne.-The court is ill paved. The rooms at the top are small, fit to soothe the imagination with privacy. In the front of Versailles are small basons of water on the terrace, and
other basons, I think, below them. There are little courts.-The great gallery is wainscotted with mirrors, not very large, but joined by frames. I suppose the large plates were not yet made.—The playhouse1 was very large.―The chapel I do not remember if we saw.-We saw one chapel, but I am not certain whether there or at Trianon. The foreign office paved with bricks.-The dinner half a louis each, and, I think, a louis over.r.-Money given at menagerie, three livres; at palace, six livres.
Monday, Oct. 23. Last night I wrote to Levet.-We went to see the looking-glasses wrought. They come from Normandy in cast plates, perhaps the third of an inch thick. At Paris they are ground upon a marble table, by rubbing one plate upon another with grit between them. The various sands, of which there are said to be five, I could not learn. The handle, by which
1 "When at Versailles, the people showed us the theatre. As we stood on the stage looking at some machinery for playhouse purposes-'Now we are here, what shall we act, Dr. Johnson? The Englishman at Paris?'-'No, no,' replied he, 'we will try to act Harry the Fifth.""-MRS. PIOZZI.
the upper glass is moved, has the form of a wheel, which may be moved in all directions. The plates are sent up with their surfaces ground, but not polished, and so continue till they are bespoken, lest time should spoil the surface, as we are told. Those that are to be polished, are laid on a table covered with several thick cloths, hard strained, that the resistance may be equal: they are then rubbed with a hand rubber, held down hard by a contrivance which I did not well understand. The powder which is used last seemed to me to be iron dissolved in aquafortis: they called it, as Baretti said, marc de l'eau forte, which he thought was dregs. They mentioned vitriol and saltpetre. The cannonball swam in the quicksilver. To silver them, a leaf of beaten tin is laid, and rubbed with quicksilver, to which it unites. Then more quicksilver is poured upon it, which, by its mutual [attraction] rises very high. Then a paper ig laid at the nearest end of the plate, over which the glass is slided till it lies upon the plate, having driven much of the quicksilver before it. It is then, I think, pressed upon cloth, and then set sloping to drop the superfluous mercury: the slope is daily heightened towards a perpendicular.
"In the way I saw the Grêve, the mayor's house, and the Bastile.
"We then went to Sans-terre, a brewer.1 He brews with about as much malt as Mr. Thrale, and sells his beer at the same price, though he pays no duty for malt, and little more than half as much for beer. Beer is sold retail at 6d. a bottle. He brews 4000 barrels a-year. There are seventeen brewers in Paris, of whom none is supposed to brew more than he; reckoning them at
3000 each, they make 51,000 a-year. here no trade.
They make their malt, for malting is
"The moat of the Bastile is dry.
Tuesday, Oct. 24. We visited the king's library-I saw the Speculum humanæ Salvationis, rudely printed, with ink, sometimes pale, sometimes black; part supposed to be with wooden types, and part with pages cut in boards. The Bible, supposed to be older than that of Mentz, in '62; it no date; it is supposed to have been printed with wooden types. I am in doubt; the print is large and fair, in two folios. Another book was shown me, supposed to have been printed with wooden types; I think Durandi Sanctuarium in '58. This is inferred from the difference of form sometimes seen in the same letter, which might be struck with different puncheons. The regular similitude of most letters proves better that they are metal. I saw nothing but the Speculum, which I had not seen, I think, before.
"Thence to the Sorbonne.-The library very large, not in lattices like the king's. Marbone and Durandi, q. collection, 14 vol. Scriptores de rebus Gallicis, many folios.-Histoire Généalogique of France, 9 vol.-Gallia Christiana, the first edition, 4to. the last, f. 12 vol.—The Prior and Librarian dined [with us]-I waited on them home. Their garden pretty, with covered walks, but small; yet may hold many students. The Doctors of the Sorbonne are all equal-choose those who succeed to vacancies.-Profit little.
66 Wednesday, Oct. 25. I went with the Prior to St. Cloud, to see Dr. Hooke. -We walked round the palace, and had some talk.-I dined with our whole company at the monastery.-In the library, Beroald,-Cymon,-Titus, from
1 The detestable ruffian, who afterwards conducted Louis the Sixteenth to the scaffold, and commanded the troops that guarded it, during his murder.-MALONE.
Boccace.-Oratio Proverbialis to the Virgin, from Petrarch; Falkland to Sandys;-Dryden's Preface to the third vol. of Miscellanies.1
Thursday, Oct. 26. We saw the china at Sêve cut, glazed, painted.Bellevue, a pleasing house, not great; fine prospect.-Meudon, an old palace. -Alexander, in porphyry: hollow between eyes and nose, thin cheeks.-Plato and Aristotle-Noble terrace overlooks the town-St. Cloud.-Gallery not very high, nor grand, but pleasing.-In the rooms, Michael Angelo, drawn by himself, Sir Thomas More, Des Cartes, Bochart, Naudæus, Mazarine.--Gilded wainscot, so common that it is not minded.-Gough and Keene.--Hooke came to us at the inn.-A message from Drumgold.
"Friday, Oct. 27. I stayed at home.-Gough and Keene, and Mrs. S―'s friend dined with us.-This day we began to have a fire.-The weather is grown very cold, and, I fear, has a bad effect upon my breath, which has grown much more free and easy in this country.
