16

THE LADY'S LEISURE HOUR.

ANTI-MACASSAR, OR D'OYLEY, IN VENETIAN GUIPURE.

BY MRS. PULLAN.

MATERIALS. The point-lace cottons of Messrs. Walter Evans & Co., of Derby, with Netting Needles and Meshes.

THE great progress that has been made in ornamental needlework during the last few years, is an illustration-were one required of the truth of the axiom, that there is nothing new under the sun. In fact, to attain perfection, we must return to the steps of our ancestors, and content ourselves with imitating those marvels of art which it is vain for us to hope to surpass.

The specimen of work we now give, is of a sort presented for the first time to English ladies. Many hundreds of years ago, this kind of work was much patronised by the ladies of Italy, Spain, and Portugal. Intermingled with the open muslin work which we now term Broderie Anglaise, it used to be formed into counterpanes and other large articles, toilet-covers, and draperies, and almost every sort of trimming. It was done in small squares, which were alternated with squares of Mecklin, or embroidered linen, and formed a sort of patchwork.

In many of the royal palaces and houses of the nobility, state beds are even now decorated with counterpanes of Venetian guipure, which have descended as treasured heirlooms from many generations.

Venetian Guipure is a kind of Point, the foundation of which is done in netting, on which beautiful and elaborate stitches are worked. By a mode of working we shall presently describe, the mesh of the netting forms a square, instead of a diamond. A netted Border is added.

The size of a piece of netting depends on the mesh employed in working it. In Guipure, the squares must be decidedly large to show the stitches off to advantage. Each should not be less than halfan-inch square. We have selected a design for our first number which is capable of being increased to any size that may be desired; and we would suggest, that for the cot of an infant's bassinet, nothing could be more beautiful than a coverlet of guipure over a wadded quilt.

Square netting is done thus:-Make a foundation of any number of stitches, and work on it backwards and forwards, in the common netting stitch, leaving the last loop of every row, until one stitch only is left. Observe that the first row of this triangular piece is made with a mesh rather smaller than is used for the remainder. Cut off the foundation and open the knots of the first row, using that row as the foundation for another half, which must be worked in a precisely similar manner. This will form a square of netting. Before attempting to darn it, wash it well, stiffen it a very little, and pin it out, in the square form, which when dry, it will retain. Take it on a piece of toile ciré, and darn it. The netting is done in No. 1 Evans's Mecklenburgh Thread. The same must be used for the edging. The finer cottons are to be used for the stitches, varying them as the engraving indicates a coarse or a fine thread. The stitches are so clearly indicated in the engraving, that they will be most easily worked by its aid. Where diagonal bars are seen crossing the squares, they are to be worked first, as they are designed to support the stitches, which are principally darned in different directions, with rounds in buttonhole stitch.

In counting netting, every knot is considered as a stitch. For this pattern, any number of stitches divisible by eight, with three over, will do for the foundation.

The Edging. With a mesh twice the width of the one used for the centre, do seven stitches in every other loop of the edge all round, except at the corners, when it must be done in every loop three times. Take the other mesh, and do six stitches over five all round, missing the space between, which forms a long stitch. Then five on six, four on five, three on four, and two on three, which being the last round, finishes the Edging as seen in the engraving.

For a Bread-Cloth or D'Oyley the cotton must be finer and the meshes smaller, No. 80 Mecklenburgh will do for the ground, and the darned stitches must be done in the finest cottons.

The set of point-lace cottons contains fourteen sizes-cotton, linen, and Moravian; they are made up in skeins for the benefit of country friends, and will be sent post free, for 3s. 6d., by Mrs. Pullan, 126, Albany Street, Regent's Park, London.

His good humour-for he was nevertheless a good-humoured man-returned when he had satisfied his hunger, and when the cloth was removed, and he was tired of spinning a half-crown on the table to amuse little Georgie, he kissed the children all round, and tapping his wife gently on the cheek, said, "Good bye, Lizzie, I am going to the theatre; I dare say you will be glad to get rid of me as it is washing day;" and, without waiting for her reply, he left the room. The next minute Lizzie heard the street-door bang, while the measured step of her husband, which she heard distinctly as he passed the window, was soon lost in the noise of the children.

"The longest of lanes has a turning, they say,

And there must be an end to the longest day.' Bed-time-the children's bed-time, that happiest hour of the whole twenty-four for those who are nurses as well as mothers, came at last, and Mrs. Brown was left alone by her solitary fireside, to resume her usual evening employment of darning stockings and socks, and to wonder why young ladies spent so much time in learning to dance and play on the piano, when they have no. time after they are married for any thing but to nurse children and darn stockings! But poor Mrs. Brown's troubles for the evening were not over, although the children were all asleep. She had not been long busied with her monotonous occupation when Jane, the servant-of-all-work, brought up the tea. "Please, mum," she said, as she put down the tea-tray, "I wish you'd suit yourself by this day month; I'm going to leave."

"To leave, Jane ?" said Mrs. Brown, "why is that? I thought you were comfortable, that you liked your master and me, and the place?"

"So I do like master and you, ma'am, but I can't stand this here washing no longer. It puts everything out of sorts." Mrs. Brown could not but acknowledge to herself that Jane was right-the washing did put every thing out of sorts; however, as Mrs. Brown did not see how matters could be arranged differently, she merely replied, "Very well, Jane, then you will leave this day month."

