many untrue romances), who, despite rumors to the contrary, have not yet quite died out. In the Quartier they still remember Paul Verlaine, the great poet whose life was such an extraordinarily tawdry tragedy, and on the pavement of the Boul' Mich one may still meet curiously long-bearded young men clothed in picturesque corduroy trousers which bulge at the knees and fit very tightly round the ankles. One can dine excellently in the Quartier Latin at the Café Harcourt, now quite a fashionable restaurant; at the Taverne du Pan théon; and person ally I have a habit, when on the all too rare occasions nowadays I cross to fair "Lutetia," to dine in the evening at one of the two places I have mentioned and to go on after dinner to the Concert Rouge, where one pays two francs to sit in rather a stuffy little room and listen to a most admirable classical concert performed by an exquisitely balanced orchestra -the two francs entitling one also to a glass of beer. It

which is the main street of the Montmartre quarter. Montmartre is essentially the night district of modern Paris. On the road north one passes the Casino de Paris, the scene of periodic elaborate fancy dress balls much more artificial and much more interesting than the dances at the Bullier on the other side.

of the Seine. At Montmartre itself there are the wellknown all-night cafés, the Tabarin, the Rat Mort, the Rabelais, and others, and a whole collection of dull and vulgar places of amusement mainly existing for the benefit of tourists. The Moulin Rouge, which for a generation has been quoted

as a typical place of Paris "fast" life, and at its best was dreadfully boring, has been turned into a music hall, but remains far less distinctively Parisian than La Cigale, in its near neighborhood, which is essentially French, and the curious Cabaret des Quat'z Arts, where in a low room at the back of a Teutoniclooking café half a dozen poets sing their own compositions night after night to crowded and appreciative audiences. The little Boite à Fursy, which used to be known to fame as the Chat Noir, is also a very distinctive place of amusement, where the entertainment, while it would hardly pass the public approval in the United States, has distinct artistic merit.

always seems to me that this little concert-room, which is nothing more than a café, and which is jammed with people every night all the year round, is a striking evidence of the art enthusiasm which exists among the Parisians.

More interesting perhaps in these days than even the Quartier Latin is the district of Montmartre, reached by going north up the hill either by way of the Rue Blanche or the Rue Pigalle until one reaches the Boulevard de Clichy,

Montmartre is indeed an intensely fascinating quarter, because it supplies in brief an epitome of modern Paris. In the streets to the north of the Boulevard

THE BOURSE

RUE ROYALE, LOOKING ACROSS THE PLACE DE LA CONCORDE TO THE CHAMBER OF DEPUTIES AND THE HOTEL DES INVALIDES

Clichy and in the immense houses on the Boulevard itself live artists, journalists, musicians, actors, and actresses, with a very large sprinkling of foreigners to accent the inevitable cosmopolitan note. Round about are innumerable places of entertainment, some, as I have suggested, better to be avoided, others highly interesting from many points of view. In its cafés in the daytime one may lunch and dine cheaply and well, while a few hours afterwards, when night has settled down, in the same establishments one may pay ruinous prices for unsatisfactory suppers. And cheek by

jowl with respectable, well-conducted restaurants one can find evil-looking drinking-shops, the haunts of those reckless criminals who are the curse of modern Paris, and whose murderous junketings are frequently carried out under the shadows of the trees in the Boulevard de Clichy itself.

It is obviously impossible in the limits. of a necessarily short article to describe in any detail the joys of a city which could only, as a matter of fact, be incorporated into words by the greatest of literary artists. Possibly an effective way of giving some idea of what Paris