Saturday, Oct. 28. I visited the Grand Chartreux built by St. Louis.-It is built for forty, but contains only twenty-four, and will not maintain more. The friar that spoke to us had a pretty apartment.-Mr. Baretti says four rooms; I remember but three. His books seemed to be French.-His garden was neat; he gave me grapes. We saw the Place de Victoire, with the statues of the King, and the captive nations.
"We saw the palace and gardens of Luxembourg, but the gallery was shut. -We climbed to the top stairs.-I dined with Colbrooke, who had much company :-Foote, Sir George Rodney, Motteux, Udson, Taaf.-Called on the Prior, and found him in bed.
"Hotel-a guinea a day.-Coach, three guineas a week.-Valet de place, three 1. a day.-Avant coureur, a guinea a week.-Ordinary dinner, six l. a head. -Our ordinary seems to be about five guineas a-day.-Our extraordinary expenses, as diversions, gratuities, clothes, I cannot reckon.-Our travelling is ten guineas a day.
"White stockings, 18 1.3 Wig.—Hat.
Sunday, Oct. 29. We saw the boarding-school.-the Enfans trouvés.—A room with about eighty-six children in cradles, as sweet as a parlour.--They lose a third; take in to perhaps more than seven [years old]; put them to trades; pin to them the papers sent with them.-Want nurses.-Saw their chapel.
"Went to St. Eustatia; saw an innumerable company of girls catechised, in many bodies, perhaps 100 to a catechist.-Boys taught at one time, girls at another. The sermon; the preacher wears a cap, which he takes off at the name :-his action uniform, not very violent.
Monday, Oct. 30. We saw the library of St. Germain.-A very noble collection.-Codex Divinorum Officiorum, 1459 :—a letter, square like that of the Offices, perhaps the same.-The Codex, by Fust and Gernsheym.—Meursius, 12 v. fol.-Amadis, in French, 3 v. fol.-CATHOLICON sine colophone, but of 1460.-Two other editions,3 one by Augustin. de Civitate Dei without name, date, or place, but of Fust's square letter as it seems.
1 He means, I suppose, that he read these different pieces, while he remained in the library.-BosWELL.
2 Eighteen livres. Two pair of white silk stockings were probably purchased.-MALONE 3 I have looked in vain into De Bure, Meerman, Mattaire, and other typographical books
"I dined with Col. Drumgold; had a pleasing afternoon.
"Some of the books of St. Germain's stand in presses from the wall, like those at Oxford.
"Tuesday, Oct. 31. I lived at the Benedictines; meagre day; soup meagre, herrings, eels, both with sauce; fried fish; lentils, tasteless in themselves. In the library; where I found Maffeus's de Historia Indicá: Promontorium flectere, to double the Cape. I parted very tenderly from the Prior and Friar Wilkes.
“Maitre des Arts, 2 y.-Bacc. Theol. 3 y.—Licentiate, 2 y.-Doctor Th. 2 y. in all 9 years. For the Doctorate three disputations, Major, Minor, Sarbonica. -Several colleges suppressed, and transferred to that which was the Jesuits' College.
"Wednesday, Nov. 1. We left Paris.-St. Denis, a large town; the church not very large, but the middle aisle is very lofty and awful.-On the left are chapels built beyond the line of the wall, which destroy the symmetry of the sides. The organ is higher above the pavement than any I have ever seen.— The gates are of brass.-On the middle gate is the history of our Lord.—The painted windows are historical, and said to be eminently beautiful.-We were at another church belonging to a convent, of which the portal is a dome; we could not enter further, and it was almost dark.
Thursday, Nov. 2. We came this day to Chantilly, a seat belonging to the Prince of Condé.-This place is eminently beautified by all varieties of waters starting up in fountains, falling in cascades, running in streams, and spread in lakes. The water seems to be too near the house.-All this water is brought from a source or river three leagues off, by an artificial canal, which for one league is carried under ground.-The house is magnificent.-The cabinet seems well stocked; what I remember was, the jaws of a hippopotamus, and a young hippopotamus preserved, which, however, is so small, that I doubt its reality. -It seems too hairy for an abortion, and too small for a mature birth.Nothing was in spirits; all was dry.-The dog; the deer; the ant-bear with long snout. The toucan, long broad beak.-The stables were of very great length. The kennel had no scents.-There was a mockery of a village. The menagerie had few animals.-Two faussans,2 or Brazilian weasels, spotted, very wild. There is a forest, and I think, a park.-I walked till I was very weary, and next morning felt my feet battered, and with pains in the toes.
for the two editions of the "Catholicon," which Dr. Johnson mentions here, with names which I cannot make out, I read "one by Latinius, one by Boedinus." I have deposited the original MS. in the British Museum, where the curious may see it. My grateful acknowledgments are due to Mr. Planta for the trouble he was pleased to take in aiding my researches.— BOSWELL.
1 The writing is so bad here, that the names of several of the animals could not be deciphered without much more acquaintance with natural history than I possess. Dr. Blagden, with his usual politeness, most obligingly examined the MS. To that gentleman, and to Dr. Gray, of the British Museum, who also very readily assisted me, I beg leave to express my best thanks.-BOSWELL.
2 It is thus written by Johnson, from the French pronunciation of fossane. It should be observed, that the person who showed this menagerie was mistaken in supposing the fossane and the Brazilian.weazel to be the same, the fossane being a different animal, and a native of Madagascar. I find them, however, upon one plate in Pennan's "Synopsis of Quadrupeds."— BOSWELL.