While the tea was yet on the table, a double knock was heard at the door. For a moment Mrs. Brown thought it might be her

husband, who, having changed his mind, had returned. She listened, but did not hear the well-known scrape of the shoes, and when Jane had opened the door, she recognised the voice of her near neighbour, Mrs. Collins.

"I'm glad you are alone, Mrs. Brown," said the latter; "my husband is gone out of town for a few days. So I thought I would come and pass half an hour with you, if you were disengaged."

"I am quite disengaged, Mrs. Collins, and very glad to see you. I'm quite alone, too; for Mr. Brown, who hates 'washingday,' is gone to the theatre. And, to tell the truth, on these occasions I am so tired by the time night comes, that I am but poor company, as you will find. Today we have had a chapter of accidents; besides, I am not a little vexed on another account. Jane, who is a very good servant, and suits me very well, has just given me notice to leave, because she, too, does not like 'washing-day.' Now Mrs. Collins, you are an old housekeeper, do tell me how you manage. Do you wash at home?"

"No, my dear, we put our washing out."

"I wish we could afford to do so; how much trouble and worry I should save!"

"If we speak only of the actual cost of the washing," said Mrs. Collins, "perhaps we cannot afford that better than you; but when we take all the other things into the account, I think if we do not actually save by putting the washing out, we do not lose."

"What do you mean by other things?" anxiously inquired Mrs. Brown.

"

"I reckon in this way,' said Mrs. Collins. "By washing at home, you save about one-third of the expense; but then, to balance this advantage, you are obliged on the washing-day to give up almost the services of your two servants in order that they may assist in the washing; while you are forced to take the entire charge of the children for the whole day, which is a great fatigue; besides, the house smells all day of soap-suds, and the reek of the copper, and the kitchen is full. of wet clothes. Mr. Brown gets a cold make-shift sort of dinner, and you are too much fatigued with nursing the children to talk to him, and so, as he cannot be,

happy at home, he goes out to seek comfort, or, at least, amusement, abroad. But this is not all; you are obliged to hire a woman to wash, and this person passes her life in going from family to family, fetching and carrying all the news and gossip; telling your servants 'they do so and so in this family, so and so in that; that Mrs. Black or Mrs. White gives her servants such and such wages, besides tea and sugar, and beer, and a holiday once a month; and for her part she would not stay anywhere where she could not have her holiday, and as many followers as she pleased.' So the servants, thinking they are not so well off as their neighbours, become unsettled and leave, and I should not wonder if something of this kind was at the bottom of Jane's leaving.

"I think that is more than probable,"

said Mrs. Brown.

"Parting with servants is always more or less expensive," continued Mrs. Collins. "In the first place, there is a little more given on leaving than the actual wages; then the mistress's time is taken up in inquiring after a new servant; and the old servant's work is neglected while she is out looking for a place. Then there is the uncertainty whether the new servant will suit or not, and also the time taken up in teaching her the work. And, lastly, to the inhabitants of a great city, there is a loss of health in washing at home, for the clothes that we dry either in close yards, or, what is too frequently the case, on account of bad weather and the blacks, by the fire, are not purified by the fresh air; so that, compared with the clothes which are dried in the pure country air, they want that freshness and sweetness for which clothes washed in the country are remarkable, and which are so conducive to health. Perhaps, as in your own case, we should add to all these items the sums spent at the theatre and other places of amusement by husbands who find their homes uncomfortable. I do not say, my dear, you do not do everything you can to counteract the annoyances incident to a 'washing day;' neither do I justify men for spending money in idle pleasures, while they leave their wives to toil and work at home; but it becomes a question whether the sums paid for going to places of amusement, without reckoning

19.

all the other items I have mentioned, would not, in most cases, pay the extra expense of putting out the washing. I have tried both, I assure you, and all things considered, I think it cheaper to put out the washing. There is no objection, if you: think proper, to wash the 'fine things' at home, because these can be got up without trespassing much on the time of the servants, and without additional help; but you know, if the 'fine things' have not a little fresh air now and then, they will soon look yellow."

Mrs. Brown reflected for a short time. "Well, my dear Mrs. Collins," she said at last, "I believe you are right; I will send my washing into the country-I am sure of Mr. Brown's consent, for he hates 'washing days,' and so do I. And perhaps, when Jane knows the washing is to be put out, she will be willing to remain, and so I shall avoid the trouble and expense of changing servants. I will ring and ask her."

"No, my dear," said the cautious Mrs. Collins, putting her hand on Mrs. Brown's arm, that was extended towards the bell; "Jane, like yourself, is tired to-night, and perhaps she is not in the best humour ; wait till morning, when a good night's rest will have restored her serenity. sides, you have not yet obtained Mr. Brown's consent to your new arrange ment. But my half-hour is expired, I must wish you good night, and return to my now solitary home."

Be

"Good night, my dear Mrs. Collins, and many thanks for your good advice, upon which I will act immediately; and I trust that, by following it, I shall have more comfort, if not exactly a saving in pocket."

[In the sayings and doings of "The Washing Day," we find faithfully pourtrayed the events that characterised that unpleasant period in the family of the Browns; and our readers will readily picture to themselves the happy change that ensued upon removing the cause of so much discomfort, in which master, mistress, children, and servants were concerned; and if we are not mistaken, some of our fair correspondents will, ere long, favour us with their "yeas and nays" on a subject engaging so much of their "Home Thoughts." Ed. H. T